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Discussion in 'PRECISION-MATTHEWS' started by jbolt, Sep 9, 2016.
Yes, it is an Aloris BXA.
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Ok...I'll ask. How did you do the spiral on the handles? Looks great!
I did the spirals on my CNC mill using the 4th axis.
Jay, did you buy the DRO from PM or can you link me to the model you used?
I'll have to re-read the manual, didn't see the break-in procedure listed? 20 min run on low/high unloaded do the trick?
I have the EL400 magnetic scale kit from DRO Pros. 10" x 40" X=1um, Z=5um scales. http://www.dropros.com/Electronica_...#Electronica_Magnetic_Scale_2_Axis_Lathe_Kits:
The 8" x 40" will work since the cross slide only has 6-1/2" of travel. I was originally lead to believe it had 7-1/2". I recently did a job that required getting the center of the compound to the center of the spindle. I was able to do this by removing the stop at the end of the cross slide lead screw which gave me a little overt 7" of travel so I am glad I went with the 10" X scale.
There is no spindle break-in procedure in the manual. I'm not sure it is even necessary but for good measure I ran mine in L1, M1 & H1 for 10 min each to warm it up and distribute the gear oil.
If I am doing high precision work I will warm up the machine on H3 for 10-15 min.
I got frustrated with not having a place for the t-handle chuck wrenches & the QCTP wrenches so I dug into the scrap bin and threw this together. Not pretty but it does the job.
Okay last modification.....for now.
That's a nice looking piece you made that fits over the quill. Do you have a pic from the front? I need to do the same for my machine.
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Thanks bss1. As requested.
Really nice modifications. I am thinking about the DRO Pros product for my SB 10K. The scales will barely fit and then they will cover the gib screws for the top slide. I can make it work with spacers. Are you happy with the product and was it reasonably easy to set up? I see I will need drill extension to drill holes in the cross slide and saddle? Also hard to tap those. I am torn between that and just doing something with a digital caliper like you did with the tailstock.
Coincidentally, I installed the same tach as you. I love it.
I am very happy with the EL400 and magnetic scales. I found the scales and read heads easy to get aligned using a TDI.
It's been a few years since I have been around a SB10. I'm sure you will need to custom fabricate all the mounts.
If I recall the SB13 had the follower rest mount on the back of the saddle. I'm not sure about the SB10. If so you could use those holes for the read head mount. If not a drill extension is easy enough to make. I tapped those holes by hand as there was enough room on my lathe for the tap handle, just a little slow manipulating the t-handle back and forth.
I learned on machines before DRO's and now I have no interest in having one without. I think it would be worth the effort.
another alternative is mount it on the spindle side of the cross slide. You have to do a really good job of making a cover for it to protect it from chips.
Thanks for the picture Jay. I am in the process on mine and hope to finish this weekend. It will be a bit more blocky and utilitarian than yours.
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If I mount it spindle side, I will eventually machine it in half with the chuck jaws! I will put it on the back side with standoffs. I think the read head will fit with a shorter bracket. I think I can cut down the cover and keep the scale below the cross slide top.
There are a couple of inconsistencies in the video. My cross slide travel is 5.75. The worksheet says I will need a 10" scale. The video says I can use a 8" scale. Which is correct? Also in the video it says alignment of the gap between the scale and the read head must be .1mm or less. That seems pretty precise for the Z axis to maintain. Is that really true? Does he mean .1 inches ? That would make more sense.
Your welcome Brad. As long as it works its all good. Post some pictures when you are done.
I remember the worksheet being contradictory to the video. I think the 8" scale will do up to 8" of travel. They add for the length of the read head. I got the 10" and trimmed it a little so the scale is now about 11-1/2" plus the end caps.
They must mean 1mm for the gap. They provide a shim to set the gap. Using a TDI I was able to get my Z scale within a few thou over the 36"+ of travel. After the scale is aligned setting the gap is pretty easy using the shim.
Just received the 10x40 kit from DroPro! Got one question. Since the 10" X axis scale 15.5" long and the X axis body is only 13.75" long, how did you end up mounting the scale? I can't really tell from the pict you posted, looks like it might be mounted flush on the front and just left to hang off the back with some homemade bracket?
