Palmgren 8" x,y Rotary Table

Lenard

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I got a used rotary table and wonder if anyone can tell me why this is happening.
I set the table up with a work piece and when I clamp down onto the work, the rotary table locks up! Back off the work piece clamp nuts and turns very easy. Start tighten and again, it locks up. Where is the problem laying at?
Looking at it, it appears the table is going against the seat of the table.
Any help.
Thanks in advance
Lenard
 
Some of the Palmgren tables are pretty light duty. Do not torque down the clamp bolts so hard, and it will not distort as much. You may need to change to a setup that does not bend it from both sides of the table in the same curve. Are you using t-nuts in table t-slots?
 
No, using three T-nuts to secure the work piece. Don't even get a chance to make them tight. I can use my hand grip and lock the table just by squeezing it. Now the table is not even rocking. And that is removing the clamps and work piece.
I have taken the table top off and I suspect not enough clearance between the top and the outer circle seat. Thinking about making a shim for the center and raising the top. Sounds good anyway.
 
The tables not cracked is it ? Something's flexing to bind up that way.
 
No, done checked that. Unless I'm blind and can't see it, but have not found any type of cracks.
 
If you could post some pictures of your set up it would be helpful.
 
A couple of things to look for. First, the worm adjustment may not be locked down. Or if it is, it may be too tight in places on the worm gear. It's not the cleanest or best arrangement for a rotary table. Next, make sure the hold down or table locks are loose and not snug or tight. They will bind on you occasionally if your not careful. Also, if they are missing, the pieces under the top on the RT may still be there. And last, yeah, just like everyone else is saying the method of securing your part to the table is flexing the table top. The table top is so thin, it wouldn't take much to cause it to flex. It's expected from something from Palgrim.

My suggestion is get you a piece of aluminum plate about 7-8" square or diameter by about 3/4-1" thick. Machine it flat, unless it is tooling plate that has been ground flat, and mount at the outer edges with hold down bolts. Next drill and tap a field of holes on 1" x 1" grid on the plate. This will allow you bolt down just about anything with out worrying about the table top flexing. Plus, if you bugger up the surface of the sub table, you can re surface it or replace with a fresh top. Ken
 
A couple of things to look for. First, the worm adjustment may not be locked down. Or if it is, it may be too tight in places on the worm gear. It's not the cleanest or best arrangement for a rotary table. Next, make sure the hold down or table locks are loose and not snug or tight. They will bind on you occasionally if your not careful. Also, if they are missing, the pieces under the top on the RT may still be there. And last, yeah, just like everyone else is saying the method of securing your part to the table is flexing the table top. The table top is so thin, it wouldn't take much to cause it to flex. It's expected from something from Palgrim.

My suggestion is get you a piece of aluminum plate about 7-8" square or diameter by about 3/4-1" thick. Machine it flat, unless it is tooling plate that has been ground flat, and mount at the outer edges with hold down bolts. Next drill and tap a field of holes on 1" x 1" grid on the plate. This will allow you bolt down just about anything with out worrying about the table top flexing. Plus, if you bugger up the surface of the sub table, you can re surface it or replace with a fresh top. Ken
 
Thanks Ken.
I kept messing with it all day and finally made a shim spacer to go under the table. Got it to working and finished my project Overall, the table was already rubbing the seat of the table where the lock tabs are at. Don't know how it had no clearance but that was the trouble. After installing the shim, the table was not flexing and held the work piece in place. I do like the idea about adding a surface plate/face. Or either that, or replace the worn out unit.
Thank you for your help on this. I just don't give up and will make it work, somehow - lol. Thanks again.
 
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