Old Speedway Mill.

I actually found a 3/8"-16 x 10-3/4" drawbar at www.littlemachineshop.com that looks like it might fit. Unfortunately I don't have a lathe so I can't turn my own. It was only $18 so if it doesn't work it's not the end of the world. Good suggestion about the rear cover to keep the chips out, I'll put that on my to do list for the weekend. Which collets did you wind up using? I saw somebody suggest ER20 with MT2 taper. I did see a few on Amazon that seemed to fit the M10 drawbar, just curious what you're using on the 3/8"?
 
Sometimes you just run into a deal you can't pass up.
This mill was sitting in a garage in the corner with cobwebs over it so I had to ask about it. The owner said he bought it new many years ago to make parts for his motorcycles, but after finding out how much the tooling would cost he just forgot about it, drilled a few holes with it for a while then used his regular drill press instead.
I noticed it still was caked with the dried out packing grease and there was some staining but it didn't look like rust. He said; "Give me 100 bucks and it's yours". I did.

Model# DTMACH 34/03989. Speedway Series. No Serial# as far as I know.

As with any new machine, I took it apart, cleaned it up and lubed it, adjusted it, improved some finishes and fit. I didn't like the orange/red cracked paint.

I have no idea how old it really is. The owner must have told me, but I don't remember and information on this mill is almost completely absent. But being it is still a mill in like new condition, I guess that doesn't matter.

It uses 2MT. Is 3/4 HP. 2 Belt, 12 speed, 1/2" milling, 1.5" face milling. Speeds- 3,950- 390 rpm.
Runs very quiet and smooth. I have collets and a vise on the way.

Any other info or opinions are welcome. Don't worry, I know it isn't a best brand.


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Anybody know if you can replace the chuck with a collet? If so how do you remove the chuck. I remove the bolt that holds it but have had no success removing the chuck.
 
I will assume if it is MT2 then if you extend the quill down there will be a slot in the side that you can put a wedge in to pop the drill chuck or whatever is in the quill. The bolt ( drawbar ) is there to positively retain the tool in the quill, it is needed in a milling type situation.
 
I will assume if it is MT2 then if you extend the quill down there will be a slot in the side that you can put a wedge in to pop the drill chuck or whatever is in the quill. The bolt ( drawbar ) is there to positively retain the tool in the quill, it is needed in a milling type situation.
Thank you. Its not an MT2. But I will look at that nonetheless .
 
Those slots for wedges are common on drill-press spindels, but less common on mills.
Some mills require you to leave the draw-bar threads engaged, but slack and tap the end of the draw bar with a mallet.
That pushes out the collet.
Most of my draw-bars are plain all-thread, so I use a long coupler nut on the top end to avoid damaging the threads.

-brino
 
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The PDF manual in post #27 or 28 shows both a wedge and drawbar. Either way between brino and tweinke suggestions you should succeed if you have one of these speedway units.
don't give up !
 
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