Tailstock on grizzly g0602 very stiff

[higgite]

I have had it apart many times now and have not seen any "binders". I did use the hone lase night and it is much better, but not acting as a precision tool by any means. I was very sparing with the master cylinder hone and kept it moving at ll times.

brian

The "binders" are operated by the locking handle on top of the tailstock. Grizzly may call that part something else, but if your quill lock works, they are there. Without them you wouldn't be able to lock the quill down.

When you had it apart, did you take the quill lock and leadscrew out to see if the quill would slide freely by hand? Don't unscrew the quill locking handle all the way or you could leave the binder behind in the tailstock body. Just pull it straight up after you remove the quill and the binder should come out with it.

If you have already done all that and I'm preaching to the choir, ignore me and go back to regular programming. )

Tom

ETA: I forgot to mention, when testing the quill to bore fit, also remove the set screw that keeps the quill from twisting in the bore.

 

[Bill Gruby]

The locking handle on top has two binders on it. The have a slot on the OD back. This slot keeps them moving in a straight line. The upper binder is not threaded the lower one is. The lower one climbs the threaded handle and tightens on the Ram to lock it in position. If the slot is damaged the binders will not work correctly. They will not unlock properly causing the Ram to become stiff when it is moved.

Grizzly refers to the binder as a Barrel Nut. It is reference number 307 in your parts list for the tailstock.

"Billy G"

 

[bstanga]

I just pulled up the parts list and looked at 307, when I get home I will have a look at it.

 

[jumps4]

I have the same lathe, the Wholesale Tools version and my tailstock was stiff also.. I found it to be rust and dirt inside. before disassembling I squirted oil in the open mt3 end to oil the threads and kept blowing it out, sand and grit came out off the casting. I kept working it until everything would move then I disassembled it and cleaned everything.
I think mine sat around before painting and rusted, once cleaned it was fine.
Steve

 

[RJSakowski]

I just pulled up the parts list and looked at 307, when I get home I will have a look at it.

I have a 602 which I bought three years ago and it doesn't have part 307. Instead, it uses the levered bolt to tighten the gap formed by the partial slit between the upper and lower halves of the tailstock housing.

Earlier this year, I was doing some heavy drilling on the lathe, something like a 7/8" drill. The drilling process had seated the MT adapter fairly well. Enough that it took a rap with a bras hammer while applying force with the tailstock screw to break it free. Afterwards, the quill on the tailstock was difficult to move. I assumed at the time that I had somehow swaged the tailstock quill which caused the binding.

Taking Billy G's lead above, I did some investigating. I removed the lock bolt and inserted a wedge in the slit and it did indeed free up the quill. However, it was not sufficient to restore the original freedom of movement. I removed the DRO and pulled the quill to examine it and noticed a shiny area on the back edge of the keyway slot. A few strokes with a diamond hone and the free movement of the quill was restored.

The process of heavy drilling had rotated the quill against the set screw key and had swaged the quill enough so an interference was created resulting in the difficult feed. The set screw makes a poor key in that contact is essentially on the points where the screw threads touch. Some time ago, I ran across a modification of the 602 tailstock where the OEM setscrew was replaced with a larger diameter set screw with a dog point. The dog point was a slightly smaller diameter than the keyway width. This provides a line of contact instead of the one or two points. Now that I have seen the problem with the original design, this modification is going high on my to-do list.

 

[RJSakowski]

Here is the link for the tailstock modification. https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/10x22grizzlyandthelike/conversations/topics/6258

 

[cookj320]

I have a 602 and part 307 is not on mine either. My tailstock is much easier to move when set screw is removed.......I'm in agreement, the set screw is causing binding. Can someone explain a dogpoint?

 

[RJSakowski]

I have a 602 and part 307 is not on mine either. My tailstock is much easier to move when set screw is removed.......I'm in agreement, the set screw is causing binding. Can someone explain a dogpoint?

A dog point set screw has a cylindrical point with a smaller diameter than the minor diameter of the thread. The OEM setscrew needs to be backed off slightly from full contact. Some Loctite on the screw threads will keep it from working in to make contact with the bottom of the keyway.

 

[xman_charl]

another problem with that flimsy tailstock

Using drill chuck tail stock, drill chuck, morse taper will start rotating occasionally.

Have tried another drill chuck mounted to another morse taper.

Still rotates!

another problem to solve

Charl

 

[paulymorph]

The dog point was a slightly smaller diameter than the keyway width. This provides a line of contact instead of the one or two points. Now that I have seen the problem with the original design, this modification is going high on my to-do list.

I know this is an older thread but THANK YOU RJSakowski. This was exactly my problem. The original grub screw threads scored the upper edge of the keyway on the quill and under heavy drilling it always seemed to get worse. After smoothing the inner edge and smoothing the top with a fine file, it was completely free again and so I machined a custom dog point grub thumb screw and that seems to have done the trick. Thanks again!