Starting The Refurbishment Of My 1947 South Bend 9a

thenrie

thenrie

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A couple years ago I bought a Delta Rockwell 11" lathe. Turned out the lathe needed more work than I suspected when I bought it, which necessitated that I find a lathe on which to make a few new shafts and cut a few bushings. I found this little 9A at a reasonable price, nicely tooled, taper attachment, collet closer, etc. I finished the rebuild of the DR11, which turned out very nicely, indeed, and immediately after, moved across the country to Utah. So, here I was, moved from a huge workshop in VA to a little 10X12 shop in UT, completely stuffed with tools, so that I couldn't access anything to work with. So, I decided to see what kind of a price I might get for my DR11, since I wasn't using it. Never even got to make anything more than one test cut. Didn't really expect to sell it at the price I was asking, but figured if someone would pay my price, I could use the funds elsewhere.

Anyway, to make a long story short, a fellow bought my DR11, but getting the thing out and delivering it got my creative juices moving again, so I decided it was time to refurbish the old 9A. So, it's apart and I'm cleaning it up for a fresh coat of paint.

The old thread about my South Bend can be found here:
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/just-brought-home-a-south-bend-9a.19468/page-2#post-182585

So, Here goes.
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So, while taking it apart, I got a bit of a surprise. Looks like my bull gear has had a couple repairs. At least 6 teeth have been broken and repaired. The repairs were done very well. So well, in fact, that I didn't know it until I got the gear off and cleaned it up.

I also found that my spindle pulley gear has had some work on two or three teeth as well. Again, a well done repair, but not perfect.

So, this evening I happened to find good buys on both items on eBay. The replacement parts are on the way.IMG_1803.JPG IMG_1804.JPG IMG_1805.JPG
 
Does anybody have an opinion as to whether I should upgrade from the old 1/4 hp motor to a 1/2? The old motor is getting a bit weak. The starter capacitor is bad and I've been starting it by a turn of the wheel. I've been a bit disappointed in that I can't get a good cut and have to settle for turning off .010 or less at a time on steel. Is a 1/2hp motor too much for the little machine?
 
Today's half horse motor might have what your quarter has. I replaced a half on my old SB with a new half and it didn't have the power the old one had.
Where is Salem? I'm in Pocatello Id. Maybe we could work out some thing on the new half I have.
I hate to say but I bought a HF one horse and It has been great so far.
 
Hmm. That's a thought. The 1/2 I'm looking at is a Baldor, so I know it's a worthy motor. The 1/4 I have now is a General Electric, but it's pretty old. I think it's losing steam. I might take a look at what HF offers, just to compare. What do you need to get for yours?

I was sort of concerned that getting a stronger motor might give me some worries about breaking gear teeth, but if your 1hp is not breaking things, then a 1/2hp should be fine.

Salem is right between Spanish Fork and Payson, south of the Provo/Orem area. Moved here last year to be closer to the kids. Gave up a 35X55 workshop back in VA. I hope my kids appreciate what I sacrificed to be closer to their kids! :)
 
In the later years SB shipped the 9A's with 1/2 HP motors. My '72 10K came with a 1/2 HP and it's basically the same thing as a 9A.

The broken gears you see aren't from motor HP, after all the flat belt makes a pretty good torque limiter, it's from abuse. Either someone was beating on a stuck chuck or they crashed the lathe hard while in back gears.

While I have a few things from Harbor Freight, they aren't exactly known for quality electric motors. :) The seller included a brand new Dayton motor with my SB10K and it's been working fine.
 
After several years with the original 1/4 HP motor on my 9A, I changed it out for a 1HP GE and a new serpentine flat belt. The belt will slip if the cut gets too hearty, but that's ok. I now think .050 to .060 is normal on 4360 steel without belt slip. Really makes threading with single point tool nice also == Good luck == Jack
 
Thanks for all this info. That really eases my mind. I'm now looking at 3/4hp motors. That ought to do me well enough.
 
Hey, I learned this evening that the dual-sheave countershaft drive wheel I bought, to convert my 6-speed to a 12-speed, is made of aluminum. I thought they were all cast iron. Did I get taken? It was advertised as a South Bend drive wheel. It has a casting number of 2542 RL1 (or RLI). The large sheave is 10", just like the single-sheave I have, so it will work, regardless, but I was wanting a genuine South Bend part.

I discovered this fact when I removed it from the industrial-strength degreaser this evening. Luckily I didn't leave it in there long enough to do any significant damage. A little buffing and paint and it will be fine.

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