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Repairs And Upgrades On My Burke #4

Discussion in 'BURKE-US MACHINE TOOL & BARKER MACHINES' started by mark_f, Apr 10, 2015.

  1. mark_f

    mark_f Global Moderator Staff Member H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Recently I acquired a new (to me) saddle and table for my Burke #4 mill. It has made such a great improvement over the "FrankenBurke" setup I had, But has led me to some things that need additional attention.

    The first thing was , my old converted table had a 7/16" slot , the new table has a 1/2" slot. The 7/16" hold down set works fine but the T nuts are a little sloppy, so I made some new ones. I took a .900" x .500" bar and milled a step on each side , the sawed it into .875" lengths and drilled and tapped it for 3/8-16.
    T nuts for Burke mill.jpg
    These are the finished T nuts and they fit the Burke table perfectly. I stopped the tap early so the last thread in the hole is not complete and the studs will stop instead of screwing through and hitting the table. ( a little extra work , but worth the effort).

    The next item on my list for this machine is the vertical head was shop adapted with a long shaft and bar to be used in the top overarm hole in the machine. While this gave more room between the table and head, it required a separate drive or the use of the backwoods hillbilly setup they came up with to drive it from the spindle with pulleys on the back (which worked poorly at best). I wanted to take it back to the factory mounting but the parts are about... no are impossible to find. I need three parts and decided to make them.

    First up is a new shaft for the vertical head. I have the drawing for the factory shaft , but decided to leave off the B&S 9 taper and have a 3/4" stub to go in a collet. This will make it smaller and easier to leave on the machine and just swing up when not in use. I got a piece of 1 1/4" CRS bar stock to turn the 1.125" shaft. I have never had the need to turn between centers till now. this was the only way to make this on my lathe due to length. I also did not have a large enough lathe dog for this ....soooooo I fabricated one that worked nicely.:D

    make shift lathe dog.jpg
    This is my home made lathe dog. a steel ring and a bent carriage bolt with a set screw in the bottom.


    turning shaft between centers.jpg
    Here , turning the shaft between centers.
    new shaft for vertical head.jpg
    After milling a key way the length of the shaft, it fits perfectly. I made the shaft three inches longer than the factory shaft so the head can be moved out farther on the overarm for more versatility.

    Next item needed is an easy one to make. The eccentric busing for the mounting plate. I turned a piece of 3" diameter CRS to 2.250" diameter leaving a .250 flange the 3"diam. and then bored a 2" hole through it .050" off center.
    Burke mill vertical head parts.jpg
    Of course , the last piece is the mounting plate. Burke used cast iron , but a chunk of cast iron this size came with a $100 price tag. I decided a $15 piece of 1" thick steel bar stock was a better idea. In the photo, you can see the new shaft in the head, the eccentric bushing ( I will slit the one side before installing) and the mounting plate , so far. I have milled the 90 degree slot for the head to be able to tilt and started the fist hole. As soon as I bore the holes and make the pinch bolt, I will have the machine back to like factory . I Hope to finish this up in the next couple days.

    After this is done, I have a D.C. motor and controller to run the power feed with instead of pulleys and belts off the spindle. It will give me infinite settings for feed rates.
     
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  2. randyc

    randyc United States Active User Active Member

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    Those Burkes are very nice mills; industrial quality, well-respected in their day and perfect for HSM needs. (I liked your unique lathe dog, by the way.)

    I never felt that my shop was complete until I obtained a horizontal mill. Here's a detailed description of my old German beauty if you haven't already seen it:

    http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/an-unusual-horizontal-milling-machine-very-long-post.32488/

    Those unfamiliar with smaller horizontal mills that are also equipped with a vertical head probably have little appreciation of how beefy these little machines can be ! The fact that the vertical head is supported both inboard and outboard makes them much more rigid than the typical vertical (turret) mill that is half again as large.

    The only real drawback is the lack of a quill and that can even be worked around with the head turned horizontal. The rapid-traverse "X" handwheel is used for "Z" travel in this configuration.

    P1010883.JPG
     
  3. mark_f

    mark_f Global Moderator Staff Member H-M Supporter-Premium

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    That is cool. I never thought of using my vertical head that way. thank you for the suggestion.
     
