Suitable Motor For Logan 200?

Split phase motors are not the best choice for high starting loads.
 
I agree with Rich. With all of the belts and gears that may be in the drive train, an engine lathe is not a good candidate for a split phase motor. Also try WW Grainger. They aren't cheap but do carry a lot of different capacitor start motors. One word of warning - if you do buy one with a thermal overload breaker, do NOT buy one with automatic reset. It will re-start itself as soon as it cools off.
 
If you are still interested in 3 phase you may want to check out the Leeson E116738 it's an OPD (open drip proof) rather than an TEFC (totally enclosed fan cooled) but it has no exterior junction box or capacitor. 3/4 hp.

Here is one site that has it: (I have never purchaased from them so I can't recommend or discourage)
http://www.electricmotorwarehouse.com/3-4-hp-1725-rpm-56-frame-208-230-460-volts-open-drip-leeson-electric-motor-e116738/#sthash.1O3tPpV0.dpbs

Drawing with dimensions:
http://www.leeson.com/CnxDocRequest/PublishedPDF/2015/documents/SW Drawing_607-0191_B_1898148_20.pdf
 
Here's a close up of a Leeson with a capacitor and the position of the J-box with respect to the ear on the casting. The motor is already padded up.

Leeson Single Phase Install resized.jpg

This particular setup is not using the stock pulley (someone bushed it for a 1/2 inch shaft, and the setscrew is stuck - still have to fix that). The motor will have to be nudged to the right a bit once the proper stepped pulley is installed.

This is a frame 56 Leeson Cat No. 110013.00, Model C6C17FB2K. I believe they're available on line for about $230. It's 120/240 single phase, but no thermal overload. I got lucky and picked it up NOS for about $100.

I happen to have a piece of small angle iron (future light mount) in the vicinity and it appears there's still a bit of room left to let the motor swing up more. Sort of tight, but it does fit.

Hope this helps.

TomKro
 
Split phase motors are not the best choice for high starting loads.

Are the starting loads all that high on a 10" Logan? The reason I ask is that one source I came across this morning indicated that split phase motors are OK for lathes, as well as
fans, etc.:



"Applications of Split Phase Induction Motor
This type of motors are cheap and are suitable for easily starting loads where the frequency of starting is limited. This type of motor is not used for drives which require more than 1 KW because of the low starting torque. The various applications are as follows:-

Used in the washing machine, and air conditioning fans.
The motors are used in mixer grinder, floor polishers.
Blowers, Centrifugal pumps
Drilling and lathe machine."
 
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If you are still interested in 3 phase you may want to check out the Leeson E116738 it's an OPD (open drip proof) rather than an TEFC (totally enclosed fan cooled) but it has no exterior junction box or capacitor. 3/4 hp.

Here is one site that has it: (I have never purchaased from them so I can't recommend or discourage)
http://www.electricmotorwarehouse.com/3-4-hp-1725-rpm-56-frame-208-230-460-volts-open-drip-leeson-electric-motor-e116738/#sthash.1O3tPpV0.dpbs

Drawing with dimensions:
http://www.leeson.com/CnxDocRequest/PublishedPDF/2015/documents/SW Drawing_607-0191_B_1898148_20.pdf


I think I'm going to stay with single phase if possible since I've got it at the breaker panel already. I will have another look at Leeson though. Open drip proof is
OK with me: that's mostly what I've been looking at.
 
Here's a close up of a Leeson with a capacitor and the position of the J-box with respect to the ear on the casting. The motor is already padded up.

View attachment 141192

This particular setup is not using the stock pulley (someone bushed it for a 1/2 inch shaft, and the setscrew is stuck - still have to fix that). The motor will have to be nudged to the right a bit once the proper stepped pulley is installed.

This is a frame 56 Leeson Cat No. 110013.00, Model C6C17FB2K. I believe they're available on line for about $230. It's 120/240 single phase, but no thermal overload. I got lucky and picked it up NOS for about $100.

I happen to have a piece of small angle iron (future light mount) in the vicinity and it appears there's still a bit of room left to let the motor swing up more. Sort of tight, but it does fit.

Hope this helps.

TomKro

Thanks Tom, this is useful info: I'll get the drawing and compare with the other motors I'm looking at as well. I notice that yours is a 3/4 HP motor: did you feel that 1/2 isn't enough?
A tight fit, but it looks as though the capacitor has enough room which was my main
concern. I've found some motors without J-boxes on the side. I occurred to me that a
link type belt would be an advantage here: if I need to drop it a little for clearance I could just add a few links.
 
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I agree with Rich. With all of the belts and gears that may be in the drive train, an engine lathe is not a good candidate for a split phase motor. Also try WW Grainger. They aren't cheap but do carry a lot of different capacitor start motors. One word of warning - if you do buy one with a thermal overload breaker, do NOT buy one with automatic reset. It will re-start itself as soon as it cools off.

Thanks for the info on overload breakers: I didn't know that. Do you think thermal protection is needed in a application like this: it's not clear to my why these motors would run hot.
(Though I understand that can be a concern with running at slower speeds with a VFD.)
 
Are the starting loads all that high on a 10" Logan?

They could be significant with a heavy chuck swinging a big chunk of metal, back gears and feed gears engaged... Looking through the old catalogs for Atlas, Logan and Delta Rockwell you will see capacitor start motors recommended for lathes and even drill presses. Both Atlas and Delta listed split phase motors but I have never seen one recommended for any of their machines. I have not done an exhaustive search so there may be something lurking out there that I missed. Split phase motors typically don't like frequent starts, this may be why they aren't recommended for drill presses.
 
Thanks for the info on overload breakers: I didn't know that. Do you think thermal protection is needed in a application like this: it's not clear to my why these motors would run hot.
(Though I understand that can be a concern with running at slower speeds with a VFD.)

I don't think that a thermal overload is necessary on a lathe as no one is likely to be dumb enough to start one and then walk away. I now consider them a requirement on cutoff saws after burning up the motor on mine, but that's unrelated. I just wanted to mention the danger of automatic reset JIC you ended up having one as a choice. To replace my saw motor, I had to go with a more expensive one than I really needed because the only one available otherwise exactly right had an auto reset breaker.
 
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