Can anyone share some experience ? I can came across the Napier VP90 Rust Inhibitor/Protector which is claimed to be able to "deposits an invisible mono molecular film which bonds to any exposed metal surface and guards against the effects of corrosion". Does it do what it says ?
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Protecting Infrequently Used Tools From Rusting
- Thread starter compact8
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I don't know, I use Boeshield developed by Boeing in your situation. Woodcraft stores carry it by the way. Its too tacky for table surfaces chips stick to it but for storage of infrequently used tools or the underside of tables its perfect.
There is another product I'm going to try on my mill table, Bostik Glidecoat. This is a rust preventative that leaves a slick surface which is what I want for ease of clean up. I don't want chips sticking to an oily surface. They use this on wood working machine table surfaces to prevent rust and also reduce friction so wood slides over the surface with less friction. As it holds up to duty like a table saw with lots of wood running across it I think it will be good for a mill table. Another thing I'm going to try it on is my Kurt vice, not the jaws but the rest of the vice which wants to rust and again gets clogged with chips if you use any type of oil preventative. Its possible my machines will be cleaner than DZ's!
There is another product I'm going to try on my mill table, Bostik Glidecoat. This is a rust preventative that leaves a slick surface which is what I want for ease of clean up. I don't want chips sticking to an oily surface. They use this on wood working machine table surfaces to prevent rust and also reduce friction so wood slides over the surface with less friction. As it holds up to duty like a table saw with lots of wood running across it I think it will be good for a mill table. Another thing I'm going to try it on is my Kurt vice, not the jaws but the rest of the vice which wants to rust and again gets clogged with chips if you use any type of oil preventative. Its possible my machines will be cleaner than DZ's!
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That Bostik stuff sounds pretty got, but pricy, Just looked it up. Live in an area where it is hot and high humidity, Thus even in the shop things start to rust just sitting there. May have to try it, save the fact that chips would not be getting attracked and stuck everywhere.
Yes, VP90 works. So does Boeshield, and LPS, though they're not VP inhibitors. For really long-term storage -years- LPS3 has worked for me.
You might also try a block of camphor in your tool chest- lots of reports about that working in the old machinists' writings. i've used it- it's fine in moderate climates (don't know how it'd work in very wet/coastal areas).
Another method for big surface areas (not bearing surfaces) is to coat with Johnson's Paste Wax (any high-carnauba, hard wax formula will work). Some woodworkers claim this causes problems with later finishing steps; haven't noticed that. I've used it on my table saw for decades...no rust.
The dessicant packages are just silica gel. Limited water capacity, no good way to tell they're not saturated (unless they contain an indicator). They can be reactivated by heating, after removing from the plastic package, but hardly worth the bother.
The one thing I'd avoid is WD40. Dries and stains.
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For me it depends on a couple things; how infrequently used/how long stored, what type/shape of tool, and storage environment (how humid, dusty, etc.).
For the tables tops on my table-saw, drill presses and band-saws, the vertical drill press tube, etc, I used to use Bostik Top-Cote, but I can no longer find it. So I bought a can of Bostik Glide-Cote (which I believe is their replacement product) which I'll start using when the other can is empty. I have also used it on other wood-working tools like hand saws, skill saw bases and block planes. It seems to keep off the rust and provide a slippery surface. It does take some rubbing on.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=40952&cat=1,43415,43440
For packing away a tool for weeks/months unused in my unheated shed, I typically give it a dripping coat of "Fluid Film". For small tolls I'll put them in a rubbermaid type plastic bin. For bigger things wrap in plastic. When you go to use it, just wipe off the extra.
http://www.tscstores.com/333G-FLUID-FILM-P1569.aspx#.VVipvMqzl2A
For old machines that are "new to me" that may have been stored outside for years, something that I want to park in my shed for eventual restoring, I will 1) coat them with homemade penetrating oil (50% ATF/50% acetone); it's really thin due to the acetone and will soak/creep into every crevice. Do this for a couple days in a row. 2) coat every exposed surface with something thicker, like Fluid Film. 3) wrap it a tarp or plastic, both to keep the penetrating oil/lubricant in and to keep bugs out and so I can handle/move it and not get covered myself.
-brino
For the tables tops on my table-saw, drill presses and band-saws, the vertical drill press tube, etc, I used to use Bostik Top-Cote, but I can no longer find it. So I bought a can of Bostik Glide-Cote (which I believe is their replacement product) which I'll start using when the other can is empty. I have also used it on other wood-working tools like hand saws, skill saw bases and block planes. It seems to keep off the rust and provide a slippery surface. It does take some rubbing on.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=40952&cat=1,43415,43440
For packing away a tool for weeks/months unused in my unheated shed, I typically give it a dripping coat of "Fluid Film". For small tolls I'll put them in a rubbermaid type plastic bin. For bigger things wrap in plastic. When you go to use it, just wipe off the extra.
http://www.tscstores.com/333G-FLUID-FILM-P1569.aspx#.VVipvMqzl2A
For old machines that are "new to me" that may have been stored outside for years, something that I want to park in my shed for eventual restoring, I will 1) coat them with homemade penetrating oil (50% ATF/50% acetone); it's really thin due to the acetone and will soak/creep into every crevice. Do this for a couple days in a row. 2) coat every exposed surface with something thicker, like Fluid Film. 3) wrap it a tarp or plastic, both to keep the penetrating oil/lubricant in and to keep bugs out and so I can handle/move it and not get covered myself.
-brino
- Joined
- Sep 9, 2014
- Messages
- 90
Check out "Strongarms Brand" lubricant. Google it and you may find what you're looking for.
I've been using it for several years now and I've found it to be an excellent penetrating oil, rust preventer/remover for firearms and machine tools.
Another fine firearms/tool lubricant is KG Industries "KG-4". It's a single part lube that doesn't evaporate readily, is an excellent rust preventer and is good at very low temps as well as high temp. It's used by a bunch of Law Enforcement agencies as their primary lube due to to the fact it's almost "cop proof". They can't mess up their weapons with it and it retains a high lubricity factor.
I've been using it for several years now and I've found it to be an excellent penetrating oil, rust preventer/remover for firearms and machine tools.
Another fine firearms/tool lubricant is KG Industries "KG-4". It's a single part lube that doesn't evaporate readily, is an excellent rust preventer and is good at very low temps as well as high temp. It's used by a bunch of Law Enforcement agencies as their primary lube due to to the fact it's almost "cop proof". They can't mess up their weapons with it and it retains a high lubricity factor.
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