[How-To] Removing riveted plates for lathe resoration

[Ben17484]

I’m currently fixing up an old Smart and Brown lathe (https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/restoring-hopefully-my-new-smart-and-brown-sab.100937/) and need to remove the metal plates (is there a better term for these?) for painting:

Like the above plate for spindle speeds, there are a few of these types of riveted on plates. How do I remove these and put them back after painting?


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[great white]

The ones I’ve removed I just get a chisel or other type of wedge shape under the plate at the rivet head and slowly work the rivet out. It will sort of screw its way out as you lift it.

I’ve yet to find a way to remove these types of rivets without messing up the data plate. I just try to restrict the damages to the area immediately around the rivet and then rework the data plate using things like small body hammers to work out any bending or warping caused by removing it from the equipment.

sometimes the rivet just tears through the data plate, but even that can usually be fixed with a little careful work with a body hammer. Where it tears through leaves a cone shape and all you need to do is work it back down to a flat, round hole.

Theres probably many ways to remove those data plates, this is just how I do it.

putting it back on is just a matter of hammering the rivets back in. you may have to buy new ones though…

 

[darkzero]

They're called drive screws or screw nails. I buy the stainless ones from Mcmaster, they come in zinc plated steel also.
https://www.mcmaster.com/type-u-drive-screws/

I use stripped screw removal pliers (notice the grooves in the jaw tips) with an unscrewing motion to take em out (but some have straight flutes instead of a sprial). I haven't damaged a plate yet but I've only done these three & a couple of motor plates so far. You can lay down some tape for added protection.

 

[derf]

Technically those are not rivets......they are "drive screws". They have a sort of fast thread on the shank that acts more like knurling. They can be removed by cutting a slot in the head and screwing them out like a machine screw. If you can get under the head, or at least grip the head, they will unscrew
In some situations they can be driven out from the opposite side, such as the cover you've shown.

 

[Ben17484]

Tha is everyone. I think I have a plan to remove them now then.


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[wachuko]

The pliers @darkzero showed is the way to go… I still need to get a set of those..

Right now what I do is to cut a slot on them and turn them with a screwdriver and a wrench…

 

[SLK001]

On thin castings like the one you show, very seldom is the hole not completely thru to the other side. The exit hole could be filled with a filler of some type to make it look like it is a blind hole on the inside. With a thru hole, just drive them out from the other side.

 

[pontiac428]

You need a pair of ENGINEER PZ-58 Screw Removal Pliers. Anything else is Captain Caveman style.

 

[darkzero]

You need a pair of ENGINEER PZ-58 Screw Removal Pliers. Anything else is Captain Caveman style.
View attachment 414546

Yup, the ones I use for drive screws are the PZ-60 needle nose (the ones in the middle).


I'm a sucker for screw removal pliers & tools. Got the Knipex & Merry (Japan) also.

 

[wachuko]

Yup, the ones I use for drive screws are the PZ-60 needle nose (the ones in the middle).
View attachment 414569


I'm a sucker for screw removal pliers & tools. Got the Knipex & Merry (Japan) also.
View attachment 414575

There was a set!!!??? I just bought them individually... just the PZ-57 and 58.... man... I would have gone for that set...