Rotary Table ?

[mws]

So, here's what I'm wondering. About half the time I use the rotary table I find the hand wheel interferes with where I'd like to clamp it down. Looking at other tables this seems to be the common configuration, where the handwheel interferes with the mounting plane(s) of the table. Why would this be? I'm seriously considering turning a new wheel to alleviate this problem. Would that be a bad idea, and why?

Thanks
Mark

 

[Bill Gruby]

Mount the RT to a plate and reset the mount holes onto plate anywhere you want them. Problem solved easier than making a new wheel.

"Billy G"

 

[Wreck™Wreck]

The other option is an NC mill, they have no hand wheels, problem solved.

 

[Uglydog]

the hand wheel interferes with where I'd like to clamp it down. ... Looking at other tables this seems to be the common configuration, where the handwheel interferes with the mounting plane(s) of the table.

MWS,
Would you happen to have a pic of the problem? I don't have a problem with my RT. That I know of....

Daryl
MN

 

[darkzero]

A 6" vise is overkill for a RF45 style mill. A 4" is more appropiate for that size mill & IMO 5" max. I have a 5" GMT vise on my PM45 & it's slightly too big. Not enough Y axis travel to make use of the 5" full capacity. Better to save your money rather than getting something too big & most importantly the weight. I take my vise of the table quite often, a 6" is still light enough for me to be carried by hand but I'm glad I have a 5". I also have a 4" vise as well. I prefer the 5" though.

But those GMT 6" Premium vises are pretty nice. I'd love to have one but don't need one on my current mill. But if you plan on upgrading to a full size knee mill in the future than the 6" will be perfect.


Here's what the 5" looks like on my mill.



I couldn't even complete this cut without my bellows & DRO scale getting in the way. Not enough Y travel & the 5" vise is not even maxed out.



Here's what a 6" vise looks like on another PM45 (gt40's)
View attachment 253544

 

[mws]

Bill,
Actually, the new hand wheel would take but a few minutes to make. Making a plate to lift the table 1" would also require that I ground or scrape it parallel. That's NOT happening. I'll turn a smaller wheel tomorrow. For now I just sat it on top of a few 1-2-3 blocks. I seldom use the RT actually, preferring to use the dividing head (not Chinese!) or the built in DRO functions on the mill. The RT sees most of its use in the wood shop for jig making.

Daryl,
Hopefully I can overcome some of my posting issues with pictures. As you can see, vertically the wheel misses by only 0.100" or so but horizontally its needs an 1" to clear the table. I included a pic of the eccentric that came in the RT originally. It was unusable! After the new eccentric and cleaning up the bore its actually a workable RT. I think CME stands for Chinese Mad Excrement. I could be wrong, but I got what I paid for.

I was actually hoping someone knew the philosophical reasoning behind making a tool that cannot sit on a flat surface. The solution to my problem is trivial. But as always I appreciate everyone's input. After all, I've never learned anything from listening to my own specualtion.

Mark

 

[darkzero]

I was actually hoping someone knew the philosophical reasoning behind making a tool that cannot sit on a flat surface.

Doesn't matter even if it could sit on a flat surface and clear the handwheel. The handwheel assy still has to swing down to disengage the worm. I have no idea who designed the rotary table, they all are similar in base operation. A completely new design would have to invented.