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rung fu clone RF-45 ZX45 cnc conversion

Discussion in 'MACHINE BUILD LOGS' started by jumps4, Aug 22, 2012.

  1. jumps4

    jumps4 Global Moderator Staff Member Active Member

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    hi dave
    the endmill was 1/2" the rpm was 670 and the feed rate was 1.9 and the depth was .030
    i have an air blast nozzle that mounts to the mill this was a quicky at the end of the day as a test i didnt set up anything just placed it in the center and hit go. i use the feeds and speeds calculator in nfs wizards in mach3. so far it seems conservative but it has never damaged anything i ramp up from there.
    steve
     
  2. jumps4

    jumps4 Global Moderator Staff Member Active Member

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    after hours of running I ran into a temp problem today on the controllers for x and y they will need their own cooling fans on the heat sinks, the flow moving up through the cabinet is not direct enough. there was no damage just trips an alarm light and shuts down the axis. this is also a good reason to rewire the enable circuit to the controllers in series instead so that if one controller drops out the circuit opens and shuts them all down. the way it is now only the one axis stops and the others continue to move destroying the part. if it is cutting an arc it will stop moving 1 axis giving a straight line at full depth. so i learned something from the problem not mentioned in any of the wiring diagrams i have seen. this will only work if enable drops out in an alarm but i will try it. there are no tech sheets for these controllers i even tried the manufacturer. there probably are but they are in chinese
    steve
     
    Last edited: Sep 24, 2012
  3. dustooff

    dustooff Australia Active Member Active Member

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    Hi Steve,
    "this is also a good reason to rewire the enable circuit to the controllers in series instead so that if one controller drops out the circuit opens and shuts them all down. the way it is now only the one axis stops and the others continue to move destroying the part. "

    Are you sure this is the way the controller works? or do you have some extra tricky relay logic going on as well?:whiteflag: My stepper controllers seem to be labelled the same as your unit, and these are Opto inputs for step, direction and enable. Only thing is the enable input when activated with a corresponding 5v line actually disable the driver and the alarm LED is lit. As per the various data sheets produced by these wonderful Asian manufacturers they indicate the enable opto being left unconnected ensures normal operation. And this I can confirm on the test bench. Same applies to my Leadshine servo drivers, all have exactly the same Phoenix connectors.

    regards
    Andrew
     
  4. jumps4

    jumps4 Global Moderator Staff Member Active Member

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    andrew
    I started thinking about that after i typed it. I would need an output of some kind on an alarm to trigger the others to stop. it may sound silly but i wonder if i could do it with sensors mounted over the red led on each driver since there is no alarm output pin. I know there needs to be something to do it. one axis stopping gets exciting. I ordered fans for all the drivers yesterday but i'd like to address the problem further. If i had this to do over i'd use all dq2722m drivers they output an alarm signal but of course the docs are poor
    http://www.wantmotor.com/ProductsView.asp?id=256&pid=75&sid=82
    steve
     
  5. jumps4

    jumps4 Global Moderator Staff Member Active Member

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  6. dustooff

    dustooff Australia Active Member Active Member

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    That should work for your setup, ensure reliable coupling for sensor to alarm LED. It seems that most of the stepper/servo drive units do have in-line resistors to the opto's tailored for 5v activation. If the opto didn't have an in-line resistor then one needs to be added to each opto for a multi-leg wired-or setup, to ensure that the internal LED junction gets activated.
    Some drivers may output a pulse train for alarm, rather than continuous on. My DCS810 servo drives do this, they have 7 alarm pulse sequences (DTC's).
    The more adventurous may hack in an opto to the alarm LED, just check the current limiting resistor for that LED allows enough current for the change in combined voltage across both opto & LED.

    You might need a manual over-ride if for example the drive faults on power up and you need to do diagnostics.

    regards
    Andrew
     
  7. jumps4

    jumps4 Global Moderator Staff Member Active Member

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    these need a full power down to reset. and when the alarm led comes on it stays on no flashing
    when you power up the unit it only turns on the green
    this circuit is the ground for the controllers enable opto no resister needed
    and there is plenty of power the 5v is on its own power supply not the pc
    steve
     
  8. jumps4

    jumps4 Global Moderator Staff Member Active Member

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    ZX45 running at 200 inches per minute
    I got the uc100 usb controller in the mail this afternoon and installed the software
    there are no more missed steps and this thing is scary at 200ipm
    I wont be running over 50 for rapids but the controller problems with windows are solved
    I'm very impressed with this product
    there is still no new z motor from china i didnt think they would send a replacement the lady keeps telling me it's on the way.
    steve

    [video=youtube;1jWF1JW1JnE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1jWF1JW1JnE[/video]
     
  9. Tony Wells

    Tony Wells United States Vice President Staff Member Administrator

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    Looks good, Steve. If you think that rapid is scary, you ought to run something in a 5o taper size 50hp spindle that will do over 2000 IPM. That'll make you pucker. Or a tool changer that will do chip to chip in about 3 seconds. Definitely nerve-wracking. Especially if you have a sadistic (and really, really efficiency conscious) programmer who will rapid up to about 0.050 off the part. You'd never be able to hit the feed-hold quick enough. I always single step through a program at about 50% before I trust a white-knuckler.

