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What Did You Buy Today?

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WoodBee

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When they painted over the gunk did they use an old carpet or. like they did on mine, did they use a dead dog?

Dave H. (the other one)
What, they killed a dog to paint your lathe [emoji33]
I hope they at least got the hairs out of the paint [emoji6]
 

BGHansen

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Had a package show up from Shars; 24" single axis stainless steel scale/DRO that's headed to my Bridgeport. My other vertical mill has a TPACtools 4-axis DRO on it and I've become accustomed to using the heck out of the Z-axis scale. If facing off something, I mic the thickness to start with, run the table until the tool just about touches, then drop the spindle until the tool just touches. Then set the Z-axis to the thickness of the material and make passes until I'm close to the final thickness. Do a re-measurement and make the last pass.

My Bridgeport has a circa 1984 Anilam 2-axis CNC set up with no Z-axis scale, so, Shars got some business. Appears to be a couple of different scales out there; this one ran just over $100 with shipping. Shars also sells one for about half that price. I couldn't see any obvious differences, but went with the more expensive one anyhow. It's supposed to be accurate within 0.002" in the 24" range, and is IP54 certified for dust and water penetration. I don't know how the technology works as it doesn't have a rack/pinion like a caliper, or a glass scale. It says the scale is embedded in the stainless steel scale. I know the quill scale on my Jet mill has a friction wheel that runs on the scale.

I'll mount the scale to the side of the column, but won't get it installed until another order shows up. Ordered a Z-axis power feed for the Bridgeport also. Hence, no Z-axis scale until that arrives and is installed. Have only owned the Bridgeport for 2 weeks and am already complaining about cranking the table up/down. The unit comes with mounting brackets for hooking the sliding reader to the knee, but I'll fab up my own once the Z-power feed shows up. It does let you set the scale to any number so I'll be able to use it like my TPAC DRO although the digit setting is a little cumbersome.

Oh, love the instruction sheet. Wish me luck on installing my "Digital Scale with Steel Deam".

Bruce

20170928_160231.jpg 20170928_161631.jpg 20170928_161637.jpg
 

GoceKU

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Today after work i got a call from one of the machinery dealers that i visited earlier in the week, telling me he has acquired an pristine machine in my price range, i turned around and was there in half an hour, and straight from the door i was disappointed, it was only a small horizontal mill with so much play in the side screw that was skipping and the table look like it was used like a target on the firing range, the seller quickly figure out what mistake he has made so he gifted me those two end mills and on my way back i stopped by a hardware shop and bought one more blow gun, two garages on blow gun makes for a lot of walking.
DSC_0022.JPG DSC_0014.JPG
 
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darkzero

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Got me a practically brand new set of Mitutoyo gauge blocks for an awesome price! $1400 new, paid $350 shipped.

View attachment 241904
Ebay flash sale. My Mitu set is too nice to be used for everything so I got me a beater set. Made in China but brand new, grade AS-2. The Mitu set is AS-1. Pretty nice for only $65 shipped!


20170929_133136.jpg
 

retrojoe

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Worked out a deal with a gentleman who was trying to get rid of the last of his father's estate. 269 arbor-mount cutters and enough inserts to last me a few lifetimes. A lot of the arbor-mount cutters are much, much too big for me but the agreement was I took them all for 1 price. He had some LARGE end mills as well but I didn't want to deal with more tools I couldn't use myself. Now I need to track down holders for the inserts; I could only find 1 parting holder.

His father was a machine repairman for Rockwell/Allen-Bradley as well as a mechanic. When he died his home-shop had two mills and 5 lathes. It's taken his son 5 years to sell through the last of his stuff.

 

retrojoe

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Retrojoe, that a lot of cutters and inserts, you'll be spoiled for choice.
The largest cutter is 10" in diameter with a 1.5" arbor. My poor little Atlas mill can only handle 4" dia cutters. I'll try to unload the largest of them and save anything about 6" and smaller. I know I'll get a larger mill at some point but I just can't fathom needing a 10" x 1" tool (that's intended for aluminum only at that). Glancing at ebay it looks like I'm not the only one; these might take a while to move.
 

FOMOGO

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Those cutters all appear to be in excellent, or new condition. Really nice score. Mike
 

Lordbeezer

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Did some trading today and ended up with three more lathes for winter projects.early 10" Sheldon KS model with older dc motor and control box..model c south bend and counter shaft Assy.missing tailstock.rusty.Dalton type B lot 4 .think 1918 model with change gears.all need some love and a bath..also 11" Sheldon stripped underdrive cabinet with bed..gotta take some pictures.wife says I'm a lathe whore..have 6 to clean up..never had more than 1 or 2..
 

fernballan

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Alan H

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Ebay flash sale. My Mitu set is too nice to be used for everything so I got me a beater set. Made in China but brand new, grade AS-2. The Mitu set is AS-1. Pretty nice for only $65 shipped!


