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What Did You Buy Today?

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BGHansen

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Picked up a 7" riser block for my Bridgeport. Gonna make the tightening and loosening the draw bar a step stool job, but have plans on making a power draw bar anyhow. Next step will be picking up some 13" 1/2"-13 grade 8 bolts. Then will pull the head/ram with my gantry crane and let my BP stand tall(er) and proud. Gonna be nice to get the table up to a higher working height. I was close to bottoming the table with a Kurt swivel vise, ER32 collet chuck and a co-ax indicator mounted.

Bruce
 

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Bamban

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Did not buy today, but the 1st time to use it today when I set the SBL 13. It is a handy guy, a very heavy one. It was listed on CL for 200, I offered 100, seller took it. It maybe overpriced, but I think it is better built than those $120 Chinese specials on eBay.
 

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Atlascycle

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Wow, does that have servos on both the quill and the knee?
Larry,
the knee is manual, I hope to have in in my shop by the weekend. it weighs in at 4000# and my shop door is only 6'-6" tall

It has a 5hp motor and a cat 40 spindle. Now i need CAT 40 Tool holders!!

Jason
 

firestopper

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So I broke out the Syncrowave 250 DX to set up for welding the aluminum drawer for the Lathe/Mill tooling cart build. When I turned on the power the cooling system blew at the feed line and pissed antifreeze from three places.:mad::mad::mad:.
The weld craft WP-20 torch has fixed cooling lines so cutting and re-crimping was not an option. I called around and found an upgrade (CS310-25) for $584. What the heck, thats stupid money. I asked the young man on the other end of the phone if I could get a break since I had an account with Airgas (used to be Pima welding) since 1989, he giggled and stated that was the year he was born and quickly re quoted a more reasonable price of $288. The CS310-25 is 25' long and the torch itself can be changed out with other types of torches such as swivel or flexable style torches.
I also noticed the filler cap gasket disintegrated upon opening the poly tank. I sucked out the old coolant and small gasket pieces and headed to Airgas. He gave me the coolant at $24/gal. which is ten bucks cheaper than anyone else in town. While I was there, he talked me into trying out some non radio active tungsten (E-3). insidently, Miller doesn't offer the gasket alone and sells the entire filler cap:mad:. I think I have new wrinkles on my forehead after this unscheduled expensive repair.

Todays purchase: The short return hose was not included with the new torch:mad:. The young man noticed the wrinkled forehead and gave it to me:).

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Back in business holding/cerculating coolant.
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Being the cheap Bast%#d I am, I decided to make a new gasket from some 1/8" neoprene rubber I keep on the shelf.
I used a scrap piece of aluminum that had the exact diameter I needed and traced it with a razor blade.
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Punched the center out as its a vented cap.
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The jury is still out on the new E-3 Tungsten. I ran four open corner test pieces and played with the balance (clean/penetration) adjustment.
The numbers are the setting for each weld. .100" aluminum, filler rod .063" E-3 Tungsten 1/16" and 75 amps.
I normally use 2% Lanthanated Tungsten. Its a good stable all around electrode.
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I'm a Knucklehead, It turns out I only had ONE aluminum filler rod. I took a quick glance prior to heading over to Airgas and saw a full sleeve of shiny rod, Turns out it was Stainless filler rod:mad:. Lots of mad faces today, but tomorrows a new day;).
Keep the shiny side up.
Paco
 

richl

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Supplies,:encourage:
Getting ready to demo another wall, sheet rock, 6" studs, Osb plywood, insulation
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Another group of projects I'll be working on, handle for the mill, a number of handles for the lathe. The 10"x1 1/2" aluminium plate is for the rotary table to mount the 8" chuck to, it cost 25.00 on ebay and not much to ship, the 2"x12" round is for the knobs and dials on my mill and lathe

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rzbill

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Argghhh! I was scanning craigslist today and saw a Volstro in the Raleigh area. Used to use one in the 80's.
Of course it was mounted to a Bridgeport. I don't have a BP at the house. Doubt I could make it fit. Ratzl Fratzl.....
 

BGHansen

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Picked up a few items from eBay and Grizzly. First was an impulse buy on eBay for a set of LH drill bits. Didn't have any and at $20 including shipping are probably not the greatest, but hopefully won't be a daily use tool anyhow. Curious drill case with the door hinged on the RH side instead of the LH side and the large bits to the front instead of the back. Could be my imagination, but I'm used to seeing hinge on the LH side and the smaller bits to the front. Maybe a designed in error proofing so you don't grab them by mistake. The bits look sharp and at least have the tips ground in the right direction.