    I like how this is coming together.
     
  10. jumps4

    jumps4 Global Moderator Staff Member Active Member

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    thanks tony
    yesterday i bought a 30" box pan break / shear and i'm going to start working on the enclosure. I have a few ideas for a design.
    steve
     
  11. DMS

    DMS United States Active User Active Member

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    CNC, the better, faster way to destroy tooling.

    I may have posted this in another thread but... anyway. For my first CNC project on my mill, I was working on a bracket for the limit sensors. Material was 16ga, CRS sheet. I purchased 4 brand new 4 flute HSS end mills (I figured I should order extras). I then proceeded to destroy them all in the space of about 30 minutes... Trial by fire...

    I managed to finish up with a 2flute, but it was painfully slow.

    My advice is to purchase cheap end mills until you get the hang of things, cause your probably gonna break quite a few. Once you get the hang with the cheap stuff, the good stuff will work that much better ;)
     
  12. jumps4

    jumps4 Global Moderator Staff Member Active Member

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    I got a little done on the enclosure and the cooling fans for the controllers came today $2.95 each new.
    the light sensors for the alarm circuit also came.
    steve

    DSCF0293.JPG DSCF0294.JPG DSCF0295.JPG DSCF0296.JPG
     
  13. 7HC

    7HC Active User Active Member

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    Pretty cool brake you picked up there. The enclosure is coming along nicely.

    What gauge and material are you using?


    M
     
  14. jumps4

    jumps4 Global Moderator Staff Member Active Member

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    i'm using 20 guage and going to spot weld it together. I figured out that to put the entire mill in an enclosure that would allow full travel it would be about 76x48 and that would take up a lot of room for travel i will only be needing once in a while. so i decided to make it a tormach style of enclosure and some moveable shields. I have never used a box brake or spot welder before . the cutting and bending is going well i hope the spot welding goes as easy. the welder is a harbor freight so i will have to be real careful about duty cycle. i'll practice on scrap before i start on the enclosure.
    steve
     
  15. jumps4

    jumps4 Global Moderator Staff Member Active Member

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    here is what i have decided on for an enclosure for now. it is removable panels of different sizes. i didnt want to restrict the machines work envelope by confining it in a ridgid enclosure. there will be more panels made as needed when i get a working flood system set up. the entire setup can be removed in minutes if needed and reshaped per projects needs. the drain holes and sealing the seams has to be done yet. I also included some pics of how the shop is shaping up.
    steve
    [video=youtube;7dxWv7PMS1c]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7dxWv7PMS1c[/video]

    DSCF0330.JPG DSCF0333.JPG DSCF0334.JPG DSCF0335.JPG DSCF0336.JPG DSCF0337.JPG DSCF0338.JPG DSCF0339.JPG DSCF0340.JPG DSCF0341.JPG
     
  16. MGP

    MGP United States Active User Active Member

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    Looking Good !!!!!!
     
  17. jumps4

    jumps4 Global Moderator Staff Member Active Member

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    my mill got it's first wet test today I added the flood cooling and i made a 3/8" wide by 1/2" deep pass with a corncobb 5/8 mill at 2.0 ipm in mild steel. it did it well but it sure makes me nervous to make big cuts. that was as hard as i want to push her ( the machine did nothing wrong i just dont want to cause undue wear ) I like a lot of faster shallow cuts. the enclosure worked well and the stream kept the chips clear. in deep pockets i will need to add air probably i dont think there is enough pressure to push the chips up and out. i need more coolant mix i had 1 bottle of cool mist that said it makes 1 gallon. i needed 1-1/2 gallons to test the pump so i added more water and got rust :lmao::lmao::lmao: thats probably why they say it makes 1 gallon. I also added the cooling fans to the drivers for x and y it was an easy add on just 2 wires from the 15v power supply. i was playing with different microstep settings and now i'm trying 800ppr, i make a lot of very small parts and slow feeds for small endmills and the mill had a sound that would drive you nuts, 800ppr sounds better at low feed rates. it doesnt seem to matter what i set it at there is always one place you will find that the harmonics really get going. hopefully it is at a feed rate i dont normally use much. if i step up from 2 to 50 it will be in there somewhere depending on the ppr. the highest i ran so far was 5000 at real low rates that sounded like static in a radio... the thin stand it on needs about 4 bags of sand in it i think leaning against the sides. the z axis just purrs what ever setting it is at.
    steve
     