  4. randyc

    randyc United States Active User Active Member

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    De nada - thank YOU for the interesting post. Everyone likes tool porn :)
     
  5. mark_f

    mark_f Global Moderator Staff Member H-M Supporter-Premium

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    today I got most of the mounting plate done for the vertical head. I mounted it up to check fit and even ran it for a few minutes. it works great.
    vertical head 1.jpg
    vertical head 2.jpg
    vertical head 3.jpg I still have to slit the top and add the pinch bolt clamp, but that is about it and this mill is back to factory condition. I left the spindle extra long so I can slide the head out if needed for more versatility. It runs nice and smooth. I am going to polish it up, paint it and polish the head up. I will post the finished photos hopefully tomorrow.
     
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  6. woodtickgreg

    woodtickgreg United States Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Mark, I just got caught up with this thread, great job!:cheer:
     
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  7. mark_f

    mark_f Global Moderator Staff Member H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Well, the vertical head for my Burke mill is finished. I cut the plate and installed a pinch bolt clamp and gave it a coat of paint. The burke is pretty well all fixed up. I still have to mount the motor for the power feeds.
    vertical head 10.jpg
    vertical head 11.jpg It is so nice to have this mill restored to factory condition and working correctly.
     
  8. dgehricke

    dgehricke United States Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Mark,
    I also own a Burke #4 with the 20" Universial table and the vertical head, after a few spins around the block I opened the vertical head and noticed no lube for the gears. My question is what are you using for grease in the vertical head?? I've uploaded a photo of mine since the photo it has been updated a little and I made some parts for it and I have another the smaller table for parts. Looking forward to your response.
    Thanks and Regards
    dgehricke

    millingmachine.jpg
     
  9. woodtickgreg

    woodtickgreg United States Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Wow, that little burke is in great condition, even has the swivel table, too cool. I have all the power feed stuff for mine but never reinstalled it. The man I purchased mine from passed away and his son sold it to me. He rebuilt the vertical milling attachment and rebushed it so everything is quite tight. So tight that it has seized up a couple of times after long use, I do run it pretty hard. So I opened her up and turned the shaft on my lathe with some sand paper to give it just a little more clearance and that was all it needed. The grease that was in it was a dark brown stinky grease, smells like gear lube. I have found some spindle lube for lawn mowers that smells like it so I pack it with that, it is kind of a thin grease so I keep her filled real good. The particular grease I use is for exmark commercial lawn mowers. I don't know who makes it or if it is even the right kind, but it works. And I can assure you a commercial mower spindle works under far higher load and rpm than our little burkes.
     
  10. mark_f

    mark_f Global Moderator Staff Member H-M Supporter-Premium

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    I filled my vertical head with a high pressure bearing grease. It works great and don't get hot. Your mill looks fantastic.
     
  11. dgehricke

    dgehricke United States Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Thanks all for the info about the grease for the vertical head,a big help.
    Thanks again and regards
    dgehricke
     
  12. mark_f

    mark_f Global Moderator Staff Member H-M Supporter-Premium

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    The steel plate I made to hold my vertical head , while it does function, has its drawbacks and problems. I would greatly appreciate if anyone out there that has one could make a drawing with dimensions for this plate to hold the vertical head. I am going to have to make one as I have been unable to locate one.( they are as scarce as unicorn crap). A fellow I helped once said he had that plate he got in a box of stuff at an auction. He didn't know what it was . He was supposed to bring it to me but .... He didn't show up. I am tired of fighting this piece of steel. I have to bite the bullet and make one.
     
  13. Glenn Brooks

    Glenn Brooks H-M Supporter - Premium Content H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Mark, I have a vertical head that came with the Burke I am restoring. Haven't used it yet, but will look tomorrow and see if it is complete with mounting bracket. If so, I can try to lift some dimensions and send you a drawing of what ever I might have... Actually don't remember what the mounting bracket looks like - as the Burke isn't fully reassembled yet, and some parts are all in a box.

    Glenn
     
  14. mark_f

    mark_f Global Moderator Staff Member H-M Supporter-Premium

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    I would really appreciate that. It is an easy part to spot. I know it is cast iron, about 10" long , has a slot for 90 degrees. The distance between the top and bottom hole is important. I'm going to have to bite the bullet and buy a really expensive hunk of cast iron to make one and I sure don't want to make a mistake. That hunk of iron is close to $100.
     
