Pivot Locator/Radius Setting Tool for U3, D Bit Grinder

Beautifully done project. I also have the Shars grinder and have struggled with locating center accurately.
I'd love to have the drawings. Thanks.
Hi Larry,
I'd be happy to provide the working drawings for you, I have a lot to do today but I will get it ready to post this evening or first thing tomorrow morning.

Sorry for the late response, somehow missed the email notification on Saturday.

Thanks,

Joe
 
This is a really cool idea! I'm still wrapping my mind around this. I am still contemplating how to calibrate it. That is, find the exact pivot point, in order to make the tool accurate.
The smaller scale, z axis, parallel to the length of the tool, I take it you set that in the center for no radius, closer to the wheel for convex radii and away from the wheel for concave.
I too want to make very accurate half round nose or quarter round nose lathe tools.
Thanks for sharing this.
Yeah, it can definitely be confusing.
I had a hard time with it myself until I modeled it in Fusion 360 with slider and pivot joints.
The main purpose of the new pivot locating tool was to extend the pivot point of the knuckle up to the work head so I could set the radius point of the work piece without having to guess at it.

Now, the easiest way for me to use it is to picture everything as if it were on a flat plane from above to set the radius I want, then worry about the relief angles afterwards.

The main thing I have to remember is that the center point of the radius I want on the work piece "HAS" to be located directly above the pivot point of the knuckle under the work head.

I also have to remember that the radius point of a concave shape is located in the cutaway part of my work piece while the radius point of a convex shape is located in the part not being cutaway. That's the way I think of it anyway, maybe it will work for you too?

If it's a concave shape, the radius point and pivot point will be under the edge of the grinding wheel profile while the radius point and pivot point will be away from the edge of the grinding wheel profile for convex shapes.

The easiest way I know of to find the exact pivot point on the knuckle is to use a test indicator with a pointer type stylus mounted on a mag base and mounted to the table in front of the grinder, make sure the pointer is almost touching the knuckle near what appears to be the center point, then rotate the knuckle left and right while continuously moving the pointer until it is stationary on a single point on the casting of the knuckle while it is being rotated. I used that point as the datum for transferring measurements to the work head via gauge blocks.
After I made the tool, I used the test indicator again but this time on the tool to make sure the pivot point was on the inner corner of the block, then I done the "0" mark and other graduation marks. I hope that makes sense.

I hope this helps!

Joe
 
Thanks for your reply. I think you explained it well! Thanks for your time. Looking forward to seeing the working drawings you have.

My Shars grinder arrives tomorrow (hopefully). I have a lot to learn! I've been surfing the web, reading all I can and watching countless YouTube videos.

Dave
 
Beautifully done project. I also have the Shars grinder and have struggled with locating center accurately.
I'd love to have the drawings. Thanks.

Hi Larry,

I managed to get the drawings together along with an overview sheet for ya.

My original drawings were pretty basic since I had most of the design in my head, I didn't need much in the way of details for machining mine so I drew up some "As Built" drawings that have a lot more details for others to make one.

Hopefully all the details you need for making one for yourself are in the new drawings!!
Mine is Shars Brand, these drawings may work for other brand machines as well but I don't know that for sure.

The attached drawings are in PDF format and hopefully all 4 sheets are in the attachment!

BTW, I drew these at a 1:1 ratio which means that if they are printed at the correct ratio, you should be able to use them for templates as well.
I often glue a paper template to the material I intend to rough cut on a bandsaw, then just follow the template instead of having to draw everything out line by line. Of course that only works on parts small enough to print 1:1.

Most importantly, I hope you can make sense of the attached drawings, I'm sure they aren't exactly "Industry Standard", almost all of my drawings are for me to use in my shop so forgive me if they are difficult to read.

Feel free to let me know if you need further clarification!

Edit: The drawings are usually easier to read after they've been printed because the outline of the actual part is usually bold and darker than the measurement lines.

Best of luck,

Joe
 

Attachments

  • As Built Version of Pivot Locator Drawing v14.pdf
    333.7 KB · Views: 170
Great drawings! Thank you.

Something like your foam plug needs to be added to the gib on the tool grinder. Always have to remember to catch it.
 
Great drawings! Thank you.

Something like your foam plug needs to be added to the gib on the tool grinder. Always have to remember to catch it.

Yeah, I've dropped that gib a time or two myself, fortunately it just falls on the table instead of the floor.
I'm not too worried about it since it usually needs to be cleaned anyway.

You are very welcome!
Hopefully you will find the tool as useful as I have.

Have a great day!

Joe
 
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