Straight 6 Cylinder Engine

Thanks Matt I think my biggest problem is that I get into too much of a hurry when close to the last hole. I need to slow down.
I have started using more metric threads when the need arises for something in between standard sizes.

I want to thank everyone that left suggestions on the lettering. I have done this before on dials and art work but I was just not deep enough into the aluminum to hold a color on this plate. I have resurfaced the plate and shined it up for now I will leave it like it is.
I enlarged the water pump inlet hole from 5/16" to 3/8"and drilled and taped for a vent hole as high up in the water jacket as possible.
Now I have good water flow at 750rpms much better.

13 valve guides, one for an extra just in case.
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Thanks for looking
Ray
 
The tape and table saw is for the painting of details.

We have some aluminum communication rack plates that we use for mapping where we plant things.

Need to add some lines to make it better.

Pin stripe tape comes off, have pinstripe painter tool, paint is on top so can rub off.

We will apply packing or masking tape to the surface, then burnish it down to get good stick.

We set the table saw to just cut a few thousands into the aluminum through the tape.

Re-burnish the edges of the tape then fill the cutout with paint.

Remove tape and now have clean edges and no sanding marks in the paint.

You could do same for the engraving on your side plate.

The tape keeps paint from the surface so you do not need to sand it off.

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I understand now I have never tried that method before. I will keep that in my to try list.
Thank you
Ray
 
Scraping powder coat powder into the grooves and baking is how I make tags pop.
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What a great idea I will have to try that.

I installed the valve guides last night and today extended the intake and exhaust valve holes into the guides.
Then tapped them 5/16 X 24 threads.
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I got a start on the valves themselves.
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Thanks for looking
Ray
 
Progress the last couple of days was laping in the valves, making spring retainers, and cutting the springs to length. I also installed the piston O-rings.
Sorry I didn't get any pictures of those processes but here are the results.
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I drilled, counter bored 7/16", and threaded for the 1/4" X 32 spark plugs.
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I then installed the head and checked for compression.
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My usual way to check is to spin the flywheel and if it bounces back before TDC then there is enough compression to at least get the engine running. That doesn't work very well when you have a small test flywheel and the resistance of 6 o-rings to over come. You just don't spin the flywheel by hand so I hooked up the hand drill. Doing one cylinder at a time I installed the spark plug and spun the engine over holding the exhaust valve open. Then release the valve and if the drill wants to jump out of your hand then that cylinder is good. All turned out fine.

Thanks for looking
Ray
 
Boswell said:
Sounds dramatic.
Click to expand...
I may have exaggerated a little bit.:)


Thought I would continue on the valve train so I cutout the cam supports and made a brass bushing for the cam belt drive pulley.
I installed needle bearings for a cleaner look in the cam supports.

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Side view of the 3/8" cam shaft.
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I had this timing belt left over from a previous build and had no expectations that it would be even kinda close but it is the exact length needed for this engine. I think the cam shaft may be a little too high and away from the exhaust valves but I won't know until I have made the cams. I can shave off some on the bottom of the supports if it is and use an idler on the belt.
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And the other side.
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Thanks for looking
Ray
 
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