semi-Diy lathe machine

Like I said, I'm not looking for a super precise machine, and for the parts that absolutely have to be lathed I know someone with a lathe, or possibly someone on this forum would be willing to do it if I mail the stock to them, although I'm super not counting on that.
Also, about spindle bearings I already bought some 1 inch ID tapered roller bearings (small I know).
Oh yup, so what's you're plan?

Where in the world do you live, I can help with a few bits if you need help, I'm still learning myself but I know a heck of a lot more then a did before I tore down a harrison l5 for a "rebuild" 1 year later and I'm still making parts for it.

Finally have paint on the old girl it's waiting for a top coat a new set of belts a VFD and rewiring .

Then scraping ... i hope..

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
 
Oh yup, so what's you're plan?

Where in the world do you live, I can help with a few bits if you need help, I'm still learning myself but I know a heck of a lot more then a did before I tore down a harrison l5 for a "rebuild" 1 year later and I'm still making parts for it.

Finally have paint on the old girl it's waiting for a top coat a new set of belts a VFD and rewiring .

Then scraping ... i hope..

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Boise Idaho area, but I'm currently going to college, so the building won't really start till I get back next summer, but I want to start the planning phase early.

So far the plan is to gather information and flesh out the plan more as I go. What I'm thinking right now, which is obviously up for revision, is to weld a base with two feet and a steel tube connecting them, then to flatten the top of the steel tube as much as possible. Drill and tap copious amounts of holes in the top of it and bolt a 36" x 4" x 1/2" piece of cold roll to it. Scrape the crap out of it to make it as true as possible, most likely with a piece of sheet glass as a crude "surface plate" (I do have a granite counter top to set it on to give the glass a fighting chance at being flat). Then in a similar fashion to the gingery books, make a temporary headstock, most likely out of steel tubing, to bore out the final headstock, also probably steel tubing, (scraping all necessary surfaces along the way) then figure out the carriage and apron. I'm thinking the only things that will have to be machined will be the spindle and the tail stock ram, beyond that I think it can be done with mostly "off the shelf" parts and a 55 gallon drum of elbow grease.

Dang. Run-on sentences galore, and really long post. Sorry for the book over here.
 
Boise Idaho area, but I'm currently going to college, so the building won't really start till I get back next summer, but I want to start the planning phase early.

So far the plan is to gather information and flesh out the plan more as I go. What I'm thinking right now, which is obviously up for revision, is to weld a base with two feet and a steel tube connecting them, then to flatten the top of the steel tube as much as possible. Drill and tap copious amounts of holes in the top of it and bolt a 36" x 4" x 1/2" piece of cold roll to it. Scrape the crap out of it to make it as true as possible, most likely with a piece of sheet glass as a crude "surface plate" (I do have a granite counter top to set it on to give the glass a fighting chance at being flat). Then in a similar fashion to the gingery books, make a temporary headstock, most likely out of steel tubing, to bore out the final headstock, also probably steel tubing, (scraping all necessary surfaces along the way) then figure out the carriage and apron. I'm thinking the only things that will have to be machined will be the spindle and the tail stock ram, beyond that I think it can be done with mostly "off the shelf" parts and a 55 gallon drum of elbow grease.

Dang. Run-on sentences galore, and really long post. Sorry for the book over here.
How will you turn the taper for the taperd roller bearings?

The bed Will need to be Atleast milled to something that resembles "flat" before you start scraping

Can you weld?

Are you going to have a compound slide?

Do the gingerly lathes have bearings or bushings? What are you going to do about a spindle?


Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
 
How will you turn the taper for the taperd roller bearings?

The bed Will need to be Atleast milled to something that resembles "flat" before you start scraping

Can you weld?

Are you going to have a compound slide?

Do the gingerly lathes have bearings or bushings? What are you going to do about a spindle?


Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

The bearings I got include the cup, I think it's called.

The cold roll is already relatively close to flat, I mean if someone has a mill of that size and wants to square it up, I won't look that gift horse in the mouth.

I can "weld," although the craptacular Chicago electric stick/"tig" welder might need to thrown out, worst case, I have friends with better welders, and I'm confident enough in my welds not falling apart.

I *hope* to have a compound slide, chances are that may not work very well, but I'll try...

Gingery lathes have bushings, and for the spindle I'm thinking some sort of shaft that can be machined to fit in the bearings and have some sort of standard taper on the business end to accept a backplate for a chuck. If you can't tell, I'm not to sure about the design of the spindle
 
The bearings I got include the cup, I think it's called.

The cold roll is already relatively close to flat, I mean if someone has a mill of that size and wants to square it up, I won't look that gift horse in the mouth.

I can "weld," although the craptacular Chicago electric stick/"tig" welder might need to thrown out, worst case, I have friends with better welders, and I'm confident enough in my welds not falling apart.

I *hope* to have a compound slide, chances are that may not work very well, but I'll try...

Gingery lathes have bushings, and for the spindle I'm thinking some sort of shaft that can be machined to fit in the bearings and have some sort of standard taper on the business end to accept a backplate for a chuck. If you can't tell, I'm not to sure about the design of the spindle
Threaded spindle will be the easier option.

Sorry I didn't understand, I get it now, I wasn't thinking.

The most recent taperd rollers I installed had a tapered race

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
 
Threaded spindle will be the easier option.

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

I think that's what I have in mind... A taper to align the thing in the spindle and a thread to lock it in place. I haven't really seen how normal lathes attach stuff to their spindles

Like the "type L" in this picture
bdcf9dfff6675442744972b0cd37f4c0.jpg
 
Last edited:
I think that's what I have in mind... A taper to align the thing in the spindle and a thread to lock it in place. I haven't really seen how normal lathes attach stuff to their spindles

Like the "type L" in this picture
bdcf9dfff6675442744972b0cd37f4c0.jpg
Try searching something like "threaded spindle" or "myford spindle nose"

Those a taperd spindle noses much harder to machine. .

Have you never used a lathe before?

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
 
Try searching something like "threaded spindle" or "myford spindle nose"

Those a taperd spindle noses much harder to machine. .

Have you never used a lathe before?

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Twice in high school, one to turn down aluminum all thread from 1/4 to 1/8 to test it in a stress tester and the other time screwing around. Both times on small machines <8" swing

And with the spindle nose I agree, that picture I showed looked like major overkill
 
The Gingery lathe builds its self. It is based on a true flat surface for the bed. Steel warps when welded. I recommend the Gingery method whether you weld up the bed or some other way. Get the bed and ways true and use it for a reference. Torsion is the enemy. The Gingery books are worth much more than the money they cost.
 
The Gingery lathe builds its self. It is based on a true flat surface for the bed. Steel warps when welded. I recommend the Gingery method whether you weld up the bed or some other way. Get the bed and ways true and use it for a reference. Torsion is the enemy. The Gingery books are worth much more than the money they cost.

I don't plan to weld the bed to the rest of the machine, I plan to bolt it. I'm actually taking a lot of inspiration from the gingery lathe, I just think that steel tubing filled with a stiffener of some kind will be stronger, and easier to make, than cast aluminum.
 
Back
Top