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Spinning Tops

Discussion in 'NEW MEMBER PROJECTS F' started by rwm, Mar 12, 2017.

  1. intjonmiller

    intjonmiller United States H-M Supporter - Premium Content H-M Supporter-Premium

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    I was referring to boxes of powder in different colors, including gloss black, metallic black, several kinds of bronze, and numerous formulations of "clear", no two of which gave the same results (let alone "clear is clear").

    That definitely looks good from here, in a small photo on my phone. Hard to judge without really seeing it, but it's definitely better than what I had seen before. My point, though, was that it's very easy for a clear powder coat to come out bad, spoiling the quality of the work it was meant to protect. It is a very delicate process and difficult to get a workpiece covered evenly without completely caking it in a relatively thick layer of plastic. That's what I really liked about the dipped-in-thin-lacquer approach: easy to get a very consistent coat, with predictable finish, not to mention the ease of doing it on the benchtop without any special equipment.
     
  2. RandyM

    RandyM United States Global Moderator Staff Member H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Actually, I have had no issues of discoloration on the clear powder coat. And yes, clear is clear, no color or tint. And also, I have found the clear is probably the easiest to do and in thinner coats than the color. I guess we just have different experiences in powder coating.

    Sorry gang, I guess we derailed this thread a little.

    Now back to your regularly scheduled program.
     
  3. brino

    brino Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Thanks Robert, I enjoyed that!
    -brino
     
  4. rwm

    rwm Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    It's true. I may seek treatment. First I have to invest in better tooling.
    ALso I mentioned gold plating. It looks like that would be painful since I would have to nickel plate first and then gold plate. I may just let it tarnish. It is 85,5,5,5 brass. The clear coat and wax ideas are good a well. I just don't want to see scratches that are the only places that gets tarnished.
    R
     
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  5. intjonmiller

    intjonmiller United States H-M Supporter - Premium Content H-M Supporter-Premium

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    They were all clear. But some had higher sheen than others. Some gave a color cast in certain light (metamerism). Some were very slightly cloudy, as though a couple percent of white powder had been perfectly mixed in (I'm sure that wasn't the cause, just describing the effect). No two were the same, even though all were "clear". We were trying to pick one formulation to be used forever more on production runs, so we were probably looking much closer than most people do. We did so after we had to scrap a rather large batch of parts because the first "clear" was that cloudy one.
     
  6. rwm

    rwm Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Top this: ; )

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    How about a racing piston as a spin base?:

    [​IMG]

    Robert
     
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2017
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  7. rwm

    rwm Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    FYI:
    The 8mm ball pressed into a reamed 5/16 hole works out perfectly. No crazy glue needed.
    Robert
     
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  8. BearsDown

    BearsDown United States Iron Registered Member

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  9. rwm

    rwm Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Oh no! One of my balls came loose!
    I need a way to ream a hole that is about .245" so I can press fit the bearing. Do I need to make that reamer myself? I could try to make a D bit reamer or I could grind 0.002 off a 1/4" reamer. Can I buy one?
    Robert
     
  10. brino

    brino Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    OUCH! :eek 2:
    Maybe that belongs in the "Goofs and Blunders you should avoid thread" ;)
    -brino
     
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  11. gnihcraes

    gnihcraes United States Swarf Registered Member

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  12. Rong

    Rong Canada Swarf Registered Member

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    Where did you order the SiN Balls? My Google search returned some disconcerting results.
     
  13. rwm

    rwm Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Amazon had the 1/4" ten in a package. Prime. $14.
    Got to figure out the 0.246 reamer though. Any thoughts?
    Robert
     
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  14. DHarris

    DHarris United States H-M Supporter - Premium Content H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Instead of a reamer, could you just grind a HSS boring tool (really small one!) from a 1/4" blank and drill undersize hole and bore hole to desired width? you would not have to take much off or go very deep??
     
  15. gnihcraes

    gnihcraes United States Swarf Registered Member

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    1/8" Inch G5 Precision Si3N4 Silicon Nitride Ceramic Bearing from amazon is what's in mine.

