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Owners manual recommends turning the head upside down in order to drain oil.<O></O>
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After replacing spindle seals to correct oil leak and poked around, I found (at least on my mill) that there is a drain plug and it is located in the lowest spot.<O></O>
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Should someone proceed I think the first oil change will likely be very messy as the plug is in undesirable location, however if one installs a fitting with a petcock and uses any kind of hose the next oil change will be a snap.<O></O>
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Like any machine there will be accumulation of cuttings and other debris especially in Chinese built machinery. Turning the head upside down to drain oil and reintroduce all the sediment and filing back into the gears seems to me like a dumb idea.<O></O>
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I chose little different route as I have a powerful suction oil change pump. Since one cannot reach the deepest part from the filler plug, I drilled another opening in the top and installed new plug. Now I can change the oil with the suction hose.<O></O>
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Attached are two pictures. One with the bottom drain plug (the small plug beside the black head tilt adjusting nut) and other shot is of the new plug (Brass) for oil evacuation from the top.<O></O>
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Pneumatic power draw bar in the picture is just another item I could not live without. Seeing all different designs on the Internet, I decided to build my own from the scrap around the shop. Aluminum, ½” W-1 drill rod, bronze bushings and Derlin (Acetal) bushings for the swivel.
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></O>Owners manual recommends turning the head upside down in order to drain oil.<O
></O><O
></O>After replacing spindle seals to correct oil leak and poked around, I found (at least on my mill) that there is a drain plug and it is located in the lowest spot.<O
></O><O
></O>Should someone proceed I think the first oil change will likely be very messy as the plug is in undesirable location, however if one installs a fitting with a petcock and uses any kind of hose the next oil change will be a snap.<O
></O><O
></O>Like any machine there will be accumulation of cuttings and other debris especially in Chinese built machinery. Turning the head upside down to drain oil and reintroduce all the sediment and filing back into the gears seems to me like a dumb idea.<O
></O><O
></O>I chose little different route as I have a powerful suction oil change pump. Since one cannot reach the deepest part from the filler plug, I drilled another opening in the top and installed new plug. Now I can change the oil with the suction hose.<O
></O><O
></O>Attached are two pictures. One with the bottom drain plug (the small plug beside the black head tilt adjusting nut) and other shot is of the new plug (Brass) for oil evacuation from the top.<O
></O><O
></O>Pneumatic power draw bar in the picture is just another item I could not live without. Seeing all different designs on the Internet, I decided to build my own from the scrap around the shop. Aluminum, ½” W-1 drill rod, bronze bushings and Derlin (Acetal) bushings for the swivel.
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