Spinning Tops

I was referring to boxes of powder in different colors, including gloss black, metallic black, several kinds of bronze, and numerous formulations of "clear", no two of which gave the same results (let alone "clear is clear").

That definitely looks good from here, in a small photo on my phone. Hard to judge without really seeing it, but it's definitely better than what I had seen before. My point, though, was that it's very easy for a clear powder coat to come out bad, spoiling the quality of the work it was meant to protect. It is a very delicate process and difficult to get a workpiece covered evenly without completely caking it in a relatively thick layer of plastic. That's what I really liked about the dipped-in-thin-lacquer approach: easy to get a very consistent coat, with predictable finish, not to mention the ease of doing it on the benchtop without any special equipment.
 
I was referring to boxes of powder in different colors, including gloss black, metallic black, several kinds of bronze, and numerous formulations of "clear", no two of which gave the same results (let alone "clear is clear").

That definitely looks good from here, in a small photo on my phone. Hard to judge without really seeing it, but it's definitely better than what I had seen before. My point, though, was that it's very easy for a clear powder coat to come out bad, spoiling the quality of the work it was meant to protect. It is a very delicate process and difficult to get a workpiece covered evenly without completely caking it in a relatively thick layer of plastic. That's what I really liked about the dipped-in-thin-lacquer approach: easy to get a very consistent coat, with predictable finish, not to mention the ease of doing it on the benchtop without any special equipment.

Actually, I have had no issues of discoloration on the clear powder coat. And yes, clear is clear, no color or tint. And also, I have found the clear is probably the easiest to do and in thinner coats than the color. I guess we just have different experiences in powder coating.

Sorry gang, I guess we derailed this thread a little.

Now back to your regularly scheduled program.
 
Thanks Robert, I enjoyed that!
-brino
It's true. I may seek treatment. First I have to invest in better tooling.
ALso I mentioned gold plating. It looks like that would be painful since I would have to nickel plate first and then gold plate. I may just let it tarnish. It is 85,5,5,5 brass. The clear coat and wax ideas are good a well. I just don't want to see scratches that are the only places that gets tarnished.
R
 
Actually, I have had no issues of discoloration on the clear powder coat. And yes, clear is clear, no color or tint. And also, I have found the clear is probably the easiest to do and in thinner coats than the color. I guess we just have different experiences in powder coating.

Sorry gang, I guess we derailed this thread a little.

Now back to your regularly scheduled program.
They were all clear. But some had higher sheen than others. Some gave a color cast in certain light (metamerism). Some were very slightly cloudy, as though a couple percent of white powder had been perfectly mixed in (I'm sure that wasn't the cause, just describing the effect). No two were the same, even though all were "clear". We were trying to pick one formulation to be used forever more on production runs, so we were probably looking much closer than most people do. We did so after we had to scrap a rather large batch of parts because the first "clear" was that cloudy one.
 
Top this: ; )

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How about a racing piston as a spin base?:

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Robert
 
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FYI:
The 8mm ball pressed into a reamed 5/16 hole works out perfectly. No crazy glue needed.
Robert
 
Oh no! One of my balls came loose!
I need a way to ream a hole that is about .245" so I can press fit the bearing. Do I need to make that reamer myself? I could try to make a D bit reamer or I could grind 0.002 off a 1/4" reamer. Can I buy one?
Robert
 
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