View attachment 242946
Will, you have a good ref. for all the various grades? Grade 2 vs 3, AS1 vs Grade 3?
 

retrojoe

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Sound like a good excuse for a mill upgrade
Would that I could. My current workshop packs in two motorcycles (mine); two Austrian mopeds (girlfriend's); my zero turn lawn mower (plus accessories); my floor drill press; a table saw (Unisaw); grinder; 12" disc sander plus assorted other items. All in a space about 10' x 25'. The Atlas has the benefit of easily fitting in my basement near my equally compact 7x14 mini lathe.

I'm working on a garage and workshop design that will not only provide me with all of the space I need but also free up about 1/4 acre of land that is wasted due to the poor placement of my current garage. But first, I have a daughter arriving in December and I'm afraid but, happy, that she will postpone everything.
 

Zathros

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Would that I could. My current workshop packs in two motorcycles (mine); two Austrian mopeds (girlfriend's); my zero turn lawn mower (plus accessories); my floor drill press; a table saw (Unisaw); grinder; 12" disc sander plus assorted other items. All in a space about 10' x 25'. The Atlas has the benefit of easily fitting in my basement near my equally compact 7x14 mini lathe.

I'm working on a garage and workshop design that will not only provide me with all of the space I need but also free up about 1/4 acre of land that is wasted due to the poor placement of my current garage. But first, I have a daughter arriving in December and I'm afraid but, happy, that she will postpone everything.
Glad My kids spread their wings à couple of years ago.
What you’re affraid for happened to me.

On the other hand I Recomended to see it as à challenge, it Will make life more beareble. I tried to make the kids aware that life cannot be always only them. And i always Pulles them in My diy work. Now they are Very self sufficiënt something I see slowly fade away with Lots of their age.
As for the space Well we dutch are Very good in rearranging small spaces to be Very usable and economic. We have to.

I had à few maten over from the states and Canada and they were all surprised how we handle space in general and often Very surprised how I managed that.

Grts.
Ted2


Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk Pro
 

darkzero

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Will, you have a good ref. for all the various grades? Grade 2 vs 3, AS1 vs Grade 3?
Alan, nope not really. I just briefly looked at Wiki when I was buying my sets. It covers the basic equivalents. In the end I don't care much really. I'm just a hobby guy so I don't need the highest grades, price was more important to me. Those high grades get pretty expensive!

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gauge_block#Grades
 

Alan H

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Thanks Will, the wiki page is helpful, thanks. To be honest, I had seen that but didn't look at it deeply enough so thanks for causing me to do so.

I am trying to decide what level to spend. As you point out, I am not sure a hobbyist needs too much.

Obviously the Mitutoyo are nicer than the cheapies. Their hardness is such that a lightly used set may well be worth the incremental cost as compared to something like a new Shars set. You can buy an 81 piece Shars set for~$90 delivered and that may be a fine solution. BTW, the Shars set is a Grade B.
 

darkzero

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Thanks Will, the wiki page is helpful, thanks. To be honest, I had seen that but didn't look at it deeply enough so thanks for causing me to do so.

I am trying to decide what level to spend. As you point out, I am not sure a hobbyist needs too much.

Obviously the Mitutoyo are nicer than the cheapies. Their hardness is such that a lightly used set may well be worth the incremental cost as compared to something like a new Shars set. You can buy an 81 piece Shars set for~$90 delivered and that may be a fine solution. BTW, the Shars set is a Grade B.
When I was looking to buy my second set I was looking at either the HFS set or the CME set. The HFS set is the exact same one that Shars sells without the Shars name on it. I don't mind some Shars products but if I can find the same product without their branding on it I'd rather go with out their name on it. The HFS set is just slightly more at $89.99 shipped compared to $87.95 shipped for the Shars.

The CME set has slighty better tolerance, 50 millionths for the Shars/HFS, 30 millionths for the CME. I really didn't care since I have the Mitu set but with the nudge from a buddy here, it was a no brainer to get the CME set as it was also $10 cheaper, $79.50 shipped. I waited for a flash sale & got it for $64.50 shipped.

