So I learned a thing today...well several things. Rotary tables

[Sticks]

In my never ending late term informal education via YouTube and the like, I was watching a Stefan Gotteswinter video of him modifying his Deckle Clone dbit grinder (I am getting one soon).

He needed to do a setup on his mill with a rotary table and a component clamped down to the top. I knew that the rotary tables center hole was a Morse Taper (2 or 3 depending on size), what I did not know was there where such things as MT2 and MT3 collets.

He used said collet to hold a pin that was the same as the center bore of his component, thus centering the darn thing to the rotary table.

How many times have I centered the table, then had to center the part I needed to cut on the table? Arrrg.

Lot of wasted time doing that, and making an almost good pin and bushing set for my little RT.

 

[MikeInOr]

Goof information. I did not know that either.

 

[benmychree]

I've seen a lot of goof info here and in other places.

 

[Aaron_W]

They make MT chuck adaptors too, so you can use a chuck with your rotary table.

 

[woodchucker]

Goof information. I did not know that either.

that's what the Clausing mill uses, MT2 Collets. There's a bridgeport mill I think that uses MT2 as well. Would rather have an R8.. but that's what I have.

 

[maspann]

Yeah, retired engineer here - thanks to Stefan, Joe Pie, RobRenz, Steve Barton, Tom Lipton and others, I have served a 4 year YouTube apprenticeship in machining. I learn something new every day!

 

[machPete99]

You can get a taper with a blank end (probably some name for these...), cutoff and face the end so it is just below flush on the RT, drill and ream for some precision 1/2" drill rod. You can make some drill rod stubs having various upper diameters for locating your part on the RT. I think this or similar might be on a Joe Pie video.

 

[f350ca]

My rotary table and indexing head are both MT 2. Bought a set of collets that go up in 1/16ths. use them often. Especially in the indexing head. Much handier than the three jaw for short work.

Greg

 

[WobblyHand]

You can get a taper with a blank end (probably some name for these...), cutoff and face the end so it is just below flush on the RT, drill and ream for some precision 1/2" drill rod. You can make some drill rod stubs having various upper diameters for locating your part on the RT. I think this or similar might be on a Joe Pie video.

https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2394&category=

Arbor, Blank 2MT Drawbar​

Has a soft 32mm diameter end that can be machined. I used one as a plug to center my RT adapter plate. I machined a boss into it that I use to center the RT. Makes it a bit easier.

 

[RJSakowski]

My 12" Enco RT has a !' straight hole in the center.

I installed a 3/8"-16 threaded plate on the bottom side of my RT. I have a 4" three jaw chuck from my Atlas/Craftsman 6x18 which is threaded for 1"-10. I made a short adapter for it that has 3/8"-16" threaded hole and I used one of the studs from my clamp set for a draw bar.

To locate the center, my usual practice is to mount a piece of stock on the RT and move the table appropriate;y off center. Then I mount an end mil and cut a cylinder by rotating the RT. The cylinder will be concentric with the RT axis by definition. I find the center of the cylinder with an edge finder or DTI and zero my DRO. This eliminates any possibility of runout causing an offset in my zero.