Weird orange powder

May be flowers of sulfur used to cut and set vibrating or noise from gears. But if it wasn't removed the same day it was used it keeps cutting, and also destroys the oil seals.
 
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Hi,

I'm new to this forum, so sorry for the late reply...

The orange powder is most likely sawdust. Probably mahogany. In all likely hood, your machine was probably used by a wood worker. Furniture makers will occasionally "mill" parts for tables, chairs, etc.

As a woodworker myself, I have just recently reconditioned a 1953 Bridgeport Vertical Milling Machine and a Troyke BH-12 rotary turntable. Both of these were totally clogged with the stuff.

Sawdust is INSIDIOUS! Especially the kind of hardwoods that are "good" for milling. The dust can be as microscopic as water vapor and oiled parts attract it like bees to honey. It will very quickly abrade and then clog up geared mechanisms.

Hope this helps!

Dave
 
I see that dust whenever I open transmissions or gearboxes. It's metallic fines that settle on the gears via magnetism, and when the oil's antioxidants are expended, the dust rusts. It wipes off with a rag. A flush with any number of fluids would work, but the ATF is a good choice for rubber compatibility and detergents to float the particles away with. Wipe off what you can with a rag before adding fresh service oil.
 
If atf and gear oil are so bad for bronze and brass how come manufacturers in both the automotive industry and the machine tool industry use them?
 
ATF should be fine with yellow metal. It's base oil, clutch plate friction modifiers, and detergents. Auto transmissions don't have bronze parts either, bronze is only used where it is useful.

Gear oil is stanky-stank because of the extreme pressure (EP) sulfur added. Sulfur eats yellow metal. Chlorine EP additives aren't good for it either.

Machine gearboxes are usually spec'd for something like ISO 32 or 68, non-EP, non-detergent oil.

Gearbox oils usually have anti-foam additives as well; those vary by oil manufacturer, but expect them to be there. You may find antioxidants listed in the fine print too. Usually the better the oil (Mobil vs. Sam's Club), the better the premium additive package. Premium additives add up to end of lifespan savings, as the oils work better for longer.

Boils down to three factors: Oil weight/viscosity, EP formulation, and detergent. Weight depends on the system, use the manufacturer's spec (too easy). EP additives are also MFR spec, depends on the type of gears and application. Don't use oil with EP additives unless it's on the lube schedule. You only use detergent in recirculating systems that have good, serviceable filters (not just a sintered filter at the pump), otherwise the grit stays in suspension to wear out your gears. Detergent free oils allow particulates to settle to the bottom and wash out with an oil change.

I think the theme still centers around using the oil (or a correct interchange) specified by the manufacturer on the lube schedule. Cases where you would need to make a guess should be few and far between.
 
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