1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.
  2. PLEASE: Read the FORUM RULES BEFORE registering!

    Dismiss Notice

PM-45M-CNC Setup and Configuration with Mach3

Discussion in 'CNC IN THE HOME SHOP' started by Boswell, Feb 28, 2014.

  1. Boswell

    Boswell United States Hobby Machinist since 2010 H-M Supporter-Premium

    Likes Received:
    87
    Trophy Points:
    28
    City:
    Cedar Park
    State:
    Texas

    -Return to Top-

    Here are some pictures

    Overall view of Motion Control Board in bottom left and chassis ground block in lower right
    Control-Box.jpg

    A closeup of the Chasis ground block. This is where I connected the Shield wire. You could also connect one of the signal wires here instead of to the GND connection on the board.
    ground-block.jpg

    and finally this shows the motion control board and where I connected the two signal wires (GND in the upper right and IN7 in the bottom middle

    Motion-Control-Board.jpg
     
    JimDawson likes this.
  2. GaryL

    GaryL United States Active Member Active Member

    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    6
    City:
    Taft
    State:
    California

    -Return to Top-

    Hello Boswell, and thanks again for the picture. Our boards are a little different but they have the same model number. My input # 7 already has a wire going to it. I guess I will try to trace it and see where it goes.
     
  3. Boswell

    Boswell United States Hobby Machinist since 2010 H-M Supporter-Premium

    Likes Received:
    87
    Trophy Points:
    28
    City:
    Cedar Park
    State:
    Texas

    -Return to Top-

    See the thread I created in the Precision Matthews section on the G31 issues. While I can get the probe to indicate using the diagnostic LED display, the G31 command will not work at all. No Motion. I am asking for others to try a G31 command on the MDI to see if this is unique to my system or an issue with this Motion Controller.

    GaryL. That is very interesting. By default Mach3 looks for the probe on Input #7. There may be a way to use a different input and have Mach3 recognize it as the Probe input but I am not sure.
     
  4. Jamespvill

    Jamespvill United States Active User Active Member

    Likes Received:
    13
    Trophy Points:
    18
    City:
    Royal City
    State:
    Washington

    -Return to Top-

    Hi Gentlemen,
    Sorry to take this off topic a little, but I'm having issues with my E-stop not working...I found out it didn't work seconds before snapping 3/8" endmill clean off...
    Anywho, I have it set port 1, pin 8 and active low. When I set it to not be active low I can't click the reset button on mach to start everything up and am told to reconfigure estop.

    Would someone kindly provide me with a little assistance as to how to configure the Estop properly? I have a feeling I'm going to want it working right in the future.

    Thanks folks!
     
  5. JimDawson

    JimDawson Global Moderator Staff Member Director

    Likes Received:
    3,720
    Trophy Points:
    113
    City:
    Sandy
    State:
    Oregon

    -Return to Top-

    On a standard parallel interface, I think the default pin for an E-stop is 13. Pins 10 - 13 and 15 are inputs. Pins 1 - 9, 14, 16, 17 are outputs. It sounds like you have the E-stop on an output pin, it should be on an input.
     
  6. Jamespvill

    Jamespvill United States Active User Active Member

    Likes Received:
    13
    Trophy Points:
    18
    City:
    Royal City
    State:
    Washington

    -Return to Top-

    Hmm...Swapped the pin numbers around and that didn't change anything. Even then though, When I take it off active low It locks up mach and won't let me restart it.

    All these fine details keep on nipping me in the butt!
     
  7. Boswell

    Boswell United States Hobby Machinist since 2010 H-M Supporter-Premium

    Likes Received:
    87
    Trophy Points:
    28
    City:
    Cedar Park
    State:
    Texas

    -Return to Top-

    Jamespvill, On my PM45M-CNC the E-Stop is wired to Input 8. you can see the picture of the board a few posts back.
    Here is a screen capture of the Mach3 Ports and Pins config page.
    ports and pins 6.jpg

    If you have it set like this and things do not work, I would recommend that you go into the diag page in mach3 and see what the E-Stop LED shows. It could be that there is a fault on the E-STOP circuit. It is (should be) setup so that if there is a broken wire then the system will be in E-STOP mode. In other words, all of the estop switches are Normaly Closed and OPEN when pressed. I hope this makes sense.
     
