Reading Micrometers: Our return to this website...

I don't have ratchets on my mikes. I hold the frame in between the last two fingers and palm of my right hand. I then twist the barrel with the thumb and forefinger. When my thumb slips I'm there. Again, this takes practice.

"Billy G" :))

htm (700 x 525).jpg
 
Here is
How to read a mic just down load and you'll have it.

Paul
 

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Ray,

If you are using a master, let's say on a 1 inch mike, if fully open and mastered at 1 inch it should read zero no matter what when the spindle and anvil are closed. If not, whatever is wrong I doubt can be fixed by the user.

"Billy G" :thinking:
 
BTW Folks, I have a handle on most of what we're going over but, I just got a promotion to moderator so, I'm hoping to gather-up all the information, put into a final form that we can all review then, make it a sticky page for newcomers.

If anyone wants to suggest more topics other than micrometers, then please do and we can start another thread devoted to that.

Sound OK to you?
 
jster1963,

Glad you're hanging in there with this. Welcome. Over time, we'll cover more things like how to use a granite stone to take differential measurements, checking flatness of precision ground workpieces etc. For now, if you have any topics you're interested in, I'd love to hear about it. -And don't worry, nobody's going to bite or snarl about beginning questions.

Ray


I'm new and this is a great lesson!
 
You say you have a handle on most of what we have said, what part don't you understand? If it was my last post to your question let me simplify it.

If you open and master a mike to its proper dimension with a calibrated master then that is as far as you can close it. 0 is 0 at both ends. It cannot be any other way. If it is, then one of the scales, either on the sleeve or the thimble is wrong. That is a fix the user cannot do.

"Billy G" :))
 
I think some pictorial training and how to threads would be great. Since I am untrained in this area it would be very nice to get some good basic fundamentals under my belt to improve the quality of my finished work. I can get pretty close, but my consistency and repeatability need improvement the most.
Bob
 
Bob,

Do you mean how to measure threads or to cut them? ...Or how to read the L, B and H ratings of taps & dies?

Ray

I think some pictorial training and how to threads would be great. Since I am untrained in this area it would be very nice to get some good basic fundamentals under my belt to improve the quality of my finished work. I can get pretty close, but my consistency and repeatability need improvement the most.
Bob
 
Hi Billy G...

Yes, I understood. Again, I'm getting folks involved in a series of "back to the basics" about common things. I'll gather up all the info into one place so newcomers won't have to search around for it. Your contribution (or the information therein) will make it's way into the final write-up. I think it's best to get people involved rather than me writing-up something on my own.

Much thanks...

Ray



You say you have a handle on most of what we have said, what part don't you understand? If it was my last post to your question let me simplify it.

If you open and master a mike to its proper dimension with a calibrated master then that is as far as you can close it. 0 is 0 at both ends. It cannot be any other way. If it is, then one of the scales, either on the sleeve or the thimble is wrong. That is a fix the user cannot do.

"Billy G" :))
 
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