Wells-Index 847 Milling Machine - Ownership Thread

[wachuko]

Perhaps not climb mill as much? Or did I misunderstand what happened?

Exactly what happened. So I know it was completely user error.... could have been prevented...

I will measure how much it has in the middle of the table...

 

[woodchucker]

Yes. I emailed them back with photos and clarifying that this was on the X-axis (table) and not on Y-axis (saddle).

Good exercise anyway as I had not measure the stroke on the saddle. Came out to 12". Reduced to 10-3/4" when the vise is in place.




I currently have DRO on X and Y. I did buy a complete set of scales and Yuriy's Touch DRO to replace what I have and have DRO in all axis.

But that does not fix stupid... because I was not aware of the backslash, never tested it for it, I damaged a part I was making when I did the aggressive cutting in the wrong direction... cutter grabbed the part and, well... you all know what happens when you do that. I sure do now!

Not looking for perfection... this is all hobby for me. I just want to minimize my stupid actions having worse consequences because of the wear on some parts of the machine...

An easier fix, I guess, is to move the vise to one of the ends of the table where there is little to no wear. Or/and learn how to avoid cutters pulling the part by not making aggressive cuts.

or, I tighten the locks to put drag on the table. It works well, not perfect. I've been climb milling when I can. I am well aware of things I can do to help make it work. Sometimes I lose, mostly I benefit from it.

 

[wachuko]

or, I tighten the locks to put drag on the table. It works well, not perfect. I've been climb milling when I can. I am well aware of things I can do to help make it work. Sometimes I lose, mostly I benefit from it.

If those were the prices for the travel on Y-axis.... pretty sure the parts for the X-axis are going to be a lot more... might take the same approach you are using. At least until I sell the house and can save for such a big $ticketed item... I know I am going to forget which direction is which when cutting... I just know that I will make the same mistake again... fixing/replacing the actual parts will help me minimize the impact those mistakes have on the piece that I am working on...

But (and I am just writing out loud here) the thing is, I do not do any critical part that can't be redone if I goof up... even if I have to make it several times it will not be thousands of dollars. I just need have extra material for those times when it happens... I will still be ahead, cost wise, than replacing the lead screw and nut...

As you can see, I do try self-talk to get me out of buying parts... I try, but never seems to work. I really like this machine and want to have it as pristine as I can... you know, for the next owner that gets it when I die

 

[toprecyler]

If those were the prices for the travel on Y-axis.... pretty sure the parts for the X-axis are going to be a lot more... might take the same approach you are using. At least until I sell the house and can save for such a big $ticketed item... I know I am going to forget which direction is which when cutting... I just know that I will make the same mistake again... fixing/replacing the actual parts will help me minimize the impact those mistakes have on the piece that I am working on...

But (and I am just writing out loud here) the thing is, I do not do any critical part that can't be redone if I goof up... even if I have to make it several times it will not be thousands of dollars. I just need have extra material for those times when it happens... I will still be ahead, cost wise, than replacing the lead screw and nut...

As you can see, I do try self-talk to get me out of buying parts... I try, but never seems to work. I really like this machine and want to have it as pristine as I can... you know, for the next owner that gets it when I die

One thing to realize too is even if you do replace the thread rod and nut, you will still have some backlash to deal with, unless they designed a different nut that can adjust it out totally. But, these parts will wear. And if you do not use the total length all the same, it will wear more in one area. Just a fact of life for these manual machines.

Unless you go to ball screws which are found on CNC equipment.

But the more you use your mill the more comfortable you will become with it and it will become second nature to know which way to approach cutting a part.

The old story goes, a wealthy successful businessman was asked how he got so successful. “I made good decisions. “. How did he learn to make good decisions? “From making bad ones first”


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[matthewsx]

Probably need to throw a few more parts across the shop before taking it apart to fix it.

John

 

[Firstram]

I would buy (or make) a second nut, and replace the mounting bolts with studs. Make them long enough for jamb nuts and the second nut, instant backlash adjustment!

Hard to tell from the illustration. If it's wide enough, you may be able to cut a slit and add a pinch screw to tighten the thread pitch a little. Free.99!

 

[wachuko]

Got pricing on the parts

“Hi Jaime,
      I'm sorry, thought you were looking for the saddle screw and nut.

      Part # 000-400-457 is the table screw for your mill. Cost is $1427.40 plus shipping
      Part # 111-436-018 is the table lead screw nut. Cost is $368.75 plus shipping

      Shipping to your house would be $102.30.

      Are you locking the table in place prior to making your cuts? If you were making a cut on the Y axis with the side of an endmill, you should always lock your table in place on the X axis. The same would be if you are cutting something along the X axis, the Y axis or saddle should be locked in place. This prevents the workpiece from moving.

      The quill sticking, would be from the grease applied, or the splines being burred up on the end of the spindle. You should always use way oil to lubricate this.

Mark Nielsen
Plant Manager
Wells-Index”

 

[matthewsx]

Got pricing on the parts

“Hi Jaime,
      I'm sorry, thought you were looking for the saddle screw and nut.

      Part # 000-400-457 is the table screw for your mill. Cost is $1427.40 plus shipping
      Part # 111-436-018 is the table lead screw nut. Cost is $368.75 plus shipping

      Shipping to your house would be $102.30.

      Are you locking the table in place prior to making your cuts? If you were making a cut on the Y axis with the side of an endmill, you should always lock your table in place on the X axis. The same would be if you are cutting something along the X axis, the Y axis or saddle should be locked in place. This prevents the workpiece from moving.

      The quill sticking, would be from the grease applied, or the splines being burred up on the end of the spindle. You should always use way oil to lubricate this.

Mark Nielsen
Plant Manager
Wells-Index”

Yep, spendy.

But they have them, and are trying to make sure you're operating the machine properly before taking an order.

Confirms my thoughts, if I were to win the lottery I'd definitely go for a new Wells-Index. Good New American Iron....

John

 

[wachuko]

Yep, spendy.

But they have them, and are trying to make sure you're operating the machine properly before taking an order.

Confirms my thoughts, if I were to win the lottery I'd definitely go for a new Wells-Index. Good New American Iron....

John

Absolutely! They have been extremely helpful during this journey. A great company with outstanding employees indeed. Very fortunate that they are still in business and providing parts for such an old machine.

I am going to tackle the quill. Remove it, clean all that grease I used by mistake, check the splines for any burrs and also check that there are no chips anywhere inside. Oil everything correctly and reassemble... I hope that resolves that issue.