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rung fu clone RF-45 ZX45 cnc conversion

Discussion in 'MACHINE BUILD LOGS' started by jumps4, Aug 22, 2012.

  1. jumps4

    jumps4 Global Moderator Staff Member Active Member

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    Re: zx45 milling machine cnc conversion

    I have drawn the x axis ballscrew bearing mount end plates and motor mount plate. I'll do the g-code tomorrow and start milling them out. It is so nice to have the sherline cnc to cut out these parts or this would be taking me months.
    steve

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  2. jumps4

    jumps4 Global Moderator Staff Member Active Member

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    the sherline cut out the brackets to hold the bearing mounts on the ends of the x axis turned out perfect the original alignment pins fit right in. the ballscrew on the other hand was a problem. i tried to use my new lathe to grind the end down to fit the end bearing after cutting the ballscrew to length and it was a dumb mistake, way out of round. I chucked it in my old 9x20 hf with the collet chuck mounted, then used my homemade toolpost grinder and i ground it back round and undersize, then i made a sleeve pressed it on the end and reground to size. this time all mounted and preloaded there is less than .0005 wobble, phewwww i'll post pics of the fix tomorrow.
    steve

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  3. jumps4

    jumps4 Global Moderator Staff Member Active Member

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    I forgot to mention that by reducing the end bracket height so it does not hit the saddle i gained 10" of extra travel. I'm not going to use all of it because of the overhang but a little extra is nice. the stepper motor mount will limit the extra I can use but thats about 3" extra on each end. i'll stop it with the limit switches.
    steve
     
  4. jumps4

    jumps4 Global Moderator Staff Member Active Member

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    I made the ballnut mount and installed everything on the x axis, there was a slight binding at the motor end of travel so i took it all back apart and remeasured everything. the chinese must have drilled the alignment pin holes in the table after assembly because the motor end bracket was .005 higher than the other end. the pins removed and the ends matched. then i rechecked the height of the ballnut mount and found it was .024 to tall. i removed .024 from underside of the table mounting spot and everything is very smooth now. the sleeve and regrinding of the ballscrew end worked out good the collet chuck straightened it out. after running the table with a drill i noticed the couplings do not clamp the screw tight enough the way they were designed so i'm going to grind flats on the shafts and add set screws to the couplings. there is still no new motor from china for the z axis aarrrrgggg

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  5. jumps4

    jumps4 Global Moderator Staff Member Active Member

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    I only spent about an hour in the shop today i needed to rest but i did get the front and back panels cut out of my enclosure and the electronics mounted. man am i glad i prewired, I would have never been able to wire this in the enclosure. I powered it up and everything seems still intact. I still havent wired and tested motors yet. fans are a little loud but really moving a lot of air and i put in the air filter in the bottom. I also put all the screws in the panels i took the pic too soon.
    steve

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  6. Old Iron

    Old Iron United States Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Looking good Steve, That is way be on my little pea brain.:rofl:

    Paul
     
  7. jumps4

    jumps4 Global Moderator Staff Member Active Member

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    thanks paul
    I am trying to take my time and do it once.
    notice the enclosure i used? It is one half of the lathe stand i got with my new lathe. this is a better use for it than holding up a lathe. I'm going to use the other half as a tool grinder stand and bolt it down.
    steve
     
  8. jumps4

    jumps4 Global Moderator Staff Member Active Member

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    at 2:00am my back decided it didnt want me to lay down pill or no pill, so i went out to the shop to work on the y axis.
    this tree frog was waiting for me when i started to put the camera on the tripod so i took his pic. I really pushed the sherline on this piece it was cutting at 5.11 ipm with a 3/16 2 flute hss 3500rpm at a depth of .025 and finished the part in 1 hour and 5 minutes. I'll make the motor mounts and ballnut mount tomorrow . I contacted the company in china today by email and they said they would call the post office about my motor and let me know where it is ??? it has been a month i think it's still on their shelf and they are feeding me eggfooyoung. I may have to use the beat up z motor. it's might be ok once i fix the broken wire but i didnt want to mess with it if they wanted the old one back...

