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Taking the CNC Plunge

Discussion in 'PRECISION-MATTHEWS' started by TomS, Aug 6, 2014.

  1. TomS

    TomS Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    OK. I think I've got it.

    photo 12.JPG

    I need to run a wire from one of the power supply V+ terminals to the driver VDC terminal and another wire from one of the power supply V- to the driver GND terminal. Correct?

    Tom S
     
  2. JimDawson

    JimDawson Global Moderator Staff Member Director

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    Yup, you got it
     
  3. TomS

    TomS Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Thanks for the help.
     
  4. GA Gyro

    GA Gyro H-M Supporter - Premium Content H-M Supporter-Premium

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    There may be a 940 CNC in my future... need to read and learn here... :)
     
  5. TomS

    TomS Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    It's been a steep learning curve for me but with help from several forum members I've been able to work through my "issues". My approach has been to take it a step at a time, get that portion of the build completed, then move on to the next step. At the moment I'm working on mounting and wiring limit switches.

    Tom S
     
  6. TomS

    TomS Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Made some progress the last few days and got the limit switches mounted.

    Here's a shot of the Y axis mount and switch.

    20150319_135317.jpg


    Here's the X axis. There's another switch actuator on the other end of the table.
    20150323_103336.jpg


    The is the Z axis.
    20150323_103402.jpg

    I'm at the point where I need to decide if I'm going with Mach 3 or 4. Been reading and listening and I'm leaning towards Mach 3 for a couple of reasons. First and foremost is the abundance of knowledge and support that is available. Mach 4 being new doesn't yet have much of a user base from what I've read it is in reality still in Beta mode. I can always upgrade later. Secondly the selection of Mach 3 breakout boards, smooth steppers and other related hardware is fairly large and readily available. So it's decision time.

    Thanks for looking.

    Tom S
     
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  7. bvd1940

    bvd1940 United States Active User Active Member

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    Thanks for the heads up on your build Tom, I like your idea on the roll around tool chest cabinet idea.
    I will be shopping for one post haste!!
    Congrats on such a nice clean build, I do not have that luxury as I have to use my mill as I convert which is tough with ball screws running manual.
    I will be watching as you finish your build.
    Bill
     
  8. TomS

    TomS Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Thanks for your comments. If you haven't already you might want to take a look at Jumps4's build thread. There's a lot of valuable info there. You'll have to sort through all the postings but in one he has an attachment of most of the motor and ball nut mounts he made. It saved me days of design work.

    Lot's of other help available as well. All you have to do is ask and the ideas and suggestions will begin flowing.

    Tom S
     
  9. GA Gyro

    GA Gyro H-M Supporter - Premium Content H-M Supporter-Premium

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    I will be reading to hear your decision and why... I may be learning CNC in a year or so.
    THX in advance for whatever you post!
     
  10. TomS

    TomS Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    I'm going with Mach 3. It was difficult for me to ignore the large Mach 3 following. I'll need the support when I get to the configuration stage.

    Tom S
     
  11. jumps4

    jumps4 Global Moderator Staff Member Active Member

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    Hi Tom
    I didn't even know you started a build thread , I was looking in the cnc section.
    Everything is looking good so far.
    now that I have posted a message here I can follow along as you go.
    Steve
     
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2015
  12. jumps4

    jumps4 Global Moderator Staff Member Active Member

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    these controllers are wired different from what Jim is saying 5v+ goes to dir+ and pul+ on all the controllers then returns to the breakout board to the respective pin as in this drawing. this is not your setup but an example of the bob wiring to these type controllers.
    the words step and pulse mean the same thing and that is why I used both words.
    here is a simple pic showing the breakout board wiring of a similar 4 axis setup
    there are also enable+ (5v+ ) and enable- pins not shown on this diagram but they "all" (enable- ) return to pin 17 on the bob.
    If you need one I can draw you an entire wiring diagram for your system with your z controller.
    Steve

    wiring 4 axis to bob.JPG
     
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  13. jumps4

    jumps4 Global Moderator Staff Member Active Member

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    your breakout board uses a usb cable from the pc for power, so the terminal marked "com" is the 5v+ that jumpers to every + connection on the controller, pul/step+, dir+ and en+. the other terminals returned to the marked connections. and all the enables are wired internally in the bob to return to pin 17 on the bob.
    I would leave all the motor on the bench for testing and they should be connected to the drivers before doing any power on tests. powering circuits without motors connected is hard on the drivers.

    you may also want to consider a powered usb hub like this
    ebay item # 351085595629
    it keeps the pc's power supply isolated from your drivers

    Steve

    m0XM3gTAJpFjPRde05uUWkg.jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2015
  14. TomS

    TomS Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Thanks for the info. A wiring diagram would be helpful. For info I don't yet have a fourth axis but have made provisions for it at a later date. The AC circuits are done and have been tested, e.g. spindle turns, fans work, e-stop shuts down power when pushed, etc. Tasks for the next couple of days are to finish wiring the limit switches and wire the controllers to the breakout board. All the low voltage wiring inside the cabinet will be shielded cable.

    I think I have a spare USB hub. If not I'll get one. If I understand your thinking correctly the BoB is powered by the computer via a USB cable and the controllers get their 5v from the USB hub.

    I appreciate your offer to help. I'm at the point where I need someone with experience to walk me through the control wiring and tuning.

