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MON Steady Rest, Taper Attachment

Jonathans

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#1
I bit the bullet and picked up a Monarch 10EE after playing with my 9" SB for a while.
Does anyone know where I can find a steady rest for it?
I would also like a taper attachment.
Thanks
 

4gsr

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#2
They sure are proud of their prices for a steady rest on eBay! Ouch! Taper attachments are much harder to find. You may hang out on the Monarch 10EE Forum on Yahoo. That would probably be your best bet finding stuff.
 

Doubleeboy

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#3
Taper attachment for EE is going to cost some change, likely 500-1000. They are very nice, micrometer adjust, etc. Many of the ones you will see for sale will be missing some parts. I would post on the PM monarch board or at least watch there. If you are patient you can pick up a steady by watching ebay for steady that is mislabeled or not labeled by brand. That is how I got mine for $100.

michael
 

chips&more

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#4
If you are having buyers remorse now. I can help you with that. Just sent the 10EE over to my house and I will continue the bullet biting for you…Dave.
 

Jonathans

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#5
Well, I saw a nice steady on ebay but the price looked like they thought it was made of some precious alloy or something. What the heck, I thew them and offer and they bit.
So I have me a steady in the mail. Now to find a taper attachment. Thanks for the suggestions. Dave, your welcome to come by my place and sit with the 10ee sometime if that will help.
 

timvercoe

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#6
I have never used a Monarch taper attachment. I hear they are the berrys, work really well. Have you considered making one? There is some really good information out there about doing so. Several threads on the unmentionable web site.

Tim
 

Jonathans

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#7
I think I learned today that I may not be able to retrofit a Monarch taper attachment to my lathe without replacing some major components of my cross feed carriage.
Tim, I'd be very interested in making one. I'll do some searching to see what I can find. Is what you are referring to specific to a 10EE or Generic?
 

Cal Haines

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#8
Everyone seems to wants a taper attachment, but they mostly just sit there and collect dust. You talk to real toolmakers and they will usually tell you that it's just machine tool bling. What do you NEED it for?

There was an article in Home Shop Machinist some year back that went through making a taper attachment from scrap.

Here's another article: http://www.kinzers.com/don/MachineTools/taper_att/

Cal
 
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Jonathans

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#9
Well Cal, I'm sort of embarrassed to say that the only project I had in mind requiring a taper attachment was to make a black powder cannon someday!
Thanks for the link to the article.
 

MARVIN GARDENS

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#10
That makes two of us I guess because a cannon is on my "someday" list. I recently purchased a 10EE and was able to get a taper attachment and the other parts needed to use it from a fellow parting a 10EE out.

Regards.

Bob
Well Cal, I'm sort of embarrassed to say that the only project I had in mind requiring a taper attachment was to make a black powder cannon someday!
Thanks for the link to the article.
 

Jonathans

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#11
Bob,
Besides the attachment itself, what alterations were necessary to the carriage and leadscrew?
 

MARVIN GARDENS

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#12
If you are going to start working on a 10EE, I would make Cal my new best friend.:)

On Cal's advice, in addition to the taper attachment I also got the cross-feed dial and the draw bar. The telescoping cross-feed screw won't work with the dial from a non-telescoping screw.

Unless the mounting holes line up perfectly, you will probably need to drill, ream and dowel the holes in your saddle and then match drill and tap new holes. Monarch typically drilled the dowel holes after the assembly had been mounted and all adjustments completed. In a lot of cases, this appears to have been done using a hand drill-motor and they are often not perfectly straight and the locations can vary. Any dowel holes on your saddle will either need to be drilled oversized (along with the taper attachment) or doweled and re-drilled if they are very far out of line.

I pretty much copied the message I received from Cal when I was in the process of buying my taper attachment. I thought it best so as not to jumble anything in translation.

I have three lathes now, wanted and have taper attachments for/on all three, and have not used one yet.

_57_zpsedabacb8.jpg

My 1930's era 10EE project.

Regards.

Bob
 
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Jonathans

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#13
Thanks Bob, and Cal,
I will probably ponder that last sentence for a while prior to continuing on this venture.
 

randyc

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#14
Used my Sheldon taper attachment once upon a time to make a morse taper but that can be done with the compound. 99.999% of the time the taper attachment will be unused, disconnected and covered to keep chips out. Also, the length of taper is limited if cannons and such are your goal. Might want to find out the max travel before investing in one ...
 

18w

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#15
Thanks Bob, and Cal,
I will probably ponder that last sentence for a while prior to continuing on this venture.
Every place I have worked had at least one machine with a taper attachment. Probably one of the least used pieces of equipment we had. But in a business, when you needed it you really needed it.
There are lots of work arounds like offsetting the tailstock and using the compound as Randy suggested. Randy pointed out the biggest thing to watch out for, especially on a 10EE, and that is the length of taper you will be able to cut. You will probably find that you will be able to make longer tapers without the taper attatchment.
But then again, if I had a 10EE, I would want every bell and whistle available. :eagerness:

Darrell
 

randyc

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#16
...But then again, if I had a 10EE, I would want every bell and whistle available. :eagerness:

Darrell
ME TOO !!!! And if I had the kind of money to buy a nice 10EE, I wouldn't have a problem with paying $500 for a steady rest.

I forgot to mention offsetting the tailstock for turning one of those cannon barrels. Leave a short non-tapered section on the muzzle for the steady rest (to make the bore).
 
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