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Sheldon tail stock

Discussion in 'SHELDON LATHES' started by dlane, Jul 22, 2017.

  1. dlane

    dlane Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    started on the tail stock, any one know how to get the rear bushing with the witness mark ball oiler off
    tried turning it both ways, no go
    Is it pressed in ?.
    Also the pin that stops the quill from spinning is a little worn is it fixable can't see a way to remove it?.
    Thanks
    IMG_0910.JPG
    The green has to go
     
  2. dlane

    dlane Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Afraid I left some pipe wrench marks on it trying to un screw it I was useing some copper sheet but it cut the copper and gouged the bushing . Should they be right or left handed threads if threaded at all
    Might try some heat on the casting to turn it cc trying not to leave any more marks on it . If I can get it off I'll turn off the marks on the SB10L and make a new witness mark.
    Pressed in I would think pressure from drilling might try to push it out but If pressed in it'll a trick to press out as the casting isn't square on the end .
     
  3. 4gsr

    4gsr Global Moderator Staff Member H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Derrick,

    On both of my Sheldon lathes I have, there are two set screws that hold that piece in place. They are at 90 degrees from each other. Make sure to remove them completely. Once remove, insert some kind of bar from other end and gently drive it out. It's not threaded and should not be that tight.

    Ken
     
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  4. Silverbullet

    Silverbullet Active Member Active Member

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    Not sure but I think the slide pins are screwed in. There may be a cover on the outside access.
     
  5. dlane

    dlane Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Ok didn't see set screws under 5 coats of paint, that will teach me
    Any hope for the quill pin
    Thanks
     
  6. 4gsr

    4gsr Global Moderator Staff Member H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Might try a pair of long reach needle nose pliers. I did not try to remove it on my 15" Sheldon rebuild, just left it alone. And it's been 38 years since I rebuilt the other 13" Sheldon I had, too.

    Yeah, I found out the hard way, too, on the set screws.
     
  7. gcaldicott

    gcaldicott United States Active Member Active Member

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    John Knox - Sheldon Expert who runs the Yahoo Sheldon Group wrote this about the tailstock key:

    This key was not a "drive fit" in the body & you should be able to "jar" it & weasel it out with a needle nose pliers. If this is not fact in your case, remove the quill oil fitting which is directly above the key. With a properly ground semicircular chisel, thru the quill bore in the tailstock casting carefully remove what's left in the bore area so you have a near flat surface inside. Now pilot thru the lube fitting hole, locate the center of the key stem & (the size of this hole was I believe made with a "D" drill (.246"). Go in with like a 1/8" drill, pick up the center of the key & drill in 3/16" to 1/4" deep, now go to a 1/32" or 1/16 larger drill & force it a bit to see if you can make it "grab & spin" the key shank out without injuring the hole. Now turn a piece of 3/8"steel stock to a Dia. (.249 or .250"), cut it off & file it so you have a "T" that fits the 3/16" keyway in the spindle, make sure the top of the key does not rub the top of the keyway in the spindle, drop it into place & install spindle. (notice, quill & spindle have been used interchangeably here)

    Mine was worn badly and I made a new one to replace the old one.
     
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  8. wa5cab

    wa5cab Downloads Moderator Staff Member H-M Supporter-Premium

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    I've no idea how Sheldon did it but Atlas used an Allen headless socket set screw with the end ground to look like a shortl square key. It was screwed into the bottom of the tailstock nose with the ground flats lined up fore and aft and then the ram inserted. Might be worthwhile digging through the 5 coats of paint looking for something.
     
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  9. dlane

    dlane Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Thanks all for the help , wish I ad a direct line to John Knox ,, yahoo no good for me.
    Drilled old key out , made a new one with no slop slight press fit in caseing slides good .
    Any one know original Sheldon colors?. I was thinking of blue gray combo two tone.
    This assembly should be done and boxed up tomorrow
     
    Last edited: Jul 25, 2017
  10. 4gsr

    4gsr Global Moderator Staff Member H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Sheldon color was basic gray. Smoke gray is what I used. Sheldon would paint the lathe just about any color you wanted. Gray blue what you like, go for it!
    Ken
     
  11. dlane

    dlane Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Royal blue and, purple gray I have left over from the SB10L. Found a cool spray rig I forgot about.
     
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  12. dlane

    dlane Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    The way wiper covers "Brass" were kinda beaten up , I made a jig to form new ones , both flat and prismatic. The carriage could use new ones also
    On the SB 10 the top of the covers are open so way oil can be applied to the felt wipers I'm making the Sheldon wiper covers open at the top also. Ordered some f1 felt for the new wipers 1/4" thick.
    The original felt looked 3/16" I'm gona use 1/4" with the new covers.
    Still trying to figure out how best to get the hardened polishing compound off easily and separated from the parts washer purple Zep cleaner, gona try coffee filters in drain hole.
    Pics to come.
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2017
  13. wa5cab

    wa5cab Downloads Moderator Staff Member H-M Supporter-Premium

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    If the existing wiper felts are about 3/16" thick, I would guess that the original material used was 1/4" thick.

    Instead of leaving part of the top open. the way in which the Atlas 10" and 12" wiper holders are made is that in the top there is a 0.109" dia. hole punched. The female part of the punch die must have been slightly countersunk as the outside of the hole is slightly indented. It is a pretty good match-up to the conical tip on the Eagle 66 oil can. So you press the tip into the hole and one or two squirts saturates the felt with (if your alignment is good) none of the oil ending up on top of the cover. You could simulate the indentation by grinding a cone on the end of an old 3/16" pin punch and drilling a 7/64" or 1/8" hole in the end of a scrap piece of flat bar held in a vise. Line up the hole in the cover with the hole in the flat bar and punch the cover hole with the modified pin punch. With the prismatic wiper cover, it would probably be easier to use a larger drill bit to make a partial countersink.
     
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