Question/Opinion building a steady rest

kvt

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Question/Opinion building a steady rest. Ok, have an older 10x24 Asian lathe. Need a steady rest for it, and have not been able to find one. Thus thinking of trying to build one. Here is one of the things I am questioning, and need opinions/advice on. Since the steady rest does not have to hold a lot of weigh, can the base of it be made out of something like heavy channel, instead of a solid piece of steel or cast?
I was thinking of taking a piece of heavy channel, that I could machine the V in for the one way and ensure flat on the other, and flat on top, Drill a hole for the bolt, and use a piece of spring steel from a car spring or something as the hold down. Then weld another piece of channel on top with a ring of either steel, or large diameter pipe set up as the cage area to go around and steady things.
Suggestions, opinions etc.
 
Since the steady rest does not have to hold a lot of weigh
A steady rest could be asked to carry the entire weight of a piece of work 10" diameter and shorter than the length of the bed, or work that could barely clear the cross slide and extending well beyond the length of the bed. I cannot really picture what you are describing in your post. I do not recommend making a steady rest just for the present job at hand, but rather for any job that could conceivably be fit on your lathe. Most factory supplied steadies do not do that, and that is a shortcoming. The steady that came with my 13x40 Kent USA lathe will only accept a part slightly over 3" in diameter. It looks like a steady rest, but is mostly useless as is (though it could be modified.) What if I want to face a 10" cylinder, 24" long, so it is completely flat across the end, no center hole?
 
I think the method you describe would work ok. You haven't given any dimensions. As Bob points out the "ring" should be large enough internal diameter to permit the largest diameter work piece you intend to use. You need to have three radial slots or some method to accommodate the support "fingers", a way to adjust them and lock them in position.

David
 
The steady that came with my 13x40 Kent USA lathe will only accept a part slightly over 3" in diameter. It looks like a steady rest, but is mostly useless as is (though it could be modified.) What if I want to face a 10" cylinder, 24" long, so it is completely flat across the end, no center hole?

I agree, that 3" would make that useless. I didn't realize that most were that useless. Having a SB 9a I have a need for one, and have been looking for one I can afford.
The spindle on the 9a is too small, so there is a need for a steady rest.
 
Check this out.
Just an idea.

Nice design and execution of the steady! Would have loved to see how far the rollers retract, though it is pretty obvious that the entire inside diameter of the steady can be used, even if it requires a little modification. It is good to use a cardboard or metal mask that fits the work over the steady to keep chips out of the rollers.
 
I like that one, just have to get a few more pieces of equipment and power in the garage shop to make it. I was thinking of a large diam pipe, weld a pin hinge setup on one side, Then a bolt lock on the other, That way yo could open it up to set your piece in then line it up. I like his idea of using multiple layers of plate to make the bottom part. Will have to look at that rather than a piece of channel iron
will keep looking at the various ones on you tube as well.
 
I have made a couple of steady rests (and follow rests) over the years The largest was for a 24" swing Nebel lathe, the smallest for a 9" swing Monarch from the teens or 20s. The large one, I made out of steel plate, 1- 1/2" thick, made a paper pattern of it and had it burnt out with an electric eye burning machine' I had the hinge point made on both pieces (top and base) and machined that area on both parts so that they fit flush. The base was made of steel plate machined to fit the flat and prismatic ways.
The smaller one, I copied the design of one that a friend had that was made for an identical lathe that he owns. I made a wood pattern for it and also for a follow rest, since the lathe is 3 ft. between centers and also made a large faceplate (also from an original that my friend had) and small driving plate patterns and had them cast in ductile iron along with some other large castings for bearing caps for a steam donkey that weighed about 70 lbs. each; this work is now complete at Sturgeon's Mill, a steam powered sawmill from 1924 where I volunteer. It is located near Sebastopol Ca. and it is run 4 times per year for the public; Google the name and see their schedule.
The steady rests, etc. were both successful, fabricated and cast, but I think cast is better as it tends to absorb vibration, steel tends to make it worse; if doing steel, make it as heavy as possible. As to roller steady rests, for the most part, I do not like them due to chips getting caught and roughing up the work. I think the best material for the standard type jaws is cast iron, as most were made of; it is a good bearing surface and wears a long time.
 
Ken,

I might bite my tongue later saying this, I have a home made steady rest that has not been used in nearly 40 years since it was built for a project dad and I worked on. It was made for my 9" SBL and will handle about 5-1/2" in diameter. All you have to do is make a adapter block to fit your bed to mount it to. And you know where I live. It's yours for the asking. Donations are accepted too. Here's some pictures to look at.

Edit: Forgot to mention, I have a mill here at your disposal to use to do any mill work to make the SR work on your lathe if needed.

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