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rung fu clone RF-45 ZX45 cnc conversion

bloomingtonmike

Active User
Active Member
Ugra CNC (Andy) will test out the spindle you buy from them and send you video of run out on the spindle you are buying. Made me feel a bit better than risking junk bearings from a china spindle delivered from china.

Also a the WJ200 Hitachi VFDs are nice and make adding a brake resistor pretty easy if you want one of those later.
 

Roadstercycle

Iron
Registered Member
Hi Steve, don't know if you still are watching this thread but just wanted to say thanks as I am in process of building a I.H. Charter oaks machine and am using your Z axis setup as it is a nice, clean and well engineered setup. I am of course going to use the 2- 1600 in oz units and the 4200 in. oz for the Z axis. Again Thanks for sharing your great build.
 

jumps4

Global Moderator
Staff member
Active Member
Hello Roadster
I'm still around and receive notifications if there is activity.
If you have any questions I'd be happy to help.
It was a fun build and to this very day the mill is as solid as the day I first built it.
Steve
 

Roadstercycle

Iron
Registered Member
Steve, Glad your still around. I did have a couple questions about the Z bearing mount. Although you never mentioned it if I remember correctly you actually cut off the stock mounting holes to make it fit in the column, that's what it looks like anyway. Any help on this would be wonderful. I believe I already have it thought out but since your the master on this one I thought I'd ask. No sense in reinventing the wheel. Thank you on advance. Jack
 

jumps4

Global Moderator
Staff member
Active Member
Hi Jack
in post 43 the pics show the bearing I used, it is an option available instead of the block I used for x and y.
if the diameter of your shaft is say 15mm for the bearing ID then the part number you need is a FK15 in ebay, the bearing prefix for the x an y mounts I used were BK. see ebay item number 161195513991 as an example.
Steve

fk15.jpg
 

jumps4

Global Moderator
Staff member
Active Member
I forgot to add that these bearings from China are not plug and play
take the bearing apart and clean it well making sure the bearings are facing in opposing directions. the thin part of the outer races face out, opposite from each other. I have received them assembled wrong. also most of them require a thin shim between the outer races or you will not get any preload when you adjust the nut on your ball-screw. the inner races will contact each other before you have preloaded the bearing. the races fit snug in the housing so you will not notice this preload issue until they have been run under load. I just shim them all, then use the nut to set my preload.
Once you have done this they are fine with no problems, mine have been running for years.
Steve
 

Roadstercycle

Iron
Registered Member
Steve, thanks, I did realize that after I got mine and remembered your posts. My seals where there but some backwards and bearings backwards. I did have to modify the Z axis bearing mount and keeper to resemble pretty much the FK15 since the Chinese are out for the Chinese new year and parts would not arrive until after the 15th of March.
Jack
 

jumps4

Global Moderator
Staff member
Active Member
I checked it out it's looking great.
I noticed this week when A friend asked me to bore an engine block for him that I couldn't do it. the block was 12" tall and I needed to bore 6" down. ( diesel ) my clearance was only 16" above the table.
There is a lot of wasted stroke in the z axis on these machines.
The spindle can come down and hit the table with no tool in it, and there is still about an inch left in the z down travel inside the column. where you are at in your build right now would be a good time to add a riser block to the z column to gain this wasted movement. A 4 or 5 inch riser would really make the machine more useful and with the quill travel the spindle can still reach the table.
I'm going to add to mine as soon as I find the material.
Steve
 

Roadstercycle

Iron
Registered Member
Just when I was going to put the column back on you through an awesome curve ball into the mix, can't put it back together now without doing this.. What are you going to use? Aluminum block?

Jack
 

jumps4

Global Moderator
Staff member
Active Member
well since i'm cheap the aluminum will probably be my choice unless I can find something else
I'm in search mode...
my thought on machining it flat and parallel to the mill table is to mount a grinder to the table to grind the top of the
riser before mounting the column.
Steve
 

jumps4

Global Moderator
Staff member
Active Member
I have a friend with an old machine shop I'm going over tomorrow to check his scrap pile
he has trailers full of materials. I may get lucky and find a nice chunk of cast there
I know me if i put the aluminum in, I'd still be looking for something to replace it, so I'll be patient.
Steve
 

Roadstercycle

Iron
Registered Member
Steve I wonder if I could pick your brain on the driver setup on the Z axis 4200. I found where you set the the 1600s at 5000 and the amps at 3.5. I'm nervous about the Z.

Jack
 

jumps4

Global Moderator
Staff member
Active Member
I'm heading into the shop now I'll take pics of my settings and post them
please give me your motor and driver part numbers so
I can check to make sure they are the same
Steve
 

Roadstercycle

Iron
Registered Member
Steve your awesome. My motor # 110BYGH201-001, driver DQ2722M. Wow this will really take the guess work out of it. Thank you for your help. I hope to up and running or testing I should say in a couple days.
 

jumps4

Global Moderator
Staff member
Active Member
the settings I gave you are correct we have the same motors and drivers
now the fun begins, there is for me nothing like seeing everything going for the first time
Steve
 

Roadstercycle

Iron
Registered Member
Thanks Steve the Z works awesome with a little help from you and Hubbard CNC. They sell a little pulse generator that you connect to instead of having to use a computer. I'll use it to move the head quickly for small jobs so I don't have to turn on the computer.
 

jumps4

Global Moderator
Staff member
Active Member
the handiest thing I have added to my machine is this
it's the cheapest and works perfect I have 3 of them. both mills and my lathe
$_12.JPG
 

Roadstercycle

Iron
Registered Member
Well I just ordered one from them too. I'll give it a try for that price. I've actually been using a usb radio keyboard that works great too but this looks promising.
 

Roadstercycle

Iron
Registered Member
Hi Steve, for reason I can't open your pictures of your motor tuning today. I was able to a couple days ago. I'm lodged in but it says error. I am tuning motors today and I was going to reference your as a start or finish???
Any chance you can PM me?
 

jumps4

Global Moderator
Staff member
Active Member
here is a copy of my zx45.xml file, You will have to unzip it.
copy it to your mach3 directory and it will show up in your list when you start mach3 loader
ZX45Mill, open up ports and pins when it first opens and make sure all pin setting are the same as yours
disable a axis if you don't have one.
once you have checked all the pin settings you can turn on the power to your controller and test it.
the other zip file is pictures of my screens same as in post above
Steve
 

Attachments

TomS

Active User
H-M Supporter-Premium
Hi Steve. I think you answered this question for me before but I can't find the post. Question is what breakout board are you using? I have the same motor and driver kit as you. As I recall you said the board that came with the motor/driver kit didn't work all that well. I'm also planning on using the UC-100 from CNC4PC.

Thanks for your help.

Tom S
 

jumps4

Global Moderator
Staff member
Active Member
Hello Tom
this is not the same seller but it is the same board
Ebay item number
261213650116
also the Uc100 is shipped with a gender changer now
Steve