PM 932M collet help ***Updated***

Just answered your message, if it works, you should be fine. They are pretty durable. Not 100%, but they arent as fragile as one might think.
 
T Bredehoft said:
Re: Tramming the head. I have your machine's little brother, the PM25. I made two blocks that screwed to the head and had screws that pushed on the column mount. They would lock the head in position, and allow tweaking the tramming. I checked it the other day when I had the vice off, it was out .003 in 18 inches. tweaking with the screws got it down to less that the width of the needle on 0 both ends.

Granted, if I were to want to tip the head I'd have to remove one of these, but I don't plan to do that. I have a sine plate for tipped work.
Click to expand...
By chance you got any pics of said device?
 
I took a picture of one of them a couple of years ago, you couldn't see anything. I made two blocks, 1/2 wide, 3/8 thick and an inch long from half hard 4140. I cut a flat about .090 deep on one end (undercut), drilled a quarter inch hole through the other end. tapped a 1/4 20 hole in the thin end for set screws, and tapped holes in the dovetail side of the head near the top. with the set screws just flush with the bottom surface I screwed the blocks to the dovetail side with 1/4 20 socket head cap screws. Tight. I then ran the set screws up against the surface of the head. When I tram the head I place a test indicator on a .100 jo block as far from the quill as I can, with another .100 Jo block on the other end of the bed. I swing the TI back and forth, just touching the Jo blocks, set zero on one and compare the other one. By tweaking the set screws I can correct the head to a true zero. Here's a crude sketch.
Tweak block.jpg
 
Hmmmm...i like the idea...

So i got the mill powered up and checked all misc functions and such before doing the initial startup...low 1 was going good for about 2min when it started screaching and squealing...at first it was intermittent but then it got more and more frequent...checked what i knew and all seems good...sight bubble shows me 1/3 way full of oil in the gearbox which is a bit low, i know...could this be the reason for the squeal??...sounds like its coming for the spindle shaft or the quill itself...dont wanna run it anymore just in case it might become a huge issue without some hints or possibilities as to what might be causing it.....
 
Well I got my mill today and I have the same problem I can't even get a collet in there :(
 
The manual is an invaluable download...the printed manual sucks...you can use a decent punch to drift the ring off around the quill and then use a very small flathead screwdriver to back the set screw out and remove or adjust the pin...some remove, i just brought mine out so the collets would go in...i am having an issue with the drill chuck adapter...it is much longer than the rest of the R8 stuff i have and the drawbar bottoms out before it even gets close to pulling it all the way up...and i was really hoping to use that a good bit too...may have to see about locating a nicer one that might be more "in-spec" than the chinese one it came with...jus sayin
 
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