Nice surprise when the $100 including shipping off eBay Blake co-ax box got opened. It had the spring-loaded center finding attachment under the Blake itself. Around $40 for that piece alone. I have a Shars which works, but it's off and when I'm on center still fluctuates about 0.010" on the dial. Checked it by spot drilling a hole with the table locked, then inserted the Shars in a collet; should be dead on center. Put the center finding attachment in the spot drilled hole and had the 0.010" wobble. Initially thought my spindle was bad, but it does the same thing on my Jet mill, Bridgeport, drill press and two BP's at work. We'll see what I get with the Blake. Figured buying the Blake is like the old saying "nobody ever got fired for buying IBM".

Lastly, a DPDT rated at 3 HP 220 V ON/OFF switch from Grizzly that'll end up on my BP. My BP has a static phase converter and is wired so the high/low speed switch is not an ON/OFF switch. The machinist I bought it from had wired the phase converter with a DPDT regular house light toggle switch. It works fine, but just looks "cheesy" to me. Need to mount this in an electrical box and screw it to the phase converter; POTD in a day or two.

Bruce

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GoceKU

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Today i visited couple of tool makets, there was a lot old machinist tools, but they were all in very bad shape, after looking for hours i only bought this aluminium carpenters knife and this metric tap set with handle, there are couple of decent taps, the rest are only good for cleaning treads.
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xman_charl

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bought 7 of these from surplus center, $7 dollars each.
1 inch dia on big end.
checked it out on my lathe and welder, welds and machines okay..
think axels are 4130, seems a little harder than 1102
use will be mainly for arbors on my lathes

axel surplus center.JPG axel surplus center.JPG






Charl
 

bfk

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Vintage Sears Craftsman Kromedge Tap and Die set. Gentleman was downsizing, said he bough it new and only used it twice. Looks new. Date on the booklet is 1978. Says it's "Tool Steel", but it's hard enough to defy my files. $80. IMG_2168.jpg IMG_2169.jpg
Saw The Mentor at a church sale, History of Iron and Steel from 1918. Another dollar squandered.
 

hman

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Durn! You've got a much better Habitrail store than I've seen, either in Oregon or here in the Phoenix area. Congrats!!!
 

firestopper

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I placed a bid on publicsurpluss.com for a Chicago Dries&Krump 72" finger brake rated for 14 gauge mild steel. Well I won the bid and headed to Gilbert Az this morning after shift. I took some cribbing and rigging items to get the heavy brake loaded onto the dump trailer. The guy was kind enough to use their forklift but reminded me that its up to the buyer to arrange moving and loading. The brake was already outside when I arrived and I noticed they had forked it from the bottom portion of the upper beam clamp:(. The upper clamp came loose from the rear adjuster, nothing appeared to be bent on visual but damn that was a dumb move. I removed all the fingers and lighten the load a little, Then rigged it with soft straps and shackles and finally a rigging chain. I ran a solid 2" X 3" bar across the forks and used large C-clamps to secure the rig. The rigging chain has two hooks on each end and opposite of the hooks the chain (welded 3/8") terminated into a large 5/8" welded oval. The bar was run through the oval allowing the chains to be shortened through the shackles and hooked to the oval. The sides on the trailer are tall and his forklift was a single stage mast.
Once loaded I used all of the larger straps I normally carry on the truck. I also brought a bunch of edge protectors to keep the load from coming loose for the 130 mile ride home.

Here you can see the rear portion (mouse hole) that should rest or straddle the large adjusting round bar. You can also notice the rather large gap between the upper beam clamp and the bending apron. The big A$$ threaded rod that connects to the clamping lever is what prevented complete separation. Nothing was cracked, bent or damaged to the naked eye but I was very disappointed as I own the machine since yesterday. The bad thing about actions is once you pay thats it, done deal. The right rear crank lever is bent and the left lever is makeshift POS.
I did not express my displeasure with the way the machine was moved out , but after he saw it rigged and hanging ready for the trailer he realized he's is a bonehead. So the machine need some TLC, but I know a guy;). The ride home was long as I was on 2-2.5 hours of sleep from a busy night, any way she's home now. Too tired to unload it today, it will have to wait until Thursday morning after shift.
The fingers where loaded into the truck bed on a rubber matt to keep them from getting dinged up.
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Made it home.
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The fingers are in remarkable shape for an old machine. I only noticed one (6") finger that had evidence of some knucklehead bending rod, other wise a beautiful 1/8" radius on all fingers.
It looks like Its short one 2" finger, not bad. The fingers are worth some money.
4-2",2-3",2-4",3-5" and 4-6" fingers. The surface rust will come off rather easy. The lone 1" finger looks shop made.
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My plan is to unload the machine and reconnect the upper beam and check operation and bend quality. I'm hoping nothing is "sprung" and any fine tuning can be achieved with the three tensioning members and shims. If it proves not to be a boat anchor, I will completely tear it apart, sand blast and repaint. I will also upgrade the rear cranks.
Worst case scenario, I could sell the fingers and make money for my efforts as fingers are hard to come by, but I'm hoping for the best outcome.
Gona give Dreis&Krump a call tomorrow and see what the serial number reveals. Also check on a IPB and manual.
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Close up of the upper section that need to be reseated to the adjuster.
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Sorry for the long story, but everyone should know how to pick/lift a brake:).
Paco
 
