Tig Welder

As RJ said, you could conceivably cut and rejoin the windings to get the full power of the transformer- here is a markup of your schematic showing the basic idea. Splitting the winding and putting the two halves in parallel. Forgive my sloppy picture editing attempt lol. Imagine that the two windings are the same number of turns (which they probably are already) so you just have to find the point on the winding where the fan connects and make the cut, then reconnect using solder and big copper lugs. Need a big soldering iron or torch, that wire is fat.
Mark S.
 

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Not sure if that pic worked, may have to change the format
 
Here's a schematic of the change (sounds like you got it working fine already)tigsxfmr1ajpeg.jpg
 
Hello!
I have reciently acquired the same 460v econotig that's discussed in this thread.
I'm going to follow these footsteps and re-wire for the 230v my garage has.
Before I do I'd like to know how your rewired econotig performs.
Did the rewire drastically reduce it's duty cycle?
Any pitfalls I should watch for?
I've used a tig once in highschool and probably won't know if my econotig is functioning correctly (at first).
Can't wait to burn some holes!
 
Unfortunately I haven't had much shop time to mess with the tig. I don't see why it would alter the duty cycle any. The few times I have used it, it did seem to work well. I would recommend upgrading the power cord for the welder (something I still need to do). It seems to be a regular 220v welder after the changes are made. Good luck, be careful to not mis-wire the transformer!
 
Zack: sk1nner has done this on his machine and says it works well- check page 2 of this thread it's like my markup drawing above. There are two 230v coils in series in the 460 volt unit, you just separate the windings at the fan connection point and connect them in parallel and in phase. Need about a 60 amp service to feed it. Use care.
Mark S.
 
Great!
Thanks guys!
I wired a 50 amp plug for my arc welder last summer. It (unfortunately) didn't occur to me i would ever need more than 50a.
I ran a 200a service into my garage so I'll run a bigger line if need be.
Think I'll try it on the 50. Worse case is I trip the breaker..... rite?
The drawings are very helpful, thanks!
I need to pick up Argon, tungston and rod tomorrow, then I get to learn how to use this tool. Definitely MY idea of a good time!
 
I would think that for 90% of what you will ever do 50 amp should be just fine. I have a 220v single phase, 300 amp out machine that calls for 100 amps in and works just fine on a 50 amp circuit for most jobs. It will be getting the full 100 amps in the new shop. Mike
 
Sucess!
It seems to operate correctly.

The unit didn't come with a foot operated remote, it came with a hand operated dial and on/off remote box.
20170317_225026.jpg
After using this setup for a few minutes it became obvious to me the wisdom of having a foot switch.
I think I'll make a foot operated on/off switch that'll plug into this box.
I remember my dad's "55" chevy dumptruck had a foot operated starter switch. Or maybe use that same style switch that older cars had for hi/low beams.
Anyone have ideas?
Thanks.
 
I remember my dad's "55" chevy dumptruck had a foot operated starter switch. Or maybe use that same style switch that older cars had for hi/low beams. Anyone have ideas?

Hi Zack,

The two examples you mention are just simple switches with contacts.
The TIG pedal requires a variable resistor (aka potentiometer, "pot", rheostat) to vary a small voltage to the machines control port that then varies the welder output current.

My Everlast TIG pedal uses a rack that has an arc that mates with a small spur gear on the pot's shaft. Something like that should be build-able.

Good luck, and please let us know what you come up with!

-brino
 
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