Rotary Table Questions

FanMan

FanMan

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Mar 14, 2013
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I've put it off for a couple of years, now I have an imminent project to justify buying a rotary table. I'm figuring on a 6" one because anything larger would seem to be too much for my Jet 15 mill/drill. Don't want no name cheapo ($150), can't spend big bucks, Phase II and Vertex seem right, and from what I've heard the Vertex sounds like the way to go. I'm looking at this one on ebay. It's billed as "Accura/Vertex. I asked, and the seller says, "It is from the VERTEX factory in Taiwan... it is a VERTEX product we sell and own ACCURA but source these from VERTEX." So presumably it's like many others; one manufacturer and many different name plates depending on who's selling it.

I don't need a chuck or dividing plates, I want it mainly to cut curves and such (I can XY any bolt circles). I don't own a lathe, I turn small short parts in the mill, with a rotab I can make larger round parts and larger holes in any workpiece small enough to clear the column as I rotate it.

Newbie question: Like most rotabs, it has a MT2 center hole. , so how do you use the center hole? Can I get a MT2 plug to go in the hole with a projecting cylindrical button that I can use to center my work? Or is that the wrong approach?
 
I got a 8" vertex , has a mt3 center , I cut the mt3 j33end off and bored a 3/8" reemed hole for a 3/8" dowell , I also added a fixture plate that centers on the mt3 stub , also made plug that is a snug fit in spare lathe chuck with a reemed 3/8" hole in center for locating Chuck then bolted down to plate

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The few times I've used it works good.
 
I did much the same as Derrick did, but left the JT taper on the arbor. I use the factory arbor center hole at the end of the JT taper to center the rotab. I put a pin with an accurately centered 60 degree point in a collet, install the MT adapter in the rotab, and then run the quill down to engage the 60 degree center hole in the arbor center. Lock the spindle when the two centers are pressed snugly together and then tighten the rotab to the mill table.. That is the quick and dirty method, and is accurate enough for most work. For more accurate work, center the JT taper by swinging a dial test indicator mounted in a collet around it and dial it in. The other beauty of leaving the JT taper attached is that the shoulder under the JT taper gives you an easy way to extract the MT taper from the rotab while it is mounted to the table, using a small pry bar.
 
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Not trying to be the monkey wrench…but. I have a RT. Had it for maybe 40 years. Can’t say I can recall ever using it? Guess it’s because the darn thing is soooo heavy and I don’t get the enjoyment as I do from other set-ups. Don’t get me wrong, I make arcs and such, but you can be inventive and find other ways…Dave
 
Dave, if you can tell me how to cut an accurate 4.5" diameter and a slightly smaller diameter trepanned groove in a 1/4" plate without a rotary table (or CNC or a lathe), I'm all ears.
 
Don’t know all your details? A boring head comes to mind. NOTE: when using a boring head, check the construction/connection of arbor to head. If it’s threaded, make sure it will not unscrew if using the boring head in a other than normal operation.
 
Hmmm, yes, a boring head (which I don't have either) could do it. I'd need reversed cutters, since my mill isn't reversible. But for this project and some others I think the rotab (which I ordered this morning) is the way to go.
 
chips&more said:
Not trying to be the monkey wrench…but. I have a RT. Had it for maybe 40 years. Can’t say I can recall ever using it? Guess it’s because the darn thing is soooo heavy and I don’t get the enjoyment as I do from other set-ups. Don’t get me wrong, I make arcs and such, but you can be inventive and find other ways…Dave
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RJSakowski said:
How would you cut a 90º arc?
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I too would love to hear some examples of how you, Dave, or anyone gets around using a RT. Not trying to challenge, just trying to learn. Thanks, JR49
 
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