  8. Boswell

    Boswell United States Hobby Machinist since 2010 H-M Supporter-Premium

    Likes Received:
    87
    Trophy Points:
    28
    City:
    Cedar Park
    State:
    Texas

    -Return to Top-

    Take it off of Active Low and then run a jumper from the Motion control board (Pin 8) to ground. See if this works. If it does, then you probably have a bad wire, connection or switch somewhere in the circuit. You are using a PM45M-CNC, right ?
     
  9. Jamespvill

    Jamespvill United States Active User Active Member

    Likes Received:
    13
    Trophy Points:
    18
    City:
    Royal City
    State:
    Washington

    -Return to Top-

    Hey Boswell, I am in fact using a PM45CNC - I at least managed to get that right!

    So when I turn active low off and go to the diag page the Emergency LED is flashing red regardless of whether I have the Estop depressed or not.

    Also, looking at the board, I wanted to double check where I am gonna be poking wires...I see two "8's" on there, In and out, which of those do I want to jump? Also, I would assume one of them would be wired to the Estop, I'm sure I'm missing something here.

    Thanks for the help!
    Estop.png Board.png
     
  10. Boswell

    Boswell United States Hobby Machinist since 2010 H-M Supporter-Premium

    Likes Received:
    87
    Trophy Points:
    28
    City:
    Cedar Park
    State:
    Texas

    -Return to Top-

    It should be IN #8 and yes it should be wired to your E-Stop and possibly Limit (not Home) switches. can't remember if the Limit Switches are just part of the E-Stop circuit or if they have their own circuit. You can test this quickly by manually depressing a Limit Switch, like the one on Z axis 2/3 of the way up the column. if one of the other LED's light then they are separate (this is a good thing). I think they are typically wired in series and because it is a Normaly Closed circuit, if any of the switches gets activated (OPENED) then it breaks the circuit and causes an E-STOP signal.

    Step 1. Disconnect the Pendent. Does this solve the issue ?

    Step 2. Disconnect the wire that is currently in I8. Jump I8 to ground. If the Emergency light goes out then you can be pretty sure that it is an E-Stop Switch or the wiring to and from it. I

    Step 3. Reconnect the wire in I8 and then access the back of the E-Stop switch. Visually inspect for damage or loose wires. Be sure the E-Stop switch is in the RUN position and then use a jumper to Jump across the switch. There should just be two wires going to the switch and you want to "connect" Them. If the Emergency LED goes out then you know the switch is bad.

    It is interesting that you circuit board is different from mine. Where does the smaller ribbon cable got to ? I assume the larger one goes to the Pendent.
     
  11. Boswell

    Boswell United States Hobby Machinist since 2010 H-M Supporter-Premium

    Likes Received:
    87
    Trophy Points:
    28
    City:
    Cedar Park
    State:
    Texas

    -Return to Top-

    It should be IN #8 and yes it should be wired to your E-Stop and possibly Limit (not Home) switches. can't remember if the Limit Switches are just part of the E-Stop circuit or if they have their own circuit. You can test this quickly by manually depressing a Limit Switch, like the one on Z axis 2/3 of the way up the column. if one of the other LED's light then they are separate (this is a good thing). I think they are typically wired in series and because it is a Normaly Closed circuit, if any of the switches gets activated (OPENED) then it breaks the circuit and causes an E-STOP signal.

    Step 1. Be sure that Mach3 is looking for E-Stop on Pin 8. See the image I posted above to verify.

    Step 2. Disconnect the Pendent. Does this solve the issue ?

