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The Pm-1440gt Has Landed

Discussion in 'PRECISION-MATTHEWS' started by jbolt, Sep 9, 2016.

  1. rwm

    rwm Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Looks like a component of a very high voltage switch...
    Like this from Princeton Plasma Physics Lab:

    31302327323_13ac127949_b.jpg

    R
     
    Last edited: Jan 4, 2017
  2. jbolt

    jbolt United States Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Thanks tmarks11. It's a hand wheel for a collet closer I made for the schools PM-1127 lathe. It is 8" in diameter, 0.675" radius on the hand grip.

    HW20.png

    Hand wheel for the carriage, hmmm.......
     
  3. rwm

    rwm Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Darn, wrong again....
    Really beautiful piece. You did that with the radius turner? Thats a lot of material to remove!
    Robert
     
  4. jbolt

    jbolt United States Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Yikes! The high voltage stuff looks spooky to me.

    The part was actually pretty easy to make. I did most of the roughing with a 1-1/4" boring bar. I love this lathe!

    The turning tool worked wonderfully. A lot better that I had expected. I was expecting a lot of chatter because of the height and stick-out of the cutting tool but it cut real smooth.

    The building of the radius tool and turning of the part are in this thread.
     
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  5. Weldingrod1

    Weldingrod1 United States Iron Registered Member

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    On the subject of DRO installation in crazy small places:
    I installed a magnetic "Electronica" scale on my Hardinge TL cross slide, where I REALLY had to shrink things down. I removed the scale from the Aluminum housing, and bonded it right to the slide with loctite black max, with screws on both ends (the stock blue thingies on the ends). Just FYI, you really need to add a top cover when you do this; there is an exposed gap that collects crud and interferes with the magnetic reading.
    upload_2017-4-30_11-8-32.jpeg
    At one point I decided my old lathe compound really needed a digital read out, so I made one. I peeled the capacitive reference PCB off of the aluminum backing, faced the side of the compound, and bonded that sucker on. I re-built the read head (with some trimming of the board) and screwed that onto the base. Worked great, and it was a lot of fun to make!
    upload_2017-4-30_11-12-55.jpeg
     

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