Procedure For Boring Soft Jaws

Joe, I haven't run into any problems using the cheater jaws like that. Commercial soft top jaws would be stronger of course, being properly keyed to the master jaw, plus they would repeat better when you needed to put them back on. But if you are making a set as more or less permanent top jaws that wouldn't matter. You can buy those ready to machine from a couple of places if you don't want to fit the keyways, etc on the master jaws.

I think that the cheater jaws work as well as they do is that for second ops, or close concentricity chucking, generally the part is a little delicate so you aren't really chucking hard anyway. Those I showed are aluminum, but just for ease, and I have a pile of 2 1/4" drops I can use for that. Steel would be just fine.
 
Micke S said:
If you want an accurate chuck there are only to options. Either grind the jaws, if the rest of the chuck is fine, or by a new chuck.

This is untrue my friend, there are often times when the work is completely unsuited to using hard top jaws, holding parts on previously finished surfaces for a second operation is one example. Holding parts that are very thin or have complicated geometries is another. Holding very short parts that do not easily lend themselves to a through spindle stop is probably the best use of soft jaws.

Personally I would not buy a scroll chuck without two piece jaws regardless of price or appearance as it limits your options.

Your mileage may vary.
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I certainly agree a two piece 6 jaw chuck would be a lot more versatile. Especially if it is with soft and hardened jaws. But the price may require being on a strict diet for a month ;)
 
Micke,

Thanks very much. Where did you get the adjustable? backplate to fit?

George
 
kinggt4 said:
Micke,

Thanks very much. Where did you get the adjustable? backplate to fit?

George
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I drilled new holes between the old ones in the original backplate. The holes are 0,5 mm wider than the bolts so the chuck could be dialed in.
 
You're welcome, Joe. Although my main lathe has a 3 jaw that I can count on to be with a couple, sometimes I find that I need to hold OAL or concentricity closer than that on a finished part, or work with thin, washer-like pieces, or thin wall parts as in that example a spool shaped part. I could have made a split sleeve for that particular part and chucked it conventionally, but it works out for multiple uses and is not a dedicated tooling aid.
 
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