The electrical service and disconnects are in

[HMF]

The electrician finished his work, and I have three 30A lines with disconnects for the SB lathe and 2 mills.




:tiphat:Nelson

 

[Old Iron]

Looks good Nelson the electrician really did a clean job.

Paul

 

[Hawkeye]

Looks good, Nelson.

While it's nice to have lots of power available, you are well advised to only use wire that can handle that current to feed a machine. A 30 amp breaker won't 'force' 30 amps into a load, but, if a fault occurs, it won't trip until the current exceeds 30 amps. If you used #16 wire (power cord, extension cord, etc.) to connect the machine, a couple of things could happen. As the load passes 8 or 10 amps, the voltage getting to the machine will drop and the too-thin wire will start to heat up. The heat will cause more resistance, increasing the losses and the heating.

If you will be using one of your disconnects to power a machine that carries a recommendation for a 20 amp breaker, just change the breaker. The wire will work just fine. For the record, never put a bigger breaker in than the wire is rated for. I find this all the time when I'm upgrading electrical services. I can usually tell withing the first few seconds when a non-electrician has been 'improving' things.

These comments are intended as general information for the benefit of anyone connecting equipment in his shop.

 

[burnrider]

Takes time but I labeled/numbered the circuit breakers to their corresponding numbered plug.

 

[DMS]

Looks like pretty decent work there.

I'm gonna second burnrider's recommendation; in two years you aren't going to remember what goes where, best to label them now before you get all the equipment in.

 

[HMF]

Looks good, Nelson.

While it's nice to have lots of power available, you are well advised to only use wire that can handle that current to feed a machine. A 30 amp breaker won't 'force' 30 amps into a load, but, if a fault occurs, it won't trip until the current exceeds 30 amps. If you used #16 wire (power cord, extension cord, etc.) to connect the machine, a couple of things could happen. As the load passes 8 or 10 amps, the voltage getting to the machine will drop and the too-thin wire will start to heat up. The heat will cause more resistance, increasing the losses and the heating.

We put in a 30A disconnect switch and 20A fuse and 30 A breaker with #10 wire. The electrician said the 20A breaker would trip the breaker sooner so you don't have to draw over 20 to trip it. I left it up to him.

I plan to use some 12/3 stranded in a rubber cable that I got from McMaster by the foot to go from the disconnect to the VFD and VFD to the motor. I probably should use some oilproof conduit over the stranded too, especially on the longer runs.

:tiphat:Nelson

 

[HMF]

Looks like pretty decent work there.

I'm gonna second burnrider's recommendation; in two years you aren't going to remember what goes where, best to label them now before you get all the equipment in.

When I see what circuit turns off what, I will label them- it is required by code to pass inspection here.

Thanks,


:tiphat:Nelson

 

[Old Iron]

Only thing they inspect here in Alabama if you out in the county is the septic tank. Makes things a little easier here but I did wire my shop to code.

Paul

 

[Gary Max]

Looks great Nelson------- always a big deal to get this part right.

Paul----they made me install one GFI line in my shop----funny how they come up with these rules. Septic tanks are a real big deal around here also ,they have a new young inspector.