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firestopper

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Nice Paco, what do those go for out there ?.
Thanks dlane,
I got into a bidding war (sort of) with some pawn shop. My max bid (proxy style bidding) was $1599.99. I was limited to four crappy photos and didn't have the time to drive out to Gilbert to preview (by appointment only) prior to bidding so I took a chance.
Heres the actual screen shot of the results. It came close to my max bid.
I did have to pay tax (the man always gets his:bang head: ) and a processing fee. total was $1560.86 and $25.00 in diesel:confused:.
fullsizeoutput_600.jpeg

I'm very hopeful its not "sprung" and when its all said and done should be worth $6-8K (with some TLC). It should compliment the 8' x 12 gauge leaf brake we have. Used equipment in AZ fetch a bit of dough due to zero rust issues.
 

richl

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I should have put a tape next to it when I took the picture, it's a beast!!! Even after tax and shipping it was less than 100.00 I am completely thrilled with this purchase
 

Alan H

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Received two Germans and a Chinese (EDIT) Taiwanese today. All brand new and never put on a spindle. Bought the package deal on ebay for a nice price.

The Albrecht 100-J2 and the Roehm Supra-1 are really nice and are 3/8" capacity. They are smooth as glass and will be used for small bits since both they start at zero. Of course the Albrecht is at the top of the heap. I will use the Albrecht in my mill for small bits and the Roehm in my lathe.

Wasn't that familiar with Roehm but it appears to be a solid player and it has the quick action which I like.

Not sure where the Golden Goose will land. It is not a bad chuck just not in the same league as the other two. BTW, I assumed it is Chinese. Could be Taiwanese for all I know. EDIT: Golden Goose is made in Taiwan.

chucks.jpg
 
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richl

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I placed a bid on publicsurpluss.com for a Chicago Dries&Krump 72" finger brake rated for 14 gauge mild steel. Well I won the bid and headed to Gilbert Az this morning after shift. I took some cribbing and rigging items to get the heavy brake loaded onto the dump trailer. The guy was kind enough to use their forklift but reminded me that its up to the buyer to arrange moving and loading. The brake was already outside when I arrived and I noticed they had forked it from the bottom portion of the upper beam clamp:(.

My plan is to unload the machine and reconnect the upper beam and check operation and bend quality. I'm hoping nothing is "sprung" and any fine tuning can be achieved with the three tensioning members and shims. If it proves not to be a boat anchor, I will completely tear it apart, sand blast and repaint. I will also upgrade the rear cranks.
Sorry for the long story, but everyone should know how to pick/lift a brake:).
Paco
A machine in the approximate size and visual condition is for sale in my local craigslist, 3300.00, they don't come up too often around here, this one is probably a bit more pricey than typical. I think you got a good deal, even if you have to part it out
 

T Bredehoft

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Local auction. For three dollars I bought "foot warmer", a piece of soap stone, 12" by 12" by 1" thick. It will eventually be cut down to make a small 'oven" for heat treating. I can heat a tool inside it with an oxy acetylene torch, it will contain the heat making much quicker heating. With the added features of no fires and no oxidizing.
 

BGHansen

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Received a 13 pc. set of R-8 collets bought new off eBay for a touch over $50 delivered. U.S.A. seller, no doubt made in China. Only checked a couple for run-out so far, > 0.0004" on the 3/8" and 1/2" using a spotting drill for the test rod.

Bruce

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GoceKU

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Today i had some time so i visited couple of tool markets, i was looking for an used caliper but they were all stuck or rusted so i decided there on the spot to give this china digital caliper a try, also bought this led headlamp and couple of good quality threading taps, they were expensive but should last more.
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dlane

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Bear, I'm guessing u didn't buy them they were free, nice co worker.
 
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