Protecting & Maintaining Machined Surfaces

[louosten]

Gentlemen;

I am currently working on a drill press restoration, but would like some commentary on a more or less general subject, which is caring for machined surfaces. My most recent effort was in restoring the machined surface on the work table for this drill press. After using the usual rust removal techniques (steel wool, naval jelly, wash, repeat) I filled in the holes (arc of shame) with JB Weld, then restored the flat surface by filing and light use of emery cloth. The finishing touch was several applications of paste wax to prevent or retard rust formation:



I know some on-line woodworking sites that extol the virtues of paste wax on cast iron. Maybe there are other, better solutions to preserving finished surfaces. One product I have heard of, but am not necessarily endorsing, is a Zep item called Zepreserve. It was sprayed all over a Clausing Mill I purchased last year, and it really seemed to keep the rust off the metal until it was removed. It had a waxy consistency which I liked, and seemed to be good for the intended purpose.

Maybe you have a good procedure you use that you'd like to share...let the comments begin!

 

[TOOLMASTER]

TREWAX.

 

[Franko]

I never had any luck protecting iron from rust with any kind of wax or coat of oil. The best thing I discovered is to use a piece of MDF to cover the surface when I'm not using it. This has worked like a charm on my joiner bed and fence.

 

[aliva]

For winter storage I oil my mill and lathe with ISO 32 or 64 hydraulic oil and then cover with saran wrap or equal.
Been working greart for several years

 

[Bob Korves]

Been there, done that. Move to where it is warm and dry rather than rainy and humid. It makes the job of rustproofing a lot easier. Noontime here today, sunny, 63F and 54% humidity. Nothing is rusting...
8^)

 

[brino]

I found the column on my drill press would darken and rust in my garage shop.
After a good clean-up I tried Bostik GlideCote:
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=40952&cat=1,230,64343,64350

It works so well I've never bothered with anything else.
I also use it on my table saw, hand saws and planes.

I even found that my local hardware store now carries it......

-brino

 

[TLW]

Battling winter weather here in Wisconsin is never an easy task. I have used Zep Preserve with good success but its not the "be all end all" of solutions. It works IF you literally don't touch the machine.If you do, forget it. The only real solution to your problem is heat. Keep the shop heated all winter and your machines will look like new forever. I know, its expensive, not practical for a lot of folks and probably not going to happen but....I'm just say'n that's what works every time. all the time.
Now, other than keeping your shop heated you can try covering everything after coating it with a good moisture barrier like ZEP or GlideCote or any of the other products out there. Just don't mess with them after you do! The problem is condensation the air gets warm and moisture laden hits the cold iron and condenses, creating rust. You gotta break that cycle some how.
That's about all you can do other than clean the stuff in Spring and enjoy. Hope this helps although probably not.

 

[itsme_Bernie]

Taking TLW's idea step to the side, a 60w light bulb in the base of each machine, or two depending on the machine, keep the machine just enough-warmer than the surrounding environment to prevent the slow condensation that rusts.
Adding a moving blanket is total protection, with just normal lube.
Add a tarp to this system, and you can leave a machine OUTSIDE all winter.

 

[pebbleworm]

Decades ago I was told to heat a cast iron table up with a blowtorch until it was too hot to touch, and then paint on some motor oil and keep heating it until it starts to smoke. Let it cool, wipe off the excess and then heat it again. Let it cool, wipe it off and then give it a good coat of paste wax. I did this with a tablesaw, bandsaw and drill press that I pretty much abandoned in an unheated Iowa basement- it usually stays above freezing, but not by much. Summers it is definitely damp down there. 20 years later they are still rust free. The rationale was that the heat "opens up the pores" in the cast iron so it can absorb the oil. I cannot say if that is really the case, but the tables are still rust free.

 

[ARKnack]

What pebbleworm said is basically the same as seasoning cast iron cook ware. Should work. I may have to try it. The reason for using wax on wood chucking machines is wax leaves a very thin coating that won't transfer to the wood. Any transfer can screw up wood finishing. Also wax helps wood slide across the table top. For my wood tools I use wax. For metal working I just use WD40. I apply it liberally and often. It's cheap and works well. Oil doesn't hurt metal. If I have a machine that isn't used often, I will use better stuff. Like bio shied t9 or other waxy sprays. Check marine boating forums. They review rust preventatives often.