Tight 3 Jaw Chuck

lpeedin

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter Gold Member
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Apr 22, 2014
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Since day 1 the 3 jaw Chuck on my 1127 has been very tight in regards to running the jaws in & out. I attributed this to it being new, but it's not got any better. I've removed the jaws several times looking for burrs, swarf, whatever that might be the cause. It really is a task to run the jaws in & out and with my old arthritic hands I often have to use both hands. I removed the jaws again today & finally discovered what I think might be the issue, but before I start filing, grinding, contacting Matt, or any other remedy, I'd love some opinions from others who have similar equipment.

Note in the picture below that each of the 4 valleys has a relief except the one in the upper left. All 3 of the inside jaws are like this; however, all 4 of the valleys on all 3 of the outside jaws are relieved. All 4 of the valleys on each of the 4 jaw Chuck jaws are also relieved.

It's the same valley on each of the inside jaws - like maybe a step was forgot on the set of jaws.
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Would really appreciate if some of you would check your jaws and see if yours are the same. You can tell without removing the jaws from the Chuck as shown in this pic. Note the unrelieved valley is in the lower left.
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If it is still in warranty, get the chuck replaced. If not, use a cutoff wheel in a die grinder and make your own reliefs. Even a hacksaw with a round grit blade might work. It can be a low tech job, any amount of relief is acceptable, it does not need to be as much as you see on your jaws.

The corner across the jaw from it also does not look like it is properly relieved, on one face yes, on the other no, from what I can see in the pics.
 
i'll bet you that if you were to stone the mating lands of the jaw, you could reduce the friction between the jaw and the chuck ;)
 
If it is still in warranty, get the chuck replaced. If not, use a cutoff wheel in a die grinder and make your own reliefs. Even a hacksaw with a round grit blade might work. It can be a low tech job, any amount of relief is acceptable, it does not need to be as much as you see on your jaws.

The corner across the jaw from it also does not look like it is properly relieved, on one face yes, on the other no, from what I can see in the pics.

Thanks, but as I stated in my OP, I wanted to hear from others with similar equipment before grinding or contacting Matt.
 
Thanks, but as I stated in my OP, I wanted to hear from others with similar equipment before grinding or contacting Matt.
A chuck is a chuck, they have been making them about the same for 100 years or more. One of the reasons import lathes are so much cheaper is that quality control is pretty much left up to the buyers and the dealers. I know, because I have one, too. Your problem is pretty much obvious from the photos. See what Matt will do for you, if damage control makes up for lack of initial quality. I suspect strongly that Matt will work with you if the lathe is still in warranty. I just wanted you to know that you can repair it yourself without major expense and effort if it comes to that. Replacement jaws are not a good idea, they are hand fitted and serialized to the chuck.
 
Rat (her than the hassle of return shipping and such I'd just relieve the corners with a die grinder using a thin cutoff wheel (I have that tool so that influences my comment). It depends on what tools you have available, a file would also work and be more controllable. See Oxtool the file king
 
Yes, maybe a corner is rubbing. But you said nothing about measuring the clearances? And clearances compared to the working jaws. If you confront Matt without that clearance info you will not be in the best position to make an argument…Dave.
 
A micro file in round shape (think chainsaw file but one from those pocket kits) with lots of oil or paint thinner.

Make a wood block that fits in the groove then notch to hold the file.

But first check with vendor.

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