PM932 Arrival and Move Into House

Thanks for the info John. Do you have apic showing the wheels alittle closer? From what I can tell you used a couple of bearings for each wheel. Is there a swivel above the wheel? Or does the wheel turn too when you level the machine?
 
Ed W said:
Hi Johnny,
Great photo sequence for the installation of your mill! What type and size of steel tube did you use to weld the base for your PM-932M? i have one coming in a few days and want to start collecting materials for the stand. Thanks.
Ed
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Thanks Ed, it is 2" X2" X .188" (wall thickness) steel. Have fun with you new machine.

John
 
Walt said:
I mostly got around the problem of turning the machine on the roller tracks by simply not turning it. I added 2x6" bits of lumber under the crate bottom to allow rollers to move smoothly under the machine. It was just a matter then of jacking the machine up, sliding the 4x6" timber tracks out, and sliding new ones in at right angles to the original tracks. The PM932 cleared the door to my shop with very close to zero clearance, but I got lucky and it did move through OK.

Originally I planned to build a gantry out of 4x6" timbers and lift the PM932 up onto its base with hand winches. The more I thought it through however, the more appealing it became to rent an engine lift from the local rental store.
View attachment 61038
I rigged the machine to the lift with chain attached to rings bolted to the mounting holes in the machine base. The stand is in position between the lift's legs (outriggers?). I do not make any claims that this is the correct way to approach the lift. Note the use of a heavy strap across the top of the machine and the chains. The assembly was not completely stable and this addition reduced the tendency of the machine to tip inside the chain assembly.

View attachment 61039
The lift went smoothly. Here is touchdown on the stand. It felt like a huge weight had been taken off my shoulders at this point. There is always the possibility for something to go wrong no matter how careful you are in planning a move. At this point much less so.

I am in the process of figuring out how to add a 220 volt line to my shop. The connection is complicated by the need to share the line with my Monarch lathe and install a rotary phase converter. Only one machine at a time will be run, but I still need to safely run a 7.5 hp idler motor plus run another feed back to the garage for my air compressor. All in good time.

Walt
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Hi Walt!
I just received my PM-932 as well and am making plans to put it on the stand. How did you get the eye bolts in the base out once the mill was resting on the base? As I understand it, the mill will bolt down to the stand where the cast iron is threaded to receive the bolt. Sorry for not getting it but your photos were otherwise very helpful. Thanks.
Ed
 
Ed W said:
Hi Walt!
I just received my PM-932 as well and am making plans to put it on the stand. How did you get the eye bolts in the base out once the mill was resting on the base? As I understand it, the mill will bolt down to the stand where the cast iron is threaded to receive the bolt. Sorry for not getting it but your photos were otherwise very helpful. Thanks.
Ed
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Hi Ed,

There are 2 sheet metal panels that screw onto the base covering rather large openings. Just remove one of them, reach up to the top of the base/bottom of the mill and remove the nuts from the eye bolts. It speaks well of your attention to detail to worry about this before you get into the project, but you can't trap the eye bolts on the machine.

I don't know how difficult it is to get a wrench on the nuts, it will pay dividends to make sure the nut-eye bolt assembly comes apart easily before committing to setting the mill on the base. Could be awkward working a ratchet blind, squatting, and not able to reach the eye bolt to prevent it from spinning.

Walt
 
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