Well This Just Looks Wrong....

I'm pretty sure the original part is Zamak. I'm not sure how well silver soldering would work.
 
BGHansen said:
Could you drill/tap a couple of holes in the gear in line with each other? Then run in a couple of dog point set screws? The end of the dog points would run in the corresponding keyway. Maybe an alternative.

Bruce
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The key way is in the lead screw. The set screw would tend to get caught in the threads.
 
Some of the gears are Zamac and others are steel. I had both versions. Obviously the steel version is easier to repair. I assumed that the steel version was the new release.
 
Spike said:
The part has a spline running end to end inside the bore. Mine is wiped pretty much completely. I found out that Sears offers a new gear but it carries a different part number and I have no idea if it is a match for mine. The page has a good pic though: View attachment 126272

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/cra...051/0009/101/model-10128900/0247/0728000.html
They sure are proud of it though. $200 is a bit much for someone else's machine.
-Spike
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Be careful of what Sears says they can supply-search for any part for anything, and Sears appears on the search list. (as does K-mart, usually)
 
The gear I have is not steel. I wish it was as I could just weld a new spline in. The more I think about it the less I think I want to try to cobble the bad gear to make it work. As it stands now I'm only out the power cross feed. Since it is not my lathe I don't know if I want to sink too much coin it it. If a power cross feed is something I end up wishing I had then I will buy the part to repair it. Thanks for all the replies!
-Spike
 
My bet is if you order part # 341-051 from Clausing it will be all steel and cost somewhere in the vicinity of $150, +/- 20 or 30 bucks. This is the exact replacement for all 10" and 12" model lathes made by Atlas Press Co. that have power cross-feed.

Spiral_Chips
 
do you have enough meat on the gear bit to press it onto a piece of steel pipe the right diameter? Doesn't look like you can bore the gear the whole way through, but there might be enough depth to get a good interference fit (pin it too?). Then you can solder in a key and you're good to go.
 
mattthemuppet said:
do you have enough meat on the gear bit to press it onto a piece of steel pipe the right diameter? Doesn't look like you can bore the gear the whole way through, but there might be enough depth to get a good interference fit (pin it too?). Then you can solder in a key and you're good to go.
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I don't think there is enough room to sleeve the gear since the lead screw runs through the inside and the gear itself spins inside a housing. This weekend I will get with the bud that let me take the lathe and maybe we can work out a deal so it is either mine outright or he will help pay for any repairs it may need.
Thanks for all the input!
-Spike
 
I wasn't being clear enough - cut off the gear end and press that onto a steel sleeve of the right ID and OD
 
Ahhh okay, I can see it now. Cut off the gear itself, bore it to fit a new sleeve? That is an option I had not thought of. Yet another thing to consider, thanks!
-Spike
 
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