    1/8 inch center drill, depending on depth, it will usually just press fit. If not, just a drop of super glue.

    photo I just took of mine all spinning at once. Still trying to perfect them.
     

    Attached Files:

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  16. rwm

    rwm Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    This may be crazy but I am going to try to use a tool post grinder in the lathe to take a couple thou off a 1/4" reamer. Will that work?
    BTW. I have a 10 cm lens coming that will fit perfectly on that aluminum piston.
    I could make a micro boring bar but it might be hard to measure the hole accuartely.
    Robert
     
    Last edited: Mar 19, 2017
  17. wildo

    wildo Active Member Active Member

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    See the thread I started on boring small holes. I bought a micro boring bar and while I was able to get a hole to accept a pressed in bearing, measuring was CRAZY hard!! I have a bore gage for practice. I'm using Starrett small hole gages. It's really challenging. So challenging, that I ended up ordering a .1865 + .0002" go pin gage and a .1874 - .0002" nogo gage as an alternative to the small hole gage.
     
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  18. rwm

    rwm Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Planning to make some red brass. 85-5-5-5.

    [​IMG]

    I have about 1.8 kilo of Cu. I have weighed out about 110 g of Pb (from an xray tube) Sn from eBay, and Zn from the usual source. That ugly chunk top left is mystery brass that I am assuming is about 70/30 Cu/Zn. I will add about a kilo of that for volume and that will dilute my concentrations a little. That will be OK as long as there is no Si in it which I doubt. Some of the Zn will burn out during melting too. There is some solder on the pipe which is probably Sn-Sb? I will be happy if I end up around 85,8,4,4. If I can get all the copper into solution this will look really red. The lead will be at least 3% which will help with machinability.
    Any thoughts from you metallurgists out there?
    Robert
     
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  19. intjonmiller

    intjonmiller United States H-M Supporter - Premium Content H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Not a metallurgist, but I assume you checked the dates on your zinc?
     
  20. rwm

    rwm Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Yes sir. All 2.5% copper. I'm sure this won't turn as nice as extruded bar, but I'm hoping it is acceptable.
    R
     
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  21. intjonmiller

    intjonmiller United States H-M Supporter - Premium Content H-M Supporter-Premium

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    I haven't poured any copper alloys yet (I have a LOT of copper and related metals all sorted and waiting for me to get around to it, and I've read a lot on the subject, but no actual pours yet), but it seems to be fairly straightforward based on the quality I see some fools on YouTube producing without any regard for metallurgy, safety, etc. Producing an accurate alloy, a clean form casting, etc. are other matters. But for just casting stock I doubt you'll have much trouble. If you aren't already you should spend some time on alloyavenue.com.
     
  22. rwm

    rwm Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    [​IMG]
     
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  23. rwm

    rwm Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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  24. intjonmiller

    intjonmiller United States H-M Supporter - Premium Content H-M Supporter-Premium

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    What a great casting station! By all means feel free to share more photos or even video of it in use. Your flask looks great as well. Is that your own construction?
     
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  25. rwm

    rwm Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Last edited: Mar 20, 2017 at 8:29 PM
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  26. rwm

    rwm Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    So here is today's result:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    Yes, I cast that shovel :)
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I like the color so far. Lets see how it machines.....

    R
     
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2017 at 9:54 PM
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  27. kvt

    kvt Active User Active Member

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    what size and type is your crucible and where did you get it. I have a bunch of brass, copper, and alum, and would like to start trying to cast some pieces once I get my equipment back together.
     
  28. intjonmiller

    intjonmiller United States H-M Supporter - Premium Content H-M Supporter-Premium

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    I can't speak for him, but I can tell you that the best value I've found is from www.lmine.com. #8 or #10 is about as big as most people care to go for handling alone. Copper and copper alloys get very heavy (remember, as Robert has so conveniently shown here, that you have to build in a sprue and risers in most casting, and that can easily double the volume needed for a pour).
     
  29. rwm

    rwm Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    It is an A6 Super Salamander. Great crucible. $40 on Amazon. Highly recommend.
    This pour was 3 Kg which is about half of an A6. I have an A8 but I only use that for aluminum. Rarely for Gold.
    R
     
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  30. rwm

    rwm Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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