The Avey Lives!

John Hasler

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Former Member
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Dec 8, 2013
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The drawbar mechanism for my Avey drill press becoming a mill isn't quite done but it is far enough along that I couldn't resist making some chips.

An aluminum scrap, faced at 1800 RPM with a dull 1/2" end mill using WD40 lubricant, held by my HF xy drill-press vise. DOC about 1/16". I seem to have gotten a bit of a ridge at one end but the face seems otherwise smooth. The vise is blocked up on bits of channel which seem to wiggle a bit. They need to be replaced with bar. The quill was not locked.

testcut.jpg

More pictures soon, now that it is above zero in the shop.

testcut.jpg
 
The quill not being locked is more than likely where the ridge came from. Other than that, not bad.

"Billy G"
 
The quill not being locked is more than likely where the ridge came from. Other than that, not bad.

"Billy G"

One of the things I need to fabricate is some sort of quill lock. Right now the only way to do it is to crank down the sliding head adjusting screws after first loosening the stop screws. This gives me some confidence that I am not wasting my time and money, though.
 
guess it depends on model and age, my Avey has a quill lock its just a simple cast split collar. then raise the table or 'knee' like a mill
sam
 
guess it depends on model and age, my Avey has a quill lock its just a simple cast split collar. then raise the table or 'knee' like a mill
sam

Mine has a split collar. Locking it currently requires fiddling with four screws. I need to be able to use the machine as a drill press sometimes so I can't just lock up the quill and forget about it. Besides, I find the micrometer depth stop useful and the knee isn't very repeatable. Thus I'd like to be able to lock/unlock the quill with a single lever.
 
Mine has a split collar. Locking it currently requires fiddling with four screws. I need to be able to use the machine as a drill press sometimes so I can't just lock up the quill and forget about it. Besides, I find the micrometer depth stop useful and the knee isn't very repeatable. Thus I'd like to be able to lock/unlock the quill with a single lever.


Yes John mine has a single lever.
 
nice job and great to see you making chips. Is there any room to replace the 4 screws with a large single coarse threaded bolt? Then you can attach some kind of lever to the end of the bolt to make an easier to use quill lock.
 
nice job and great to see you making chips. Is there any room to replace the 4 screws with a large single coarse threaded bolt? Then you can attach some kind of lever to the end of the bolt to make an easier to use quill lock.

Yes, there's room, but I'd have to take the machine apart pretty far and do the machining on my old Craftsman drill press. I'm currently considering replacing the clamping bolts with axle bolts with sprockets on them, coupling the sprockets with a chain, and putting a lever or handwheel on one of the bolts.
 
The MT3 collet chuck modification (I guess that's what you'd call it) is done. Her's my report:

This
P1010012.JPG
Avey drill press wants to be a mill. It has double angular
contact bearings in the spindle, less than .0005" runout on the inside of
the MT3 taper, and less than .00025 sideplay 6" below the spindle so it
would seem adequate. However, among other things it needs a way to retain
collets. The usual method of drilling a center hole down the splined shaft
won't work: the thing is 3' long. Fortunately the slot for driving out
tanged tools with a drift is easily accessible: we'll work through that.

This is the approach. A steel bar, tapped on the ends, will slide up and
down in the slot. Attached to its center will be a bit of shaft tapped
3/8-16 to fit MT3 collets. An internally-tapped "nut" (actually a 2"
merchant coupling) will screw onto the bar. A collar will support the nut
from below so that when it is turned clockwise it will draw collets screwed
onto the shaft up tight. Spacers will be needed to hold the nut concentric
with the 2" spindle and thrust bearings will be needed at each end (the top
of the nut will press against the bottom of the quill when driving collets
out).

Calculations and research on the Web indicate that the collets will require
something between 85 and 650 pounds of force. The 11 1/2 TPI threads on
the nut and bar will handle that with a modest amount of torque,

In order to make assembly possible the 3/8-16 threaded shaft must be
coupled to the bar via a 1/4-20 threaded shaft. This is the weakest point
in the mechanism. Using a piece of grade 5 bolt for the 3/8-16 section and
grade 8 for the 1/4-20 makes pullout from the bar the failure point on
overload (just as well as that means if it breaks I can get the thing
apart). At about 1500lb this is good enough as long as I don't use a pipe
wrench.

Materials:
materials.jpg
The bar will be cut out of the lump of mystery metal. The PVC will become
spacers.

Finished parts:
finished_parts2.jpgfinished_parts3.jpg

There were change orders. PVC did not work out as a bushing so I acquired
a thrust bearing.

Wrecked fixture:
wrecked_fixture.jpg
I pressed the bar into a piece of 2" pipe and had the mechanic at the coop
threaded it on his machine. Almost worked. Fortunately the dies weren't
damaged and the bar got cut enough that I was able to finish the job with a
file.

Completed unit:
chuck.jpg

Tests:
test_fixture2.jpg

I assembled the test fixture shown above and measured torque on the nut and
force on the bolt at various points. Gnuplot tells me that F =57T where F
is upward force in pounds and T is torque in foot-pounds. Matches
reasonably well with theory.

I made a couple of wrenches (the nut and collar are drilled for them)
wrenches.jpg


And then I made some chips. Works! Turns out not to be hard to get the
collet to release, which is something I worried about.

To do:
Still need a bushing and a better spacer for the top of the nut.
Need a shield for the thrust bearing.

Problems:
The nut is hard to get started properly onto the threads on the bar. The
nut binds a little, probably due to the hand-filed threads in the bar and
the lack of concentricity of the PVC spacer inside the nut.

The way I should have done it (if I had the tools and materials): The nut
should be a running fit on the spindle, eliminating the spacers. The
threads should be double-start Acme. The bar and nut should be harder
material: the mild steel is going to wear. The collar should be a split
collar rather than set screw. The collar should have gear teeth cut in it
and the nut drilled so that a Jacobs chuck key could be used.

P1010012.JPG materials.jpg finished_parts2.jpg finished_parts3.jpg wrecked_fixture.jpg chuck.jpg test_fixture2.jpg wrenches.jpg
 
looks really cool, even if I don't quite understand how it works. Does it use a T-bar with a bolt perpindicular to the bar through the chuck key drift slot? Then you screw the collet on to the bolt and the T-bar stops it rotating? If this ends up giving you problems (no idea if it will or won't) you could always get an MT3 taper ER collet chuck which aren't too expensive ($100 inc. collets I think).

That X-Y vise is completely dwarfed on that table though :)
 
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