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  9. jumps4

    jumps4 Global Moderator Staff Member Active Member

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    today went ok untill the end I made the rest of the y axis motor mounts parts they just need 8 holes drilled and tapped then installed that came out fine. i made the spacers for the x axis motor mount and they just need drilled and tapped. then i decided to let the mill cut out the x axis motor mount plate and either windows or mach3 got a headache so the last pic is scrap metal my sherline made me. everything was fine all that was left for the program to finish was drill 4 holes for the motor bolts and cut the part out. mach3 did not switch to a slow speed to drill. it plunged in to full depth and a G0 plunge then tried to move to the next hole while still down. I stopped everything reset the mill to zero, checked the g-code and began again making the holes larger to use a through bolt and nut instead of tapping a hole it could be salvaged and the first one went fine the second hole was no where near where it was supposed to be. scrap metal! I flipped the breaker and went in the house tomorrow is another day.
    that is the last part i needed to mount the motors:lmao::lmao::lmao:. i would have thought it was the sherline messing up but it does not speed up when it is acting up it just misses steps. i never had it do this before and i better find out why before i start running the new mill ( it wont be on that pc for sure )
    steve

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  10. jumps4

    jumps4 Global Moderator Staff Member Active Member

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    everything that went wrong yesterday was my fault i was too tired to be in the shop after no sleep the night before. there was nothing wrong with windows, mach3 or the sherline, i set it up wrong and the recentered on the big cut out and not the center of the part duhhh
    today almost started the same as the power went out while running but i reset everything and completed the parts i needed to install all 3 axis. i just need to make covers to keep swarf out. tomorrow i'll install and adjust everything. the lift cylinders came today and next i will start work on the limit switches and brackets for the cylinders.
    steve

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    Last edited: Sep 18, 2012
  11. hq308

    hq308 Australia Active User Active Member

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    Nice work Steve, keep the updates coming!
     
  12. jumps4

    jumps4 Global Moderator Staff Member Active Member

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    I put all the parts together and the X and Y axis are completed and work smooth with no backlash if i try to turn the screw at all the table moves, reversing direction is instant movement no free movement ( I wonder if i should leave a tiny bit like the sherline for heating up, I probably will for break in. and use mach3 backlash compensation) Z axis is still waiting for a motor but everything is made and ready for install and final adjustment. right now I could hook the motors up and run the mill but i'm not going to yet. I want to finish it first I know me I'd start using it and that would be it. I want to design a limit switch system that is adjustable so that before running the program i can set stops into the machine that make it almost impossible to hit the table, vise, or anything unplanned making them more useful than just the end of travel. I also want to design and build the enclosure and a flood cooling system.
    steve

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  13. MGP

    MGP United States Active User Active Member

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    Looking Good Steve!!!!
     
  14. jumps4

    jumps4 Global Moderator Staff Member Active Member

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    thanks mike
    all i did today is clean adjust assemble and make sure every bolt is tight it is 12 wire connections away from starting to move on it's own. I moved it out of the middle of the floor and i need to clean up my mess. It is not leaning my tripod is tilted
    steve

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  15. jumps4

    jumps4 Global Moderator Staff Member Active Member

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    ITS ALIVE!!!!
    boy do i have to do something about the mill stand vibration this noise will drive me nuts
    i wired the motors and tested everything today. i have not calibrated anything yet but it is close
    the max ipm right now is set to 50 to keep things safe
    here is a video excuse the noise and ugly old man
    steve[video=youtube;3PXo4sqKEyY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3PXo4sqKEyY[/video]
     
  16. 7HC

    7HC Active User Active Member

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    Seems to be the short travel (in and out from the column) that's causing the problem.
    Side to side sounded fine as did the Z.

    I know you'll have the issue figured out by the time you read this though. :)


    M
     
  17. jumps4

    jumps4 Global Moderator Staff Member Active Member

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    there is nothing wrong with the mill it is the flimsy base cabinet sides vibrating and making all the noise the motors do humm but the cabinet is just amping the noise up
    steve
     
  18. jumps4

    jumps4 Global Moderator Staff Member Active Member

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    I'm going to go check the gib adjustment and hang the head maybe some more weight will shut up the base
    steve
     
  19. jumps4

    jumps4 Global Moderator Staff Member Active Member

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    I really didnt go into all the settings and wiring in this thread because everything is basically the same as the other cnc i helped MGP just build
    the parts are the same wiring and the same breakout board so the pin settings are the same also
    the ballscrews are the same pitch
    so everything is in this other thread if your wanting the setup and wiring
    http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php/6680-X2-Mini-Mill-CNC-Conversion
    the only differences are the 110v circuits for 4 power supplies and the solidstate relay circuit
    steve
     
  20. 7HC

    7HC Active User Active Member

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    In that case maybe just slap a sound deadening pad on the inside of each wall of the cabinet?
    They're commonly used on the inside of auto body panels. You don't need the expensive stuff used for optimizing sound systems, just the heavy asphalt ones with self adhesive backing. Most paint and body supply places carry them.