Also, with the scale mounted on the back side of the X axis it's covering the X axis lock down bolt, did you move this to the front or find that it's really not necessary and will hold position?
I will post some pictures when I get home.
Yes it covers the lock. The lathe at the school has the scale mounted on standoffs for access to the lock screw. It's a huge magnet for crud and drives me nuts so I opted not to do that. I put a friction lock on the front side. Got that idea from MKSJ.
Oh I keep forgetting to ask. What do you deisel?
That pict in my profile is an 80 6.2 Diesel powered Cutlass! Just an old school diesel hobbyist.
Cool. My dad had a 80's diesel Cadillac that was a bit of a pig.
I used to have a 93' D-250 w/5.9L Cummins. The last year of the mechanical rotary injection pumps. I put in custom injectors, high pressure injection pump and sequential turbos which then in turn required a performance transmission build and converting to disc brakes. It would hit 55lbs of boost but I had to keep it under 45 in fear of lifting the head without studding it. Not the most environmentally friendly vehicle especially living in the belly of the beast here in California. I have about a half a dozen formal complaints from the Bay Area Air Quality Management District for darkening intersections. They kept suggesting I have a mechanic check my vehicle.
When my kids were little when getting on the freeway I would put the tranny in towing mode which drops out the overdrive and stomp on it. That would throw them back in the seat, then at about 60 I would have them hit the OD. That would chirp the tires and throw them back again grinning ear to ear. Of course no one behind me could see a thing. I miss that truck.
Good point. That would turn a crash into a complete disaster. Nothing like having a $170 sacrificial scale in front of your cross slide to protect it.
I don't do a lot of work with my chuck jaws extended that far, so hadn't really thought of that scenario.
Here are some better photos of the cross slide scale mounting. The end caps are about 3/16" to 1/4" in from the ends of the cross slide.
The photos above are in the full forward position. You can see at the back there is another inch of travel. Sometime over the summer I am going to look at adding a spacer to the front and getting a longer lead screw to extent the travel.
Here is the cross slide full rear to the stop. That is 6.4" on my lathe. The stop is a washer held by a cap screw.
With the washer removed I can get another inch of travel but that puts the lead screw nut at less than 50% engagement.
I leave the stop off so I can get the center of the pivot point for the compound centered with the spindle. I used that pivot point for a radius turning tool.
Here is the friction lock for the cross slide. The plate needs to be stiffer. Steel would be a better choice. I will eventually redo this one.
Thanks Jay, are you sure you didn't buy the 8x40 and not the 10x40?
Another option to retain access to the cross slide lock is to mount the scale on stand-offs and install a sliding cover over the assembly to keep the chips out. I turned my scale with the reading side facing down. If I recall correctly, this orientation took up less real estate than having the scale on its side plus the width of the offset, plus the reader. The additional plus to this installation is that I was able to provide some protection for the scale and reader from tailstock bumps by the overhang of the scale bracket. There are some pics of this install in my build thread if interested.
It was the 10x40. I trimmed about 1-5/8" off the scale. Your scale looks 1/2" to 5/8" longer than the one I received.
Yup, just finished trimming mine as well!
You guys are gonna laugh. The scale mounting holes just happen to line up with the X axis gib adjustments (so I can't drill and tap), so I used some 3M double sides sticky tape , the 1MM thick super good stuff. Right or wrong, we'll see how long it lasts, but I've hung networking equipment with it that has held for years.
Hmmmm...I drilled and tapped mine. If I recall the casing was relatively thin in this area and there was clearance behind for the screws.
One concern I would have with the double stick tape is keeping oil off of it.
3M makes some amazing adhesive tapes. I've used some 3M 3 mil thick specialty tape for holding parts for machining. Cool stuff.
What is this? How big it is? Where did it come from/land on the planet?
My guess: hand wheel to replace the cheesy aluminum ones on his lathe (my lathe has the same ones, and it bugs me every time I lay my hands on them).
Beautiful work. 5" in diameter? Maybe for the carriage travel?