  15. dgehricke

    dgehricke United States Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Mark,
    Here are some photos of my vertical head on my Burke #4 The plate you made is spot on the only difference would be added weight as the original factory mount is a casting and the split bushing with eccentric offset is 2.375 Dia. the hole for the shaft of the head is 1.655 at the bushing. the unit is 8 " OAL and the width is 4.5 " at the top and tapers down to 3.625" at the bolt to secure it.
    The size of the overarm is 2 " dia as you are already aware. I'll try to get a drawing posted but it will only be a sketch to give you a general idea of its shapes.If I can be of any further assistance let me know glad to help.
    Regards
    dgehricke
     

    Attached Files:

  16. dgehricke

    dgehricke United States Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Mark,
    heres the sketch.
    Regards
    dgehricke
     

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  17. mark_f

    mark_f Global Moderator Staff Member H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Thank you. Now to order a piece of cast iron.:eek: It is expensive.
     
  18. dgehricke

    dgehricke United States Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Mark,
    That is a lot of swarf and cast iron WOW.
    Good Luck if you need anything else that I can be of help holler at me.
    Regards
    dgehricke
     
  19. mark_f

    mark_f Global Moderator Staff Member H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Yea, but it will cut easy. I figure a block 1 1/2" thick and 9" long will do the trick. It runs right at $100 delivered. Yes, a bit of work but I got everything fixed up on this mill and this is the last piece. I made new screws and nuts for the knee and y axis. I am going to make a new nut for the table. This mill will be better than when it was new.
     
  20. bosephus

    bosephus United States Active Member Active Member

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    Mark ... that darn fellow with the bad memory sure feels bad for completely letting that slip from his mind until he found this thread .
    And your right I didn't know how important that piece is . I have it somewhere still .. along with an arbor that I'm pretty sure is either bent or has a messed up taper .

    I'll be away from the house untill Saturday morning .. but I just put a large reminder on my refrigerator . Soon as I get back home it will be my first priority to find it
     
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  21. dgehricke

    dgehricke United States Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Mark,
    I measured my bracket for the vertical head and it is 2.115" at the thickest part where it mounts on the 2" did. overarm.
    Regards
    dgehricke
     
  22. mark_f

    mark_f Global Moderator Staff Member H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Thank you. From all the information that I've got here I am putting together a drawing to scale to see what I have to make. It looks like it may work out pretty good once I get the cast-iron
     
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  23. bosephus

    bosephus United States Active Member Active Member

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    Right-o .... I'll not bother with digging threw my junk then
     
  24. mark_f

    mark_f Global Moderator Staff Member H-M Supporter-Premium

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    If you have the correct plate , I will buy it from you. It will be a bear to make but that seemed the only option if one cannot be found.
     
  25. John Gordon

    John Gordon United Kingdom Swarf Registered Member

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    Hi Mark,
    I only joined this forum today and I was trawling through posts and I came across yours which I see is very recent. I too have a Burke #4 with the original vertical attachment and adapter plate.
    Your steel substitute appears to have incorporated the elliptical adjustment slot and the elliptical split bushing so I was wondering what issues and problems it caused. I see that "dghe ricke" has been very helpful and provided the key dimensions. I am also willing to add my help if there is any further information required. I am based in UK.
    John Gordon
     
  26. mark_f

    mark_f Global Moderator Staff Member H-M Supporter-Premium

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    John,
    Welcome to the forum. The adapter plate was missing when I got my Burke. I made one from steel but it is too hard and difficult to clamp, so I need to make one from cast iron. I made the split bushing also. It works fine. The steel plate does not give easy when trying to clamp. Someone was supposedly had a plate , but I don't think he is going to come through, so when I can, I will get a chunk of cast iron and make one.
     
  27. John Gordon

    John Gordon United Kingdom Swarf Registered Member

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    Mark,
    Thank you for the welcome. If you require any further help with dimensions or detail photos I'm happy to oblige.
    John
     
  28. mark_f

    mark_f Global Moderator Staff Member H-M Supporter-Premium

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    HELP....... can one (or more) of you guys tell me the distance center to center between the to p hole and bottom hole in the vertical hard plate?

    I also need the distance center to center from the bottom hole to the center of the slot.

    Thanks....


    I got the cast iron...... Cost me $86 delivered.
     
  29. dgehricke

    dgehricke United States Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Mark,
    I can go to my shop in the morning and I'll measure the distance of the centers. What slot are you talking about ?Who did you get the cast iron from ?
    let me know.
    Wally G
    dgehricke
     
  30. mark_f

    mark_f Global Moderator Staff Member H-M Supporter-Premium

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    The slot is the one the bolt goes in to lock the head position.

    I got my cast iron from hobbymetalkits.com. It is owned by a fellow named Bernie McCallum. He is really reasonable and only charges the actual shipping costs. I buy a lot from him. He gets me anything I want and the sizes I want.

    Thanks for the help.
     

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