I've been waiting very patiently for a nice set of gauge blocks to pop up that I liked. Finally scored on the Mitu set. But it was too nice! If you're anything like me, if you find a nice set, you might just end up wanting to baby them too much & buy a second set like I did! Maybe I probably should have just bought the CME set to begin with & called it a day. :) (nah)
 

woodchucker

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When I was looking to buy my second set I was looking at either the HFS set or the CME set. The HFS set is the exact same one that Shars sells without the Shars name on it. I don't mind some Shars products but if I can find the same product without their branding on it I'd rather go with out their name on it. The HFS set is just slightly more at $89.99 shipped compared to $87.95 shipped for the Shars.

The CME set has slighty better tolerance, 50 millionths for the Shars/HFS, 30 millionths for the CME. I really didn't care since I have the Mitu set but with the nudge from a buddy here, it was a no brainer to get the CME set as it was also $10 cheaper, $79.50 shipped. I waited for a flash sale & got it for $64.50 shipped.

I've been waiting very patiently for a nice set of gauge blocks to pop up that I liked. Finally scored on the Mitu set. But it was too nice! If you're anything like me, if you find a nice set, you might just end up wanting to baby them too much & buy a second set like I did! Maybe I probably should have just bought the CME set to begin with & called it a day. :) (nah)
If you can verify the set, that would be nice. Certs from China don't mean much to me. They just write what they want on some pieces. CME's rep is questionable too. So ring a few of your Mits and CMEs and see if they really are close to spec. Would like to know if they are that good.
 

T Bredehoft

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I was given a set, assembled from Gov't rejects 20 years ago. I couldn't find (with mikes) why they were rejected then, been using them ever since for set up, etc. some won't wring together, but they still mike OK.
 

darkzero

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If you can verify the set, that would be nice. Certs from China don't mean much to me. They just write what they want on some pieces. CME's rep is questionable too. So ring a few of your Mits and CMEs and see if they really are close to spec. Would like to know if they are that good.
Certs from China have never meant anything to me either. I have no way of verifying the tolerance.... so what do you mean, so they are lying & not everything on the internet is true? :p

The quality of them didn't matter to me much cause I have the Mitu set. As long as they wring should be fine for what I need. Price was the most important factor. I've purchased from CME a few times, can't complain on any of the stuff I got from them considering the prices.

Well I hope they wring. I'll test some of them & see how they do.
 

Alan H

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Will, looking forward to the report on the "wringing tests"!

I am curious, why do you dislike Shars' branding?
 
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Bamban

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OK, admiting ignorance, what does "wring" mean as it applies to gauge blocks?
 

darkzero

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Will, looking forward to the report on the "wringing tests"!
So I tested some random pieces. I didn't feel like taking all of them out of their wrappers & cleaning off the protective wax right now.

They wring. A few feel like they don't wring as tight to hold much heavier blocks but that doesn't matter to me. Could be that I just didn't clean them well enough but whatevers. On those ones I had to really align them well & put good pressure on them to wring with that really tight feel like my Mitu ones. But many of them do seem to wring tight. Tight or not, at least all the ones I've tested so far do wring. Plenty good enough for what I bought this import set for & I can't complain for the price. There's a reason why there's sets that cost well over a thousand & much higher. Makes you wonder how they can even sell these for so cheap.

I would say, if you really need gauge blocks for professional or inspection work, buy a quality set & take care of them. Again, I'm just a hobby guy, I could live without them. I'll be using this import set for setup which may not be often as I imagine but now that I have them I may just find myself using them whenever I can.


20171004_130252.jpg
20171004_130654.jpg
 

Alan H

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My brand new Mitutoyo micrometer stand.

mitutoyo chinesium.jpg

Price was too high for Chinesium but the paint job is nice though! I think Mitutoyo is farming the brand a bit on the pricing for these. Glad I bought it on a Zoro flash deal.

mitutoyo chinesium II.jpg
 

woodchucker

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Certs from China have never meant anything to me either. I have no way of verifying the tolerance.... so what do you mean, so they are lying & not everything on the internet is true? :p

The quality of them didn't matter to me much cause I have the Mitu set. As long as they wring should be fine for what I need. Price was the most important factor. I've purchased from CME a few times, can't complain on any of the stuff I got from them considering the prices.

Well I hope they wring. I'll test some of them & see how they do.
you do have a way, consider the mit set your master, test that against your Chinese set. so ring the mit, then do the same for the Chinese set, and validate. do a few different block configs randomly. Don't reuse the same block unless you find your off and want to find out which one.
 

bfk

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A couple of purchases from eBay.
About 30 end mills. All in very good condition, mostly American made, some still with wax coating. A few bullnose a couple v shaped.
About 70 reamers, again mostly American made. At least a dozen countersink, from #6 screw up to too big for my little Sherline. Four expanding types. All seem to have seen little use.
Overall about a buck a piece.
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