    Another way would be to tack a length of angle iron to the inside of each wall, which would change the frequency at which it resonates.


    M
     
  21. jumps4

    jumps4 Global Moderator Staff Member Active Member

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    thats a good idea M
    thanks
    steve
     
  22. jumps4

    jumps4 Global Moderator Staff Member Active Member

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    I have the mill tuned and calibrated ready to make swarf
    the cabinet still rattles but the mill is smooth and dead on
    it is running a 26" x 9" route at 18 ipm in the video
    z axis needs nothing the motor makes no difference running up as it does down and tuned in perfect so i dont need the lift cylinders as per my original plan for the 4200 motor it doesnt even notice the weight of the head.
    tomorrow I will make something for the first time and measure it after.
    now i need to buy a finger brake and shear and start on the enclosure
    steve
    [video=youtube;0QVDDqW-O8M]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0QVDDqW-O8M[/video]
     
  23. jumps4

    jumps4 Global Moderator Staff Member Active Member

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    thanks shawn i have been planing this build for years
    steve
     
  24. jumps4

    jumps4 Global Moderator Staff Member Active Member

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    run a first test cut today on a 1" circle and it was .001 out of round i thought i was all set until i checked repeatability in 20" and I'm loosing steps i lost .045 in 20" on average
    I tried recalibrating same thing on long runs
    I moved mach3 up from 25khz to 35khz and got an improvement, same old problem windows operating system and mach3 not playing well together.
    I ordered a UC100 usb controller from cnc4pc ($110.00) to boost my khz from 35 to 100 and then increase my steps per to 20,000
    I had planned on a smooth stepper in my original parts list and decided to try it without one. it didnt work good enough, now i'm opting for the uc100 because it is a direct plug in to my breakout board and uses usb for com.
    time for the mills first oil change
    steve
     
  25. 7HC

    7HC Active User Active Member

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    Just looked that one up, they certainly pack a lot into a simple DSUB25 shell!

    I like the fact that it takes a lot of the load from the computer CPU, so allowing the use of a lower spec computer than would be usual.
    You could justify the price on that alone.


    M
     
  26. jumps4

    jumps4 Global Moderator Staff Member Active Member

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    7hc
    plus the fact i dont have to rewire my panel to use the uc100 it just plugs in to parallel port on the controller and a usb in to it.
    made a few small parts for a mercury outboard on it today it is dead on on small moves it looses track on long transitions it's in full use now.
    i need to get some sheet metal and design an enclosure.
    steve
     
  27. jumps4

    jumps4 Global Moderator Staff Member Active Member

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    Today went really well a little more tuning while i'm waiting for the new controller and i milled a 1" circle in hot rolled steel for the first time today. it went great I have never had a mill to cut steel like this. i set the machine to 1.9 ipm and a per pass depth of .030 it took 46 minutes to reach a depth of .5 with a $2.00 reground hss endmill i got off ebay. the finish is really smooth and the final piece was 1.001 on x axis and 1.000 on y, it is getting better all the time for accuracy. when It first finished i touched the part and endmill and they were not even warm.
    here is a video and a couple pics.
    now I have to learn how to mill steel i have never had a mill that would do it before.
    steve[video=youtube;0vY1EVfDdNE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0vY1EVfDdNE&feature=youtu.be[/video]

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  28. Old Iron

    Old Iron United States Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Its really doing a good job eating the hot roll steel, I bet your really happy today I'm glad things worked out for you.

    Paul
     
  29. jumps4

    jumps4 Global Moderator Staff Member Active Member

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    I am but now i have to start a thread to ask a bunch of questions on milling steel I'm new to this my other mills just would not do it well.
    steve
     
  30. DaveSohlstrom

    DaveSohlstrom United States Good bye Active Member

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    Steve

    couple of questions if I could. What size end mill? What RPM.

    The other thing to note is lots of folks say that recutting your chips is a bad thing. I have a Fog Buster mist coolant system I use on my lathes and mills. It keeps every thing kool and the chips blown out of the cut.

    You have done a very good job of converting this mill. I think you will be making a lot of chips with it.

    Don't know if you have looked at Gwizard.com. They have a great program for figuring best feeds and speeds for lots of materials. I'm to the point I don't make a cut till I check to see what the program says I should use for feed and speed.

    Dave
     

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