    Step 3. Disconnect the wire that is currently in I8. Jump I8 to ground. If the Emergency light goes out then you can be pretty sure that it is an E-Stop Switch or the wiring to and from it. I

    Step 4. Reconnect the wire in I8 and then access the back of the E-Stop switch. Visually inspect for damage or loose wires. Be sure the E-Stop switch is in the RUN position and then use a jumper to Jump across the switch. There should just be two wires going to the switch and you want to "connect" Them. If the Emergency LED goes out then you know the switch is bad.

    It is interesting that you circuit board is different from mine. Where does the smaller ribbon cable got to ? I assume the larger one goes to the Pendent.
     
  12. Boswell

    Boswell United States Hobby Machinist since 2010 H-M Supporter-Premium

    Likes Received:
    87
    Trophy Points:
    28
    City:
    Cedar Park
    State:
    Texas

    -Return to Top-

    duplicate post
     
  13. Jamespvill

    Jamespvill United States Active User Active Member

    Likes Received:
    13
    Trophy Points:
    18
    City:
    Royal City
    State:
    Washington

    -Return to Top-

    The limit switches are on a different LED's, so that's good.

    The Pendent took a short tumble when I first got the machine set up, it ended up in 3 or 4 seperate pieces so I decided I would get a higher quality one eventually and have never plugged it in. It was subsequently dismantled for the magnet and ironically, the E-stop on it...

    I don't have any wire running into I8, the angle of that picture makes it look so, but I8 is empty. I'm going to assume this may be the root of my problem?

    Both the ribbons run to a smaller board that I would have plugged my pendant into. The smaller one is labeled "MPG" and the larger "EXP".
     
  14. Boswell

    Boswell United States Hobby Machinist since 2010 H-M Supporter-Premium

    Likes Received:
    87
    Trophy Points:
    28
    City:
    Cedar Park
    State:
    Texas

    -Return to Top-

    Thanks Jimespvill. At this point you need to confirm where the estop button is wired to and confirm what port Mach3 thinks is the Estop circuit. Just because it is port 8 on my system does not mean that it is Port8 on yours. I would check the Mach3 config first and verify what port Mach3 is looking for the E-Stop, then chase down to see where the Estop is actually wired.

    My system does not have the breakout board and I only have a place to directly connect the pendent (that I don't use) I also got a better one.
     
  15. Jamespvill

    Jamespvill United States Active User Active Member

    Likes Received:
    13
    Trophy Points:
    18
    City:
    Royal City
    State:
    Washington

    -Return to Top-

    Whoohoo! Looks like my Estop is finally working! Followed your advice Boswell and pulled out the big-boy tools to track down the wire locations. Looks like my Estop port is I11. Which Is odd because I could have swore that my Estop worked when I first set up the machine and haven't changed anything since.

    Another odd thing is that It works backwards-- only when I set it to active low, otherwise it is on when I have it pushed in and Estop's when I pull it out.

    I sure do like my PM45CNC, but it has a lot of little quirks and idiosyncrasies! Although, perhaps I shouldn't be so quick to blame the machine, I am certainly not an experienced CNC owner. Either way, I'm learning quite a bit.

    Quick question though, So the wire coming from the Estop back the the main busbar (Green with all the cover plates, wrong word?) Is then swapped to stranded wire with each one going to a different port on the controller board. Is this so that It independently stops the X, Y, Z, and spindle motors? I ask because this confused me when I was testing for continuity to see where wires were going.

    Thanks for all the help Boswell!

    Fluke.JPG
     
  16. Boswell

    Boswell United States Hobby Machinist since 2010 H-M Supporter-Premium

    Likes Received:
    87
    Trophy Points:
    28
    City:
    Cedar Park
    State:
    Texas

    -Return to Top-

    Glad to hear that you got it working. Are you saying that one wire from the switch goes to I11 and only I11, The other wire goes to the terminal block where it is broken out to 4 different wires that go to which specific ports on the controller? I don't know, but I doubt that the signal needs to go to multiple places. One side of the switch should go to I11 and the other should either go to a voltage source, to ground or to another E-Stop switch if you have multiple but in any of the three cases it would only be 1 destination, not split to multiple ones. did you determine the connection via an ohm meter? If so you might test the connection to Ground. It could be that all these wires just have Ground in common and this would be the most likely connection for the other side of the E-Stop switch.

