Using Riser Blocks on Sherline Lathe

Perhaps the later Unimats were zamak but mine is 60s vintage and all cast iron, except for the motor bracket and motor end caps which are aluminum
-Mark
 
Instead of using a chuck to hold the workpiece, how about gluing the workpiece to a large-diameter face plate with epoxy?

I have separated metal pieces that were temporarily joined with epoxy by soaking the bonded pieces in an oven set to 400°F. The epoxy was soft and weak at that temperature.
 
Karl A said:
Instead of using a chuck to hold the workpiece, how about gluing the workpiece to a large-diameter face plate with epoxy?

I have separated metal pieces that were temporarily joined with epoxy by soaking the bonded pieces in an oven set to 400°F. The epoxy was soft and weak at that temperature.
Click to expand...
Super glue is really popular for this, and stronger than you'd expect!

For "weaker" holds, blue painters tape on both sides joined by super glue is also quite popular.
 
You learn every day. I made a riser block for my mill,but haven't heard of risers for a lathe. Is this a common practice?Could this be done with most lathes? How accurate is it taking center hight in mind?
 
Hi,
Sherline's cost for the risers is so reasonable that it doesn't make sense to make them especially since the tailstock riser is dove-tailed top and bottom. I don't know about you but my imputed charge for things I might not have had to do myself is $750/hour given that I'm coming up on 79 and each hour is one of fewer and fewer.
 
I decided to do this. It will be manual not CNC, I never added the 4th axis to my home-built controller, but maybe will now. Other than buying a couple of new cutters, no additional expense.
 

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