Seeking drill bit and bit sharpener recommendations...

[auto.pilot]

My primary work is done at a maker space (Techshop). Finding a sharp drill bit is a constant source of frustration. I'd like to invest in a quality set of bits (standard size) and a bit sharpening tool. I am primarily working in aluminum and steel. Would appreciate any recommendations, since there are so many options.

Thanks

Jim

 

[Dave Paine]

I purchased a Hertel set of 115 drill bits from ENCO last year. Decent drill bits.

I later saw a video recommending Norseman drills. I think this is the same company which also sells Viking drills. If I were purchasing drills again I would look at one of these. Perhaps another person knows the difference.

http://www.norsemandrill.com/

http://www.vikingdrill.com/

I use a Drill Doctor to sharpen the drills. Works for me. Some folks use a platform with a V groove at the desired angle on the grinder.

 

[cjtoombs]

I've got a Drill Doctor 750 that has worked very well and has held up as well. I would get a standard set of 118 degree, Jober length HSS drill bits. The 29 piece set if you are mostly doing basic stuff, 115 piece if you plan on doing a lot of different sizes of tapped holes or complicated work. Buy the best set you can afford, but if you wind up getting the cheap Chinese ones, they work ok, and you can replace the ones you use the most (and wear out or break the most) with good ones as needed. Don't get the fancy pointed ones, as some of these can't be sharpened on the Drill Doctor (split point is fine, I'm talking about stepped point, etc).

 

[GLCarlson]

Drill Doctor 750 works OK. I've had two, and they're way better than a swing fixture or hand grinding- but, at best, just OK.

Jan 2102 issue of HSM had a 4 facet sharpener project (there are several out there). I have found that 4 facet works better than the conical (DD) sharpening style- much more consistent cutting with both flutes, more likely to drill to size. Four (and six) facet seems to be the default standard for CNC.

Precision Twist Drill is another good brand. A 115 bit set (fractions, numbers, letters) will cost about 600 bucks. They'll also last several lifetimes if properly resharpened and not abused. And at those prices, you won't be tempted to loan them to anyone.

Incidentally- a cheap set (from HF) is worth having to regrind for brass only.

 

[mikey]

Jim, since you're mostly working in a Maker space environment, I assume you're carrying in your tools. A 115 piece set is nice but the case is big and heavy. As an option, I suggest you buy the bits in smaller sets. I would buy a 1-60 wire size set first; most smaller holes for tapping screws use these drills. I would buy a fractional set second and a letter size set last. You will need all of them. Buy them in full sets.

Jobber drills are longer and are fine for most work. If I could only have one set, however, it would be a screw machine set. They are shorter, stiff and accordingly more accurate (shorter lever arm). Their length is enough for the vast majority of holes you will drill.

118 vs 135 - both work. Most drills for general work are 118 degree. I have both and both are fine but I find the 118 to drill with less pressure.

HSS vs cobalt - HSS is fine for 99% of your work. Cobalt is really good for stainless or more abrasive stuff but they cost more. I have a cobalt set that I use only when I plan to tap a hole in stainless steel; I push these drills harder so that they cut continuously in the hopes of reducing work hardening. If I'm not going to tap the hole, I use HSS in stainless.

Buy a good 1/4" spotting drill; 120 degree if you use 118 degree drills and 140 degree if you prefer 135 degree drills. They will improve your accuracy re hole location and save your edges.

A Drill Doctor is a good idea if you haven't had a lot of experience grinding drills on a bench grinder. I picked one up because I don't see as well as I used to and grinding smaller drills was becoming a chore. This is a cheap machine that does a decent job and its fast. If you use your drills properly, it won't see that much use so I think its a good investment.

Keep in mind that when drilling, speed is not as important as feed. You should be pushing the drill hard enough so that it is cutting continuously. Most of the wear on a drill comes from spinning it in the hole without cutting. On large drills, I am running slow and pushing it hard. When I'm done, I can only feel a little heat in the bit when I take it out of the chuck. If you cannot keep up with the feed, slow down the speed.

For brands, there are some good ones: PTD, Titex, Cleveland, Triumph and others. I have all of these and more. Makita had a really good fractional set that they no longer sell; it is still may favorite set. Do your homework on brands - the guys will be able to advise you.

 

[David S]

Mike like your recommendation for screw machine bits. I don't have a complete set but do have a selection of smaller ones beside my lathe.

I also have a Drill Doctor. Does it handle the screw machine bit lengths? I have never tried.

David

 

[mikey]

I haven't tried it on the smaller sizes but it works for the longer ones.

 

[JPigg55]

For what it's worth, I heard this on a "Projects in Metal" podcast. It was a short lived podcast with only 3 episodes. http://www.projectsinmetal.com/category/podcast/
It was an interview with a, I think, retired shop teacher. He recommended getting a cheapest set of drill bits from Harbor Freight and a Drill Doctor.

 

[ericc]

Hi. I'm also a Techshop member. I have gotten to like the chowdered (Is that a word?) Harbor Freight bits that they have lying around. Some of them are burned because someone got angry. Their grinder wheels are never dressed well, but lateral sweeping a big fat bit will help the wheel a lot. This is a great way to learn how to sharpen. The only problem is that the grinding room is really dirty. I normally do not wear a mask while I am grinding, but at Techshop, a disposable mask will only last 3-4 sessions. Seems like everyone else is getting the grindin' out of their system too!

 

[mikey]

For what it's worth, I heard this on a "Projects in Metal" podcast. It was a short lived podcast with only 3 episodes. http://www.projectsinmetal.com/category/podcast/
It was an interview with a, I think, retired shop teacher. He recommended getting a cheapest set of drill bits from Harbor Freight and a Drill Doctor.

I can see the logic but have to wonder about the quality of the HF bits. If the steel they use is good and the hardness is consistent then okay. All drill bits are not created equal - try a Guhring or Titex bit sometime.