  18. jumps4

    jumps4 Global Moderator Staff Member Active Member

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    I am happy to say i am done with this mill until i have or build a 4th axis to install. all of the problems i have been having came down to one mistake in my original setup. being of the more is better club i had set the controllers to 7.5 amps for the 1600 motors when they only draw 3.5 well with no real paperwork to understand how this controller works i have figured out through trial and error after error that i was "sending" 7.5 amps and that was causing the alarms to trip and motor heat. after setting the driver to 3.5 and resetting my steps per inch back up to 5000 per inch she is quieter at any speed and never faulted once in 5 hours of repeated cycles. I tried to make it fault and could not. she is ready to go to work building the parts to cnc my 9x20 lathe and it will be nothing like this build. acme screws and simple circuits.
    any information anyone may want including cad drawings are available just ask i'll be happy to send anything you may need.
    I also built an air mist cooling system to go with my flood system today out of parts i had around an old engine cleaning siphon gun.
    the best i can figure including metal i purchased the new mill and all required parts, shipping and tax i got it done for about 4200
    steve
     
  19. Rbeckett

    Rbeckett Platinum Rest In Peace

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    That is a sweet enclosure and a great looking set up all the way around. Sound like you got it dialed in and hummin right along now too. Congrats on a great build.
    Bob
     
  20. jumps4

    jumps4 Global Moderator Staff Member Active Member

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    thanks bob
    it was fun
    steve
     
  21. jumps4

    jumps4 Global Moderator Staff Member Active Member

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    I ordered a rotary table this morning to convert to cnc for my 4th axis from wholesale tools it was $350 including shipping and tax.
    it is 6" and i have a new 4 jaw chuck to fit it and i'll probably build a trunion table.
    i already have the stepper motor and the power supply and controller were installed.
    I guess i will be adding more to this thread sooner than i expected
    steve

    19900005.jpg
     
  22. 7HC

    7HC Active User Active Member

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    More toys, especially at that great price, has to be a good thing! :))

    Question: As you're setting this up as a CNC fourth axis, won't that make the included index plates redundant?



    M
     
  23. jumps4

    jumps4 Global Moderator Staff Member Active Member

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    i will not need the plates for this setup but i have other rotary tables i can use them on. for $350 to get just the tailstock with it was a deal so i have more parts for future projects. if i ever build anything besides tools it will be an epic moment.
    steve
     
  24. 7HC

    7HC Active User Active Member

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    Ok, another question, and hopefully not reopening an old can of worms, but with the 4th axis rotab having a chuck installed, mounted vertically on the mill table and holding a work piece between the chuck and the tailstock, wouldn't it be possible to cut virtually size and type of gear including worms, with ease (assuming the correct programming is used)?


    M
     
  25. jumps4

    jumps4 Global Moderator Staff Member Active Member

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    yes after making a cutter with the correct shape for the tooth needed
    steve
     
  26. DMS

    DMS United States Active User Active Member

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    Something like this?

    [video=youtube_share;SJQtx80euGM]http://youtu.be/SJQtx80euGM[/video]

    Steve,

    I'm really interested to see your progress on 4th axis. I have been thinking about adding one for myself, but my main concern has been backlash. I am probably over-thinking it like I do everything else.
     
  27. 8ntsane

    8ntsane Active User Active Member

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    Steve

    Thats quite the project you have going on.
    Whats the cost of a project in parts/components for a set up like yours? Is all that wiring as scary as it looks?:thinking:
    Ill be following your project as it progress,s

    :thumbsup:

     
  28. jumps4

    jumps4 Global Moderator Staff Member Active Member

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    yesterday the total was about $4200.00 today it is $4550 with the 4th axis
    the wiring isnt really that bad it is for the most part there are four circuits one for each axis in this one 3 are exactly alike
    steve
     
  29. 7HC

    7HC Active User Active Member

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    That was really fascinating to watch, thank you.


    M
     
  30. jumps4

    jumps4 Global Moderator Staff Member Active Member

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    dms
    the video was good thanks
    the backlash can be adjusted out of the gears but to get a nice tight fit with no backlash and binding the gears have to be polished. once polished they do not bind when tightly meshed. on a smaller one i used tooth paste to polish the gears and let them run together on the drill press at the slowest speed for about an hour. adjusting them tighter from time to time. they mated perfectly. a good washing and light oil and they were good. the rotary tables have a backlash adjustment.
    steve
     

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