[How do I?] Remove This Nut. Lathe Disassembly

Jmanb13

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I'm in the process of disassembling my lathe to clean it up. While taking apart the carriage I ran across this nut and I have no idea how to remove it. I have pushed back the lock washer behind it but I have no idea how to grab and turn the nut. I am assuming it requires some special type of wrench/socket that I have never seen before. Any help would be appreciated.

2016-12-13 21.43.41.jpg
 
If the nut is exposed you would be able to get it with a "C" spanner. If (as it appears to be in the pic), it is recessed in a hole, you will need a special socket (as you said) to get to it. Whether that special socket is available to buy I have no idea. I have never seen one. Wouldn't be hard to make one if you have a bit of time and a few hand tools. I'd be inclined to basically make a thick washer from a bit of plate (5 0r 6mm thick -I'm assuming this lathe is the only one you have access to, so can't use it atm?) drill and file it until it fits then weld onto an old/el cheapo socket. It won't be as tough, as hard or as pretty as a bought one but if it allows you to undo and then redo that nut that's all you want. You might never have to undo it again.
All the best with it.
peter
 
It is slightly recessed but some of it is exposed. Another picture of it is shown below.
You are correct that I do not have another lathe to use at the moment, so if there is not something readily available I'm going to have to fabricate something.

2016-12-13 22.34.53.jpg
 
Perfect time to buy a shaper so you can make the socket to remove that nut...
 
JM,

If, as is probably the case, you can't purchase the special 4-pin spanner to fit, you can make one from a 12-point socket. If you have access to a mill, you can do it more quickly but you can do the whole job with a Dremel or other small grinder. Go to a discount or autoparts store and buy the cheapest standard or deep pattern 3/8" or 1/2" drive 12-point socket. The OD of the socket must fit inside the hole around the nut. The ID should be equal to or a little smaller than the distance across the nut between the bottoms of two opposite drive semi-circles.

Cut away the end of the socket leaving 4 pegs sticking out. Use the outline of the 12 points to achieve the 90 deg. intervals between each peg. Then grind the ID of the pegs to fit the profiles of the four indentations.

I've never had to do a 4-pin one but I have had to make several 2-pin ones by this method over the years.
 
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JM,

If, as is probably the case, you can't purchase the special 4-pin spanner to fit, you can make one from a 12-point socket. If you have access to a mill, you can do it more quickly but you can do the whole job with a Dremel or other small grinder. Go to a discount or autoparts store and buy the cheapest standard or deep pattern 3/8" or 1/2" drive 12-point socket. The OD of the socket must fit inside the hole around the nut. The ID should be equal to or a little smaller than the distance across the nut between the bottoms of two opposite drive semi-circles.

Cut away the end of the socket leaving 4 pegs sticking out. Use the outline of the 12 points to achieve the 90 deg. intervals between each peg. Then grind the ID of the pegs to fit the profiles of the four indentations.

I've never had to do a 4-pin one but I have had to make several 2-pin ones by this method over the years.

This is what i'm going to have to do, time to break out the dremel and files.

OK, you guys are gonna hate me for this, I'll put on my flame suit. I just use a punch and a hammer on those :eek:

LOL! I've done similar in the past and I tried one or two hits on this one, however this nut has probably been in that location for 70 years now without ever moving. I don't expect it to turn easily.
 
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Yeah, so have I. But almost all of the special sockets I have made are for those weird nuts that are round on the outside and have a screwdriver looking slot cut on one end. One day, I was working on a customers radio that had a near NOS black wrinkle finish front panel. It had a slotted nut holding a tuning shaft that I had to remove and I was in a hurry. The narrow screwdriver that I used as a punch slipped and cut a gash in the paint. Fortunately, the knob hid the gash but I resolved never to do that again other than on junkers or in a life threatening situation. o_O
 
How about cutting 2, 3 or 4 lengths of a dowel pin (or 1018) rod that fit into the notches on the nut. Measure across two opposites for the size, grab a 12-point socket that slips over the nut with the loose pins in the notches. It'd work like one of the Gator Grip sockets available from Wal-Mart, et all for under $15. Naturally, the Gator Grip socket would be an option also, fits up to a 3/4" nut.

Bruce

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