R and R Logan Powermatic Spindle

Happycamper

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I have a Logan Powermatic and am looking for shop tips on removing and replacing the spindle. It is the model 111008 with LOO spindle. Has anyone done this on this model? Anything special I should know? Any tricks or tips on loosening the flat belt on the variable speed drive? Thanks.

Jerry H.
 
Scott Logan of Loganact.com still supports his product. Contact them.
 
Yep.
Been there.
I purchased my 10" Powermatic knowing the headstock bearings were bad.
1. Buy the manual. Scott has them.
2. I bought my bearings and bushings from Scott.
3. The Logan forum was incredibly helpful.
4. Diagram everything on diss-assembly. Photos work well. The parts diagram shows a bellvue washer. Turns out mine never had one. But, I looked for hours on the floor and every surface in my shop where I might have placed it. Scott identified later that not all the machines got one. It was only used to take up space as needed for a good fit.
5. Scott was infinitely patient. And walked me through each step when I got stuck. However, I bought all the parts from him. I also knew that the parts would fit.
6. PM me if you have specific questions. You can do this, I did.

Daryl
MN



I have a Logan Powermatic and am looking for shop tips on removing and replacing the spindle. It is the model 111008 with LOO spindle. Has anyone done this on this model? Anything special I should know? Any tricks or tips on loosening the flat belt on the variable speed drive? Thanks.

Jerry H.
 
Thanks. I was surprised when I couldn't find anything on the web concerning this. There's a lot of info and repair or how to manuals on Southbends but not much on The Logan's, particularly the powermatics. I can take it apart but always like to either look at a repair manual or talk to someone who's done it before I tear anything down....... Want to make sure I can get it back together right and I don't break anything. I've got a lot of noise in the headstock, especially when the back gears are engaged. I suspect the back gear bushings will need to be replaced. I think there is a grease fitting on the back gear shaft that can't be accessed with the spindle in. I want to see if there is anyway to put an access hole in the back of the housing to get to it. So, that's the plan. Today I'm making a collar and pin to take the nut off the end of the spindle since I don't have a pin spanner wrench and loosening the flat belt. Then I'll take the cover off the chuck end of the spindle and see if I can get the spindle out.
 
Well, got the spindle out and the bearings weren't that bad. But while I have it down I'm replacing all three. The bushings in the cone were tight. The oil hole in the cone only goes to one of the bushings. I'm going to drill and tap a hole to the cavity area between the two bushings so as to create a small oil reservoir for both bushings. I'm trying to figure out how to take out the back gear assembly. Any one have experience doing that? There seems to be some play in the bushings on the back gear shaft so I think I'll go ahead and replace those also. The oil hole on the shaft is inaccessible. I'm going to drill out a hole in the back of the headstock even with the oil hole on the back gear shaft, tap it and screw in a plug. That way I'll be able to access the oil hole on the back gear shaft. I went to pick up the bearings at a local dealer. They are standard bearings and with the numbers on the bearings, it is easier and quicker to buy them locally than ordering them. Of course the one with the snap ring was out of stock but will be in tomorrow. Again, any help on removing the back gear assembly would be appreciated.


Jerry H.
 
Taking the back gear assembly out is a pia. The headstock must be completely removed. There are two set screws that hold the bearing cups in the headstock for the back gear shaft. Guess where they are located? On the bottom of the head stock. The screw for the back plate that holds the headstock to the bed is screwed into the hole for the left side set screw. It doesn't just come off. You have to take the headstock off to get to the TWO set screws on the bottom. The schematic shows one. So, I had to disconnect the wiring in the control box, take the banjo off, remove the side cover assembly, the reverse gear assembly( since it mounts into the hole for the back gear shaft), the back gear rack assembly, the brake assembly, and then loosen the two set screws and take the bearing cups out. The only good thing was the back gear shaft bushings are standard 3/4" ID, 7/8" OD and 1" long. Also, after looking at where the oil hole is on the shaft, my idea of drilling a hole in the headstock won't work. The oiler is hidden behind the flat belt. I'm going to Grainger tomorrow and buy another oil hole thingamajig, drill another hole in the shaft and install it. Then I can drill the hole in the back of the head stock to access it. And I thought this was going to be simple.

Jerry H.
 
I have the same lathe

Note to self: The spindle bearings are just fine. Ignore that noise
 
Okay, it's a done deal. Things I learned, replace ALL the bearings and the belt when you do this. You don't want to go to the trouble of taking all the gears off, the guards, disconnecting the electrical, and taking the headstock off but once. Plus the putting it back together and re-aligning the headstock and tail stock. The bearings for the back gear assembly are common size(1"OD by 3/4"ID and 3/4"OD x 1/2"ID) oilite ( or similar) bearings. They're cheap so replace them all. The main bearings can be ordered using the numbers on your old bearings. The bearings in the spindle cone (there are two and both are 1 7/8" ID) are (at least on my machine different OD's. One was 2" OD and the other was 2 1/8" OD. I ordered these from Logan. They are oilite sleeve bearings, 1" in length. The belt for my 11" Powermatic is a 520J16 micro groove poly belt. The 520J is an industry standard number. The "52" in the number is the length of the belt. The "16" is the number of ribs. Whatever brand belt you buy, the number will be the same. I bought a Gates brand poly v belt for $39. You can get the Logan belt from logan for $159. Before you put the headstock back on the bed, install the spindle. I used a piece of 1/2" all thread to install the spindle back into the head. I bought a 6" piece of 2" cast iron pipe and an end cap for it. I drilled a 17/32" hole in the cap which I ran the all thread through. This goes on the left side of the headstock, the all thread through this adapter and through the spindle. Tightening up nuts on the ends will draw the spindle into the headstock. By putting the spindle in while you have the headstock off the machine, you can align the back gear to the spindle so the gears will mesh properly and are in line. Also, after the spindle is installed, turn the headstock upside down and install the back gear rack lever. It is a helluva lot easier than trying to install it once the headstock is back on the machine. You can get the back gears to fully engage and mesh this way and adjust the rack lever to where it does that perfectly. If anyone does this and has questions, contact me.
 
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