    The important part is that you have it working. I have not had to press the E-Stop on the Mill panel but a couple of times but I was glad it was there when I did.
     
  17. Jamespvill

    Jamespvill United States Active User Active Member

    Likes Received:
    13
    Trophy Points:
    18
    City:
    Royal City
    State:
    Washington

    -Return to Top-

    Hey Boswell,

    Here is a slightly accurate diagram of the Estop wires, colors not correct. I'll have to do some more checking with the ohm meter for grounded wire. Now I'm just curious. I like playing with electricity, but I lack far too much knowledge to call myself proficient in it in any way.

    I'm glad you've never had to use your E-stop! I've managed to snap two 3/8 endmills, and only attempted to use the E-stop during one of those, thus landing me here in this conversation. EstopWire.png
     
    totalyfrozen likes this.
  18. bpratl

    bpratl United States Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

    Likes Received:
    53
    Trophy Points:
    48
    City:
    Gloucester
    State:
    Massachusetts

    -Return to Top-

    James, that's a great looking control panel, very neat and well thought out. I would be embarrassed to show you mine. Bob
     
  19. Boswell

    Boswell United States Hobby Machinist since 2010 H-M Supporter-Premium

    Likes Received:
    87
    Trophy Points:
    28
    City:
    Cedar Park
    State:
    Texas

    -Return to Top-

    Just to be clear, I have crashed my Mill many time. Most of the time, it is easier to get to the E-Stop on the Mach3 screen than the big button on the switch box.

    As for you wiring. My assumption is that the terminal blocks are electrically connected from top to bottom. In other words, if a wire is connected to the screw on the top then it is electrically connected to any wire that is in the screw directly below it. This is a typical expectation for terminal blocks but I will go and check mine later today just to be sure.
    Based on that assumption

    Connections 1;2;3;10 are all connected together and then in turn connected to one side of the E-Stop switch ("From Estop"). You show that the wire labeled "To Estop" is not connected to anything. I goes to the bottom of the terminal block but there is no second wire on the same screw and there is no wire on the screw directly above. Not sure what to make of that.

    I would be curious if you go into Mach3 "Ports and Pins" config screens and look at the "Input" tab, do you see the entry for pins 1,2 & 3 ? What does Mach3 think these inputs are for?
    I don't think it would help for me to check mine as it is clear we have different controller boards.
     
  20. Boswell

    Boswell United States Hobby Machinist since 2010 H-M Supporter-Premium

    Likes Received:
    87
    Trophy Points:
    28
    City:
    Cedar Park
    State:
    Texas

    -Return to Top-

    one more thing. Be sure that you have removed power including the USB cable when you are using the ohm meter to check connectivity. :).
     
  21. Jamespvill

    Jamespvill United States Active User Active Member

    Likes Received:
    13
    Trophy Points:
    18
    City:
    Royal City
    State:
    Washington

    -Return to Top-

    Hey Bob, I can't take a single ounce of credit for the look of the control panel, the good folks overseas did all the work for me! It looks as though you converted your own CNC. You sir deserve some kudos, I certainly don't have the brass for that kind of undertaking. Regardless of how neat and tidy things are I'm impressed either way!
     
  22. Jamespvill

    Jamespvill United States Active User Active Member

    Likes Received:
    13
    Trophy Points:
    18
    City:
    Royal City
    State:
    Washington

    -Return to Top-

    I'm glad I'm not the only one crashing my mill like it's going out of style! :)(Okay, not really that much, just a few times)

    You are correct that the tops and bottoms of the terminal connectors are connected. I will get back to you on what mach thinks those ports are. Unfortunately today was a no-shop, all final exam preparation day.

