Solution to my 4-way TP Problem and a Question

The picture shows the current setting, which does look like higher thread/inch setting. Should I move it all the way left? I now know that a big part of not getting a clean cut is that I'm running too slow for aluminum.
Hi,
The threading/feed chart has all the data you need about lever positions and you have said you have a manual which is great. On the saddle there will be different levers. One is for threading,(engages the leadscrew), and another that engages the feed. I'm not familiar with your lathe but the manual should explain this.
Having some basic reference for cutting speeds is good and experience will make things almost second nature.
I would suggest reading some good books on basic lathe operation. 'The Amateur's Lathe' by L. H. Sparey is very good as is 'How to Run a Lathe' by South Bend Lathe Works which although dated covers basics very well.. The "US Army Fundamentals of Machine Tools" is another good one.

I'm attaching the latter two for some holiday reading and hope they help. Once you have the basics nailed things just get easier.
 

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  • How to Run a Lathe.pdf
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  • US_Army_Fundamentals_of_Machine_Tools.pdf
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Tim, forgot to mention that you need to watch your extension. When the work piece extends beyond about 1.5 - 2 times its diameter you should use a live center for added support. This will improve your accuracy and finishes.
 
Norton,
I've got the South Bend book in the original booklet. Not the Army one, though, thanks!
Mikey,
yeah I know, but I haven't worked out how use the draw bar or chucks yet. Only the bar that came with the collet set. And it's friction fit into the spindle. Have to get that out of there and fit a chuck.
thanks!

Tim
 
Much better. Be sure the tip of your tool is dead on center height.
It can get frustrating using shims to get on centre when using a four way holder. A tangential tool holder is a good complement to using shims to get the tool to dead center.
 
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