PM-1440GS or PM1340GT lathe or maybe a PM1440GT

Thanks dpb, that's exactly what I wanted to know.
 
It sounds like it's pretty close to the 1440b-ev. What is the difference for the extra 1k? I was looking at the b-ev but wonder if this might be a better choice.
 
Which machine are asking about we are talking about three different ones here?

It sounds like it's pretty close to the 1440b-ev. What is the difference for the extra 1k? I was looking at the b-ev but wonder if this might be a better choice.
 
The big thing to me is the gearbox style. It has very minimal gear changes which drew me to it. If you are interested in the PM1440GS email Matt and he will send you an Owners Manual attachment . If I hadn't decided to try to buy the 1440 Taiwanese version It was my choice.
 
Mark, Jay, or someone else with first hand experience. Matt has both three phase and single phase machines in stock at this moment. Wouldn't it be better, and perhaps cost less to buy a 3 phase machine to start with?

I have experience with the Lenze SMVector VFD on my mill. It works well and is made in the USA.

This may happen if I play my cards right.
 
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Mark, Jay, or someone else with first hand experience. Matt has both three phase and single phase machines in stock at this moment. Wouldn't it be better, and perhaps cost less to buy a 3 phase machine to start with?

I have experience with the Lense brand sensorless (is that right, I'll have to look) vector DRO on my mill. It works well and is made in the USA.

This may happen if I play my cards right.
I sent Matt an e-mail to get some info. The sooner I make up my mind and order the better! Haha!
Decisions decisions
 
If you are considering the PM1440GS they are due in June, per Matt. It seems like the best Chinese option going, to me.

I just decided to try to get a PM1440GT first.
 
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The lathe cost is the same for the PM single and 3 phase machines, on the 1440GT the single phase is 2Hp and the three phase is 3Hp. Either way, I recommend 3 phase in particular if you want to add a VFD. The difference in performance, features and surface finish is not trivial. Lathes are a bit different when it comes to VFD installs and how to integrate them into the machine. I am familiar with the Lenze SMV VFDs, but the programing and wiring has been worked out for the Hitachi WJ200. Matt sells the WJ200 and it is about $80 less expensive than something like the Lenze ESV222N02YXB, but I can help you either way. As previously mentioned, there is a very simple conversion process where you use the motor forward/reverse contactor to trigger the respective VFD inputs. This works well if the contactors are new and will act just like the stock machine with variable speed and controlled acceleration and braking. The one caveat is the foot brake, you can either use the mechanical brake but should add a dual pole limit switch, the second pole issues a coast command to the VFD, or the limit switch can be used to electronically stop the lathe. Normally you may not have both operational because the VFD has a programed deceleration which can fight the mechanical. I do have full system designs, this is what jbolt used, but it can be a bit overwhelming to start with.

It is a tough call between the three machines, the 1440's seem to be what you want. The 1440GT being about 25% more expensive with shipping. The 1440GS really has everything you want, but it will not have the user feel of the Taiwanese machines. It really will come down to how much more that is worth, and only you can determine that. All of them will be a huge step up from what you had. You will also need to factor in the additional tooling costs which can be significant. You might omit the preferred packaged and go a la carte on the accessories. I am a big advocate of the set-true type of chucks if you do any kind of repeat work or consider a high quality 4J independent or combo. Matt does sell the Taiwanese Chandox set-true chucks, which are less expensive than the Bison equivalent. You may also want to stock up on holders and few other items that you may want to package.
Mark
 
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Mark, Jay, or someone else with first hand experience. Matt has both three phase and single phase machines in stock at this moment. Wouldn't it be better, and perhaps cost less to buy a 3 phase machine to start with?

I have experience with the Lense brand sensorless (is that right, I'll have to look) vector DRO on my mill. It works well and is made in the USA.

This may happen if I play my cards right.

I would get the 3 phase and do the minimum setup to get going. You can add the whistles and bells later. My 1440gt came single phase and I ran it for a month or so before converting to 3 phase. My 3 phase motor is a 3hp Marathon, not a factory 3hp 3ph. Comparing the two, the factory 2hp single phase motor under powered. Marks trail blazing on the VFD conversions and his schematics and programming for the Hitachi make the setup pretty easy.

Starting with a 3 ph saves you the cost of a motor and sheave plus making a new mount. The Marathon motor I have was the only one I could find short enough to fit without modifying the back splash. It is larger in diameter than the factory motor making it necessary to modify the gear cover.

I kept the manual brake and changed out the kill switch to a DPDT to set the VFD to coast. I don't trust the VFD breaking to stop an 8" chuck at full speed in an emergency. The manual break does it very well. The electronic breaking is great for most everything else.
 
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