    Guess what happened to my last cheapy ohm meter :rolleyes:
     
  23. jumps4

    jumps4 Global Moderator Staff Member Active Member

    Likes Received:
    180
    Trophy Points:
    63
    City:
    New Port Richey
    State:
    Florida

    -Return to Top-

    I just tried to clean up the duplicate posts at the end of this thread.
    there were 4
    2 that read exactly the same, and 2 that said just duplicate
    I clicked delete on the last item and it took all 4
    If I deleted your post Please re-post and I'm sorry
    this new software is a learning curve
    I think I'll wait until the bugs are worked out
    Steve
     
  24. Boswell

    Boswell United States Hobby Machinist since 2010 H-M Supporter-Premium

    Likes Received:
    87
    Trophy Points:
    28
    City:
    Cedar Park
    State:
    Texas

    -Return to Top-

    No worries. Thanks for all the work that you do for the forum !
     
  25. totalyfrozen

    totalyfrozen United States Steel Registered Member

    Likes Received:
    1
    Trophy Points:
    3
    City:
    Anchorage
    State:
    Alaska

    -Return to Top-

    Do you think this would work for a converted PM-45M? New to this and picked up one that was converted to CNC using the Gecko G540. Mach 3 runs, but when I am just trying to engrave lettering the machine engraves it way too large from what I did in inkscape.. in Aspire it will only do a couple of letters.. so was curious if there was some settings in Mach 3 that I was missing from what I installed from the xml file from gecko for mach3 .I am totally new to this if you havent already figured that out haha!
     
  26. Boswell

    Boswell United States Hobby Machinist since 2010 H-M Supporter-Premium

    Likes Received:
    87
    Trophy Points:
    28
    City:
    Cedar Park
    State:
    Texas

    -Return to Top-

    The configuration of Mach 3 (which is stored in the XML file) is very dependent on the Motion Control board, how the drive train is designed and other factors. So while you might save some time by STARTING with an established config (XML file) it would be unlikely that it will work without further modifications.
    Have you done any calibration tests where you use the MSI to input simple movement gcode and then measure that movement? In other words, if you issue a G0 X2.0 does it move exactly 2 inches (or cm)? Be sure you have also tested things like the E-STOP and hope switches to be sure they are working properly.
     
  27. totalyfrozen

    totalyfrozen United States Steel Registered Member

    Likes Received:
    1
    Trophy Points:
    3
    City:
    Anchorage
    State:
    Alaska

    -Return to Top-

    Thanks,
    Good point, I have not check to see if it travels in cm or inches. I will check that out tonight. E-STOP works. The Limit/Home switches where never setup got this second hand. I am working on those also.
     
  28. Boswell

    Boswell United States Hobby Machinist since 2010 H-M Supporter-Premium

    Likes Received:
    87
    Trophy Points:
    28
    City:
    Cedar Park
    State:
    Texas

    -Return to Top-

    Once you verify that you are in the correct units (inches vs cm) then if that does not resolve it
    And
    you have verified that G0 X2 moved 2 no more or less
    Then
    the I would look at the GCode for the engraving to verify if the issue is with the GCODE or the MILL. In other words, if you are expecting 1" tall letters but getting 2" tall letters then you need to be sure where the issue is, With the GCODE or with the MILL.
     
    totalyfrozen likes this.
  29. totalyfrozen

    totalyfrozen United States Steel Registered Member

    Likes Received:
    1
    Trophy Points:
    3
    City:
    Anchorage
    State:
    Alaska

    -Return to Top-

    Awesome thanks!
     
  30. damo green

    damo green United States Iron Registered Member

    Likes Received:
    2
    Trophy Points:
    3
    City:
    Colorado Springs
    State:
    Colorado

    -Return to Top-

    12,800 is dead on for me. By the way are these lead screws really ball screws? They look like delrin nuts to me....?
     

Share This Page