    Tom S
     
  15. jumps4

    jumps4 Global Moderator Staff Member Active Member

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    sounds like your moving right along
    quote " I think I have a spare USB hub. If not I'll get one. If I understand your thinking correctly the BoB is powered by the computer via a USB cable and the controllers get their 5v from the USB hub. " No.
    the usb hub I suggested is powered with a separate power pack that plugs in the wall outlet to supply the 5vdc instead of the pc supplying the power .
    the usb hub will power the bob through it's usb cable ( thats all that cable does is supply power ) and the power to the drivers comes from the bob's "com" terminals for each axis to each driver and jumpers to each connection marked + , step/pul+ dir+ and en+ at the driver. then the terminals on the driver marked - .step/pul- dir- and en- each connect to the terminals on the bob for each axis on the board marked step dir and en.
    when your ready the 4th axis wires the same as X and Y
    you can use a single input pin for all the home and limit switches wired nc (normally closed ) in series. this leaves you with input pins left to use later for tool touch plate or a touch probe ect.
    Steve
     
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2015
  16. jumps4

    jumps4 Global Moderator Staff Member Active Member

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    see the connectors in the top of this pic and the jumpers in between each + terminal
    DSCF1802.JPG
     
  17. jumps4

    jumps4 Global Moderator Staff Member Active Member

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    your z driver is marked different for enable + and -
    on this driver they call it motor free + and -
    it is wired the same way with the pu+ dr+ and mf+ all jumper-ed to "com" on the bob
    and pu- dr- to their pins on the bob and the mf- to the en- on the bob.
    nothing connects to the alarm, ready or nc terminals, they are left blank.
    Steve





    2012_9_13_88947_224447.jpg
     
  18. TomS

    TomS Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    OK. Now I understand. I need to go to the shop and look at my controllers and BoB and your pictures and wiring diagram to get my arms around the wiring. I'm learning a lot about electricity and electronics doing this conversion but still have a lot more to lern.

    Tom S
     
  19. TomS

    TomS Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    More info to absorb. All good stuff.

    Thanks
     
  20. TomS

    TomS Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Been thinking about how I am going to run the limit switch wiring from the mill to the electronics drawer. Jumps4 sent me a series circuit diagram and others have also mentioned to wire them in series. This all makes sense to me but I'm a "show me" kind of guy so I made a circuit diagram specific to my installation. Hopefully I took the concept and applied it correctly. First a bit of background info. I have three limit switches - one for each axis. There are pictures of my installation in post #65 above. Each switch has two black wires. One wire is numbered 1 and the other 2. Did some internet reading and determined that the #1 wire is positive. I plan to do all of the series wiring at the mill and run a positive wire to one of the Bob input terminals and a ground wire to the Bob ground terminal. Comments and criticism welcome.
     

    Attached Files:

  21. jumps4

    jumps4 Global Moderator Staff Member Active Member

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    as long as the switches are normally closed meaning they are completing the connection until the lever is tripped, your drawing is right.
    Steve
     
  22. TomS

    TomS Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Yes, they are normally closed.
     
  23. TomS

    TomS Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Made some progress today with the control wiring. This is nothing new or different but I wanted to post pictures so others can see what I'm doing and let me know if I've done something wrong or if there is a better way to do it.

    I wired in a USB hub to power the breakout board and the relay for the power supplies. Thanks to Jumps4 for this pointer. Also got the X and Y axis drivers wired. Next steps are wiring the Z axis driver and then connecting the drivers to the breakout board.

    20150409_154935.jpg

    Here's a close up of the X axis driver wiring. Y axis is the same.
    20150409_152229.jpg
     
  24. jumps4

    jumps4 Global Moderator Staff Member Active Member

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    you plug your uc100 if you have one and the breakout board into the hub also
    then the hubs usb cable plugs into the pc
    Steve
     
  25. TomS

    TomS Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    OK got it. I just read your most recent post with bvd1940 about driver switch settings. I have DQ860MA drivers on the X and Y axis and 1600 oz. in. motors also. Are the switch settings shown correct for my setup? What are the settings for the Z axis (DQ2722M)?

    I'm out of town for the next week so I won't be able to do anything until I get back.

    Tom S
     
  26. jumps4

    jumps4 Global Moderator Staff Member Active Member

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    these are the switch settings for your drivers

    DSCF1800.JPG DSCF1801.JPG
     
  27. TomS

    TomS Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Thanks. I noticed that the X and Y axis power supplies have a voltage adjustment feature. Do I need to check the voltage output before connecting them to the motors and drivers? Hoping to get the Z axis wired as soon as I get home next week so I can test the motors.

    Tom S
     
  28. jumps4

    jumps4 Global Moderator Staff Member Active Member

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    you can it would not hurt but the voltage is not that critical
    as long as it's within a volt either way
    Steve
     
  29. TomS

    TomS Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    I will check the voltage during the motor set up sequence.
     
  30. TomS

    TomS Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Been on the road for the last week so was not able to get much done. Yesterday I wired the X and Y drivers to the BoB and plugged the BoB and UC-100 into the USB hub. I'll post pictures later today.

    The Z axis is next. I understand the wiring schematic but how do I jumper the MF+, PU+, and DR+ using the plug that was supplied with the driver? I suspect the + wires are joined together at the BoB "com" terminal but not sure. A picture would help out a lot.

    I regards to the dip switch settings I wanted to clarify that my drivers are set for 220v AC. Not sure if that has an effect on these settings.

    I'm not too far away from testing the motors. Getting anxious to see this thing run under power.

    Tom S
     

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