Swapping Lathe Motors

[Model Maker]

Hi All

I have been screwing with the motor on my lathe.

 

[Tony Wells]

If the Grizzly is electrically reversible, we will need to see the diagram. Otherwise, the wiring should be straightforward.

Line to lead T1, and T4 & T5 together. Tie T2, T3, and T8 together and make no other connection to those. That will give rotation. If it is incorrect, then change T8 and T5. Again, we need to see the full diagram if there is a reversing switch involved.

 

[Model Maker]

I finished mounting the motor.

 

[Tony Wells]

MM, I'm not seeing the link. I'd sure like to look at it before making my next recommendation. I think you can get it going pretty easily tomorrow if you get the belts.

 

[Model Maker]

.

 

[Tony Wells]

The pictorial isn't all that helpful on the motor connections. I don't see any lead identification coming out of the motor as is connected at the white junction block. That is where they break out the windings for reversing. If they were tagged, where they weren't visible in the photo, it could probably be figured out, but in the interest of getting you going asap, disconnect the leads U1, U2, V1 as well as the PE ground connector. After verifying these connections match the picture in the manual, or taking your own, we can figure out how to reverse it should you desire.

On the new motor, follow this:

(for Reference)
V2 = T1
Z2 + U2 + V1 = T3 + T8 + T2
U1+Z1 = T4 + T5

Connect V1 to T1 on the motor
Connect V2 to T4 + T5 on the motor
Connect T3,T8,T2 together and isolate (use wire nut if you can)
Isolate U2 with a wire nut
Ground under a screw on the motor

If the lathe runs in reverse, swap T5 and T8 in the configuration. We can investigate the integral reversing if you wish, but we will need to figure out the white block. If you have a meter, set up a continuity diagram of it, and we may be able to see if the motor can be wired as the original. I have my doubts.

 

[Model Maker]

Thanks for the help Tony

 

[Tony Wells]

Always glad to help. My Monarch doesn't have a reverse, and unless I get into a serious bout of tapping, I'll not miss it. I have other lathes for that anyway.
Just curious, did you notice which one of the contactors in the control cabinet was making when it was in "forward"? Couldn't really tell from the pics in the manual. Another comment on the pics: They showed "L" and "N" as the incoming power. That would be fine, for a 120 VAC unit. A 220 VAC should have two leads labeled "L" for "Line" usually L1 and L2, plus the neutral. Oh well. It worked out for you. Glad you are making chips again.