Reattaching a micro switch to metal frame

salilsurnedran

salilsurnedran

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My convertible top is not opening because a steel strip connected to a microswitch is broken and needs to be replaced. As shown in this image http://imgur.com/Fdgvokz the steel strip below the blue switch is broken.

I bought a microswitch and broke it open took it's lever and attached it to the microswitch in my car using jb weld as shown here http://imgur.com/wia2tzt. However in order to attach the lever I had to pull out the microswitch in my car. I now have to reattach the microswitch to the frame. I had two questions:
1. What would be the best way to reattach the microswitch to the frame? I would use jb-weld but I might have to remove the microswitch in case the lever malfunctions again and jb-weld seems to be creating a very strong bond. To remove jb-weld I will have to use heat and any kind of heat or pressure on the microswitch will break the switch(it almost broke when I removed it the first time). I would like to use a glue that is strong but can be removable by some kind of solvent. I even thought of industrial strength velcro since then I can remove the switch and move it around as I pleased.
2. Is there any way to put a clip or so around the lever so that jb-weld doesn't come apart due to pressure when the lever is pressed? The clip will have to be about 2 cm in width and hug that switch as close as possible so that it doesn't fall due to vibration etc.?
 
First a question ... how was the switch originally attached?

Next a suggestion regarding the glue joint ... I've found that sandblasting metal surfaces produces MUCH stronger epoxy joints. Not only gives a rougher surface for the bond, but it also does a good job cleaning off any oils or residues.

A clip would certainly help. The JB Weld joint area is pretty highly stressed. If you can form a clip that surrounds the switch on 3 sides (left, front, right on your second image), and you have a way to attach it with a screw or other fastener, you might even be able to spot weld the lever to the clip. That would be a stronger joint than even the best epoxy on the switch body.

Another thought ... if you extend the clip outward to the right, even with the mounting surface of the switch body, you could screw the clip to the underlying metal. It looks like there's plenty of room.
 
hman said:
First a question ... how was the switch originally attached?

Next a suggestion regarding the glue joint ... I've found that sandblasting metal surfaces produces MUCH stronger epoxy joints. Not only gives a rougher surface for the bond, but it also does a good job cleaning off any oils or residues.

A clip would certainly help. The JB Weld joint area is pretty highly stressed. If you can form a clip that surrounds the switch on 3 sides (left, front, right on your second image), and you have a way to attach it with a screw or other fastener, you might even be able to spot weld the lever to the clip. That would be a stronger joint than even the best epoxy on the switch body.

Another thought ... if you extend the clip outward to the right, even with the mounting surface of the switch body, you could screw the clip to the underlying metal. It looks like there's plenty of room.
Click to expand...

The switch was originally attached with nails and the heads of the nails were inside the switch. when I pryed the switch out the nails broke. The problem is not with making a strong bond with respect to attaching the plastic micro-switch to the metal frame. I can do that with jb-weld. I want to use a glue that is removable. I was thinking of super glue because it can be removed with acetone in case I need to take the switch off again. With respect to strengthening the lever attached by jb-weld I was thinking of just trying it with a copper wire and soldeing the copper wire.
 
The repair is a compromise in several ways. Better would be to replace the switch entirely, or add a mount plate which would allow the switch to be unfastened and/or adjusted. Myself I would have chosen a commonly available switch type and fab a new mount for it- no glue involved.
JB weld is great but there is a lower limit as to surface area below which it just won't adhere well.
Mark S.
 
markba633csi said:
The repair is a compromise in several ways. Better would be to replace the switch entirely, or add a mount plate which would allow the switch to be unfastened and/or adjusted. Myself I would have chosen a commonly available switch type and fab a new mount for it- no glue involved.
JB weld is great but there is a lower limit as to surface area below which it just won't adhere well.
Mark S.
Click to expand...

I agree but the question how do I get the exact switch from I went to several websites asking them if this is available and asking to see the picture to make sure that this is the right part but unfortunately no one replies back. The closest I could find is http://www.ebay.com/itm/MITSUBISHI-OEM-07-12-Eclipse-Convertible-Top-Switch-8610A006/322545472967 but the guy is not replying back. The Manufacturer Part Number for this switch is 8610A006. Will another microswitch work in place of this switch?
 
salilsurnedran said:
I agree but the question how do I get the exact switch from I went to several websites asking them if this is available and asking to see the picture to make sure that this is the right part but unfortunately no one replies back. The closest I could find is http://www.ebay.com/itm/MITSUBISHI-OEM-07-12-Eclipse-Convertible-Top-Switch-8610A006/322545472967 but the guy is not replying back. The Manufacturer Part Number for this switch is 8610A006. Will another microswitch work in place of this switch?
Click to expand...

Are you sure that is the part #? The listing on ebay shows the exact #
Pretty expensive switch.
The Mitsubishi Parts Warehouse price is a lot cheaper.
 
Un solder one wire and measure current flow.

If interlock switch likely minimal current as it could control a relay.

Next just measure it and review the drawings on line to find one that is same size.

Manufacturer is going to use readily available component if possible.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337Z using Tapatalk
 
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