South Bend drum switch options?Wiring questions?

[Ski]

I have a South bend lathe,single phase that has no drum switch. It was set up 220 single phase with a big cuttler Hammer on/off switch.The switch is actually a 3 phase switch with only 2 connections in the switch being used. That is another question as I failed to note which of the connections were used for single phase 220 (L1,L2,L3)? Another question is ,can a pushbutton switch (stop/ forward/reverse) 3 button switch be used instead of a drum switch? I'd like to be able to use reverse. This is a D1-4 spindle machine. It seems it would work as well if not better than the drum switch. I believe there are 3 seperate 2 contact switches in it. That said ,I am no motor expert. I am not sure if I will run it at 120 or 220 single phase at this point. I only have so much breaker panel room and already have 2 - 220 v single phase circuits. Motor is a 1 1/2 hp. Again,I have minimal motor expierience but I am ok working with them and electricity. Can any experts offer some guidance? Ski

 

[JimDawson]

If your motor is wired to be reversible, then I would go with a drum switch. If the motor is not externally reversible then I would get a 3 phase motor and a VFD if you really want reverse. It should have the wiring diagrams on the motor data plate or inside the electrical connection box. If it is an American made motor the wiring diagram should be pretty easy to track down online also.

It is possible to use push button switches, but I have never seen a reversing push button station that would operate the motor directly, I'm not saying they don't exist, I've just never seen one. Normally the push buttons operate relays that actually control the motor current.

As far as the connections on your existing switch it does not matter which 2 terminals you use.

 

[rdhem2]

Mr. Ski;
Jim is correct. Pushbuttons are pilot duty devices and will not handle the full load current of a motor your size. Put a drum switch on it or go first class and purchase a reversing starter off ebay and wire your pushbuttons to it. That way you can install heaters for overload protection also incase the motor has none already. I recently purchased two starters that way. A Square D size "0" for $30 and a Allan Bradley size "0" for $25. Both like new. List price new is over $300. They probably don't sell because most people do not know what they are for. If I can help just send me an email.

Best of luck, get that puppy running and get the SWARF pile growing!!!!!!

 

[Ski]

Re: South Bend drum switch options?Wiring questions? Plus

Thanks a bunch. I'll plan on the drum switch for sure on the 13. My 10L south Bend has a strange setup. It has a big reset box on the back of the lath plus it has a on/off pushbutton switch and it has the drum switch. The drum switch only switches out forward/reverse with the on/off controled by the push button on/off switch. A pain as you have to use reverse thru 2 switches. No big deal unless you a tapping and reversing out about 100 times like I recently did. Does this sound right? It seems the drum switch OFF position should handle the stopping and starting? The 10L will be sold once I finish the 13 so I need to get that one straightened out as well. The motor on it is wired 120 single phase. That is probaly the only odd thing about that lathe. Ski

 

[JimDawson]

That is a bit odd. You're right, the drum switch should be able to handle the For/Off/Rev function. Just let the lathe slow to a near stop before switching to Rev.

 

[mws]

Not sure if this is much help, but I converted my lathe from 3P to Single Phase 220 using the original drum switch. Using a 220/110 motor, either the start winding or run windings are reversed for forward and reverse, but not both. I reversed the run windings on mine keeping one end the start winding attached between the two run windings for 220 (110 across the start) saved some switching and allowed use of the old 3P drum. Most drums work the same from my experience, don't know about your motor.

 

[Ski]

I am waiting for a drum switch for the 13. The motor on the Heavy 10 has a lot to be desired. Not to mention the weird switch setup. I have 3 extra motors I am hoping one will work to replace it with. I need to ck the pulley/shaft on the current motor before I can say one will work. The best one I have is a Baldor Farm Duty 3/4 hp,cat. # FDL3507M,spec 35k631S244. I also have a GE model 5KC49ZG522X with no wiring info so I do not even know if it is reversible. Also a Leeson model M145K17DB29B B in same boat,no wiring info. Looked online with no luck on those 2. Those 2 are both older motors but seem good physically. One needs troubleshooting. All are dual voltage single phase. I got that much from the tags. The Baldor has wiring info including what to swap to reverse. Also the GE and Leeson are 1 1/2 hp. The 10 currently has a 3/4 hp on it and it